Appalachian Trail -1986
In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.
Appalachian Trail - Day 112
Date: Friday, 22 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 7.2
Daily Other Miles: 5.2
Total AT Miles: 2145.3
Total All Miles: 2208.5
Weather: Warm, cloudy and first, windy.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Burgers, fries, ice-cream.
Dinner: ?
Aches: Left Achilles.
Animals Seen: 4 moose.
People Seen: 16 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
We got up at 5am after a bad night’s sleep. Jerry had been tossing and turning most of the night and shaking the whole shelter. It had rained most of the night but had now stopped. We set off at 6:20am to walk to Katahdin – our last day on the Trail. We were both quite excited, though we knew we had a tough climb in front of us. In the first couple of miles the clouds started clearing and the scenery was beautiful – lakes, forests and Katahdin (still cloud-covered). We surprised a cow moose and calf at very close range, but didn’t have time to get the camera out, and saw another couple of moose at a distance feeding in a lake. We reached Katahdin Stream Campground at 7:10am (Barb and I had camped there before) and began the big, our last, ascent. The Trail gradually became steeper and steeper, and the rocks became boulders. We had both decided to take out full packs up, even though we didn’t need them (we were returning the same way later in the day), and this made the climbing very tricky in parts. As we got higher the temperature became cooler and there was a biting strong wind. We got into the clouds a few times, but they seemed to be breaking up as we went and we also got some good views. Eventually, we reached the mountain’s summit plateau and walked 1½ miles across its rocky surface gradually, and then more steeply, up to the summit (5260’). We collected some spring water en route for a summit toast. It was very cold, though we were only lightly clad – shorts, T-shirts,Goretex rain jackets. We reached the fog-covered summit at 10:15am and the Trail was officially finished. We hung around for a while, toasting each other, eating a snack and picture-taking, before leaving at 11am. It was too cold to stay longer but, between breaks in the clouds, we’d got superb views in all directions, so couldn’t complain. The views continued throughout our descent above the tree-line – the pack still making boulder-hopping difficult. Below the tree-line we were becoming weary and knees and feet were hurting. We wanted to finish. At 1:40pm, we arrived at Katahdin Stream Campground. At the Ranger Office we found the AT Register and made our final entries. I went for a quick swim in the absolutely freezing pond – much to the delight of a number of onlookers – and changed into clean (relatively) clothes. Jerry asked a guy with a pick-up about a lift to Millinocket and the guy said he could give us a lift to the main road, which he did. There, we only waited a few minutes before getting another lift into Millinocket – right to the door of a motel (with a stop at the Post Office for Jerry). We checked in at 3:45pm and spent a relaxing rest of the day eating, watching TV and talking. Rang Barb and found a bus went from Medway, 11 miles away, next morning at 9am. Went to bed at 11:15pm. [Next day, I hitched to Medway and caught two buses back to Boston where I stayed with my aunt, Marj, until I flew back to Australia a week later.]
Appalachian Trail - Day 111
Date: Thursday, 21 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 21.9
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2138.1
Total All Miles: 2196.1
Weather: Mild, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: ??
Dinner: Hot dogs, baked beans, macaroni cheese, apple pie, chips.
Aches: Left Achilles sore.
Animals Seen: Moose, chipmunks.
People Seen: 1 AT Thru-hiker (southbound), 6 overnight hikers, 4 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5am to what promised to be a beautiful day. We packed up and left our lovely spot at 6:30am and hiked upstream to a nearby lake. As we walked around the shore in the early morning sunlight, Jerry spotted a big bull moose out in the middle of the lake which was covered on the surface by a light mist. It was a beautiful scene and I wished I had the zoom lens. We took some pictures and walked around the shore on the Trail getting quite close before he heard us and took off. It seemed a good omen. We pressed on along the Trail, which was never easy going – always twisting and turning, going up and down small bumps and hills, covered by exposed tree roots and rocks, and occasionally boggy. It was a real test for the legs, ankles and feet. It passed along the shore of Rainbow Lake for five miles before climbing up on to the Rainbow Ledges. It was a excellent day and we had good views in all directions. The crest of Katahdin still had a cover of cloud, however. The descent from the Ledges to Hurd Brook Lean-To was tortuous. We had a break before continuing on more tough trail. We were both wishing it was over. At about 1:30pm, we reached Abol Bridge Campground and its small store. We bought a big lunch and sat outside in the sun eating and watching the logging trucks roll by. We decided to buy some extra food for our last night on the Trail and got some hot dogs, baked beans, chips, cans of drink, fruit pies and cookies. We left at 2:30pm for the last 7½ miles to our target of Daicey pond Campground. The Trail was easy at first, following old logging trails and some flat land upstream along thePenobscot River, which was quite wide. We saw a couple of big rafts with tourists floating downstream. The Trail then left the river and followed a large stream upstream and became more difficult. The stream was pretty, with a number of big cascades and flumes and inviting swimming holes on a warm afternoon. We were both tired and looking forward to getting to the Campground. The Trail crossed a number of tributaries on testing logs and saplings, but neither of us fell in. We reached the Campground at 5:30pm on the shores of a beautiful pond with Katahdin in the background (top still cloud-covered). We paid for a shelter and had a very pleasant evening eating our goodies, chatting with a southbound, by sections, AT Hiker, and reflecting on the trip. Rain was forecast overnight, clearing tomorrow. We went to bed at 8:30pm after deciding to go tomorrow, regardless of the weather (Katahdin weather can be very dangerous, even in summer). Almost as soon as we went to bed, it began raining. There were mozzies and mice in the shelter.
