In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.

Appalachian Trail - Day 059

Day:  059
Date:  Monday, 30 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  25.7
Daily Other Miles:  0.4 (0.2 spring, 0.2 campsite)
Total AT Miles:  1160.1
Total All Miles:  1196.3
Weather:  Mild, partly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  Feet and back sore (chafing).
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, rabbit, groundhog.
People Seen:  AT trail crew (2), 5 overnight hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am and, for some reason, took a long time to get going.  Left at 7:40am.  However, I seemed to cover the miles quickly in the first session which passed through pleasant woods and the remains of an old mining area and the site of the Rausch Gap settlement.  After that, the AT descended to meet a road and then followed various roads for two or three miles – quite populated.  The weight of my pack is beginning to tell on my feet which are excessively sore and I feel tired generally. After crossing under the I-81 several times, the AT climbed back up onto another ridge.  Some of the climb was rocky, as was the Trail along the crest.  There were some views out across the closely farmed valley to the east.  I stopped for lunch at Blue Mountain campsite, having covered a good 18½ miles in the morning (till 2:30pm).  It began spitting while I lunched.  I continued on after an hour’s break with full water bottles.  My pace slowed and I felt very tired (sore feet).  There were also some long difficult rocky stretches.  It took until 7pm to reach Hertlein campsite only seven miles from lunch.  Very slow and I’m a bit concerned I’m overdoing it – 25 miles again tomorrow.  The campsite was quite nice and I had a quick dinner, etc., and got into my tent at 9:10pm.  Rain is forecast.  During the day, I remembered I hadn’t addressed the card sent to Clio.  Tonight is one when I would rather be home.

Appalachian Trail - Day 058

Day:  058
Date:  Sunday, 29 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.1
Daily Other Miles:  0.4 (0.2 to AT, 0.2 store)
Total AT Miles:  1134.4
Total All Miles:  1170.2
Weather:  Hot, humid, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Eggs and bacon, chocolate milk, ice-cream.
  Lunch:  None.
  Dinner:  Chicken and noodles, pop tarts.
Aches:  Sore hips and feet.
Animals Seen:  Deer, squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen:  AT trail crew (2), 16 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 7:20am and went downstairs for a nice, but small, bacon and eggs breakfast cooked by Mr Doyle himself and eaten at the bar.  At 8:20am I collected my pack and started walking.  It was already very warm and humid and forecast to get hotter, my pack was very heavy (6 days food and 3 full water bottles), and there was the prospect of a tough climb up onto the ridge followed by six days rock scrambling (the dreaded Pennsylvania section).  I was a bit low and on the way out of town decided to give Barb a call.  We had a good chat and I followed it with a quart of chocolate milk and a pint of ice-cream.  My spirits rose a little and I crossed the mighty Susquehanna River and began the steep, though not all that long, climb.  As usual, it had taken me a longer time to get out of town than expected and the prospect of the planned 23 miles and a late finish did not thrill me.  It took me a long time to cover the first five miles but it was cooler on the ridge and not rocky all of the time and I began to speed up.  There were occasional good views over the Pennsylvania farmland and, despite my heavy load, things were OK after all.  I met a few families out day hiking.  I wasn’t exactly starved after a lot of eating yesterday so gave lunch a miss and reached the site of the old Yellow Springs village, my goal, at about 7:40pm.  It was pleasant spot and I found a good campsite.  I hastily attended to all my chores and managed to get a cooked meal, wash, etc., in while listening to BBC shows on National Public Radio.  Not such a bad evening and I was pleased to have covered the scheduled distance with the heavy pack.  There were deer around the campsite as well as fireflies.  I got into the tent at 9:40pm and updated the diary before going to sleep at 10pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 057

Day:  057
Date:  Saturday, 28 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  10.1
Daily Other Miles:  0.4 (around town)
Total AT Miles:  1111.3
Total All Miles:  1146.7
Weather:  Hot, humid, rain in the morning.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Mars bar, two health bars.
  Lunch:  Sub, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Pizza, ice-cream.
Aches:  None.
Animals Seen:  Deer.
People Seen:  Trail workers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a not particularly good night’s sleep – too hot.  It was raining a bit when I got up, but the tree was good protection and nothing was really wet.  I started walking at 6:25am after a breakfast of a Mars Bar.  Surprisingly, I wasn’t as thirsty as I expected.  I decided to head for Thelma Marks Shelter, 5½ miles away, and, if hungry, have breakfast there.  It began raining quite heavily as the Trail crossed some pleasant open fields and country roads before entering the forest and climbing up steadily to another very rocky ridge – the notorious Pennsylvania rocks.  I reached the Thelma Marks Shelter turn-off at 8:30am but, seeing it was ¼ mile away, decided against going down.  Had a couple of health bars instead and a 15 minute break.  The next four miles into Duncannon involved more of the rocky ridge before a rocky descent which, at one point, gave an excellent view over Duncannon and the Susquehanna River.  It looked a bit like Hannibal on the Missouri.  On the last part of the descent I met a crew clearing vegetation from the Trail – much appreciated.  I reached Duncannon at 10am and, after visiting the Post Office, checked into the old but quaint Doyles Hotel ($7.40 per night!).  After a bath, I did my shopping and laundry and mailed cards to Delaware Water Gap Post Office and Clio before picking up a big “sub” for a late lunch.  During the day, Gordon, Paul and Tommy turned up and checked in, as well as Paul’s girlfriend, Kathy, from Washington DC.  I spent the afternoon watching baseball on TV and writing letters and diary.  At 8pm, the five of us went to a nearby pizza joint where we shared two huge pizzas.  Afterwards, I got an ice-cream and returned to the hotel lounge to watch another baseball game.  At 11pm I returned to my room and finished packing my food and then my pack.  It took longer than I expected (as always) and it was nearly 1am before I got to bed.  Slept quite well though.

Appalachian Trail - Day 056

Day:  056
Date:  Friday, 27 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  28.1
Daily Other Miles:  1.0 (0.2 shelter, 0.8 spring)
Total AT Miles:  1101.2
Total All Miles:  1136.2
Weather:  Hot, humid, mostly sunny, a little rain in the late afternoon.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Soup, salad, dessert (All You Can Eat)
  Dinner:  None.
Aches:  Sore feet.
Animals Seen:  Deer, 2 snakes, squirrels, tortoise.
People Seen:  1 AT Hiker (by sections), 1 overnight hiker, 1 day hiker, many others.

Journal:
I got up at 6am and left at 7:20am for what promised to be a long day including the famous Cumberland Valley 10+ mile road walk which I was looking forward to.  I said good-bye to Kent and Sandy, and Paul.  The Trail was easy going at first and I made good progress.  However, later there were some relocations which took the Trail up on some very rocky ridges and the going became very slow.  It also got very hot.  I was walking 5 mile stretches between breaks because I wanted to reach a Carlisle Truck Stop for a late lunch.  After about 12 miles the Trail descended to the road and I began the road walk.  There was a fierce sun and I was a bit worried about it blazing down on the back of my neck.  However, as the day wore on