Appalachian Trail - Day 110
Date: Wednesday, 20 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 24.4
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2116.2
Total All Miles: 2174.2
Weather: Warm, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, candy bars.
Dinner: Noodles, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Pheasant, 3 snakes, 2 moose.
People Seen: 10 overnight hikers.
Journal:
Got up at 5am after a good night’s sleep and set out at 6:30am for Potaywadjo Spring Hut, six miles away. The skies were relatively clear so we were hopeful of a better day. The Trail continued through mossy forest with an incredible variety of mushrooms and toadstools – all shapes, sizes and colours – as had been the case the last few days. The Trail was rough, boggy in parts, and covered in roots. At Potaywadjo Spring Lean-To there was a magnificent spring with bubbling sand as the water (cold and clear) bubbled up. We then decided to go for Wadleigh Stream Lean-To for lunch in two sections. The Trail conditions remained the same and it passed by some more beautiful lakes. At one point, the Trail actually went along the narrow rocky shore of the lake. I slipped into the water twice. We had lunch at about 1:40pm at the pleasant Lean-To. Jerry was having a lot of trouble with one of his boots that was falling apart, and was tying it together with string and tape but it kept coming apart under the strain of the rough Trail. We only had eight miles to our target shelter, Rainbow Stream Lean-To, but were both tired and weren’t looking forward to the miles which included Mount Nesuntabunt (~2000’), the last mountain before Katahdin. Jerry seemed to have decided he was going to accompany me to the end. I would have preferred to hike alone but don’t want to be rude and he’s a likeable bloke – we get on OK. We set out up the mountain and stopped at the top for a great view of the forests, lakes and Mount Katahdin (the northern end of the AT) for the first time. The summit was covered in cloud. We descended from the mountain to Crescent Pond and, as we were walking along the edge, Jerry spotted a moose feeding in the shallows about 30 yards offshore. We both got pictures before it was scared off. We then saw it had a calf with it. The last four miles dragged, but we eventually reached the pretty shelter by the stream in a little valley. We had it to ourselves. I had a double portion of noodles (because I hadn’t cooked the two previous nights) and, after dinner, enjoyed two cups of hot chocolate whilst musing over the trip and its looming end. I felt a bit melancholy. Went to bed at about 9pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 109
Date: Tuesday, 19 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 23.4
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2091.8
Total All Miles: 2149.8
Weather: Mild, rain in the morning, overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, candy bars.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding, candy bars.
Aches: Crutch chafing.
Animals Seen: 2 moose, pheasant.
People Seen: 13 overnight hikers.
Journal:
Got up at 5am and left at 6:30am thinking that, if I got a good run, I might make the 29 miles to Potaywadjo Spring Shelter. There was a fine drizzle and fog as I set off up the slippery Trail towards the summit of Whitecap Mountain (3600’). A lot of wet undergrowth was overhanging the Trail and I was soon soaked through. The going was very slow and it took me 3½ hours of solid walking to reach Logan Brook Lean-To, seven miles away, where I had my first break. There were no views from the bleak summit of Whitecap Mountain. In the shelter was Kacy (and boyfriend), the solo girl hiker I’d just missed catching in the Green Mountains in Vermont. She had since skipped New Hampshire! I pressed on down the mountain making slightly better progress and took another break next to a pretty pond after another 5½ miles. During the break, Jerry caught me. We’d said good-bye this morning as he hadn’t been going to go as far as me today, but had obviously changed his mind. We walked another three miles along a boggy and sometimes hilly Trail through mossy forest to a lake where we had lunch at about 2pm. We then walked on to the very attractive Cooper Brook Falls Lean-To and were tempted to stay, but I wanted to push on so as to be in a position to reach Dacey Pond, at the base of Katahdin, by Thursday night. After another five miles, we stopped in a damp, almost swampy, area near a spring and set up our tents. Wet wood so I had another cold dinner. Today was a bit of a trudge and I’m looking forward to finishing. Went to bed at 8:15pm and updated my diary in the tent.
Appalachian Trail - Day 108
Date: Monday, 18 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 16.6
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2068.4
Total All Miles: 2126.4
Weather: Mild, raining in the morning, overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Burgers, fries, ice-cream.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding, Mars Bar.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Squirrels.
People Seen: 7 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5am and left at 6:20am after it had rained heavily during the night and was forecast to rain again during the day. I had 10½ miles to do by 11am to meet the Cocks’ family as arranged. It seemed to be an easy task, but the rough Trail and wet slippery conditions slowed progress considerably. After an hour it began to rain steadily and soon I was soaked through. The forest was mossy and pretty, but cloud and rain prevented any views. I eventually reached the St Regis Paper Company Logging Road, where I was to meet the Cocks’, in light rain and 55 minutes late. They weren’t there, but there seemed nothing to do but wait. I sat on a bridge in the drizzle and ate my gorp, wet, but not unhappy. After 30 minutes, the Cocks’ arrived. It was good to see them all. They suggested we drive into a nearby town and eat at a restaurant out of the rain, so I hid my pack and joined them (still soaking wet) in their Volvo. We drove about 18 miles to Brownville Junction where we found a really nice diner and had a very pleasant hour chatting and catching up on news – me still in my raincoat. At about 2:30pm, we left and they drove me back to the Trail where I resumed walking at 3pm and they set off for the long drive back to Boston. It was still over 13 miles to go to my target Shelter, but there was one six miles away so I decided to go there non-stop and see how the time was. It had stopped raining, but everything was soaking wet and a number of streams had to be forded. There was also a new “relo”, which slowed things a little, but I reached the Shelter, Carl Newhall, at 5:20pm to find Jerry and another hiker there already. It would be too late to try for the next Shelter, so I decided on an early night.
Appalachian Trail - Day 107
Date: Sunday, 17 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 22.6
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2051.8
Total All Miles: 2109.8
Weather: Warm, very humid, partly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Eggs, pancakes, orange juice.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: 10 overnight hikers, 5 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
I got up at 6:15am and after breakfast (big!) left Monson at about 7:40am. Geoff and Jerry left with me and we all did the long road-walk out of town followed by a climb up on to a ridge on new trail. The going was slow, but the forest was pretty and the Trail passed a number of attractive lakes. Geoff dropped behind. The Trail passed by Little Wilson Falls which were very pretty and followed by the first ford of the day. The Trail then dropped off the ridge back onto a road and we had about five miles of road-walking, some of it in hot sun on a very humid day. We reached the point where the Trail left the road and immediately had to ford Long Pond Stream. We had lunch on the opposite bank at about 3pm while socks and feet dried, before leaving at 4pm to climb up 2000+’ Barren Mountain in very hot conditions. There were some good, but hazy, views on the way up. Once over the peak, the Trail descended and I reached Cloud Pond Lean-To at about 6:15pm. It only had a dirt floor, but was in a very attractive setting by a lake. Jerry arrived shortly after me, and Geoff at about 8:15pm. It had begun to rain at about 7:45pm, and got heavier. I blew out my candle soon after 9pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 106
Date: Saturday, 16 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 9.0
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2029.2
Total All Miles: 2087.2
Weather: Some rain, mostly fine.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, eggs, toast, orange juice.
Lunch: Burger, fries, ice-cream.
Dinner: Steak, vegetables, cake, ice-cream.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: 2 AT Thru-hikers, 1 AT Hiker (southbound, by sections), 5 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5am and packed and ate quickly and left at 6:15am, just after a brief shower of rain. It was very gloomy. I decided to just walk the nine miles into Monson non-stop and hopefully get there early enough to ring both Marj and Barb. The Trail through the forest was mainly on old logging tracks and was wet and boggy, but there were long sections on the road where I could keep the pace going. I got into the outskirts of Monson, on a big lake, at about 9:15am and immediately found Shaw’s Boarding House, where I planned to stay. I went in and the diminutive operator, Keith (and his wife, Patty), told me I was in time for breakfast and could make my calls from their phone. I checked in, had my big breakfast, rang Marj (ticket had arrived) and Barb before having a shower. I then went downtown, collected my mail and did my shopping. Among others at the hostel were Jerry (who I had hiked with in New Jersey, and who was apparently waiting in Monson for me to catch up) and “Shutterbug” (Geoff). We went down to the only restaurant in town for lunch and I read my mail. It included a letter fromSyntec painting a less-rosy picture of the job they were proposing to me. I was a bit annoyed, but not surprised. During the afternoon I ate, watched baseball on TV, read the paper and did my laundry. Also in residence was Bob Barker, an MS sufferer, and an insufferable bore. After dinner I went for a walk around town with Jerry and Geoff before returning to watch TV until retiring about 10:30pm. During the day, Bo had rung to say they would meet me on Monday for lunch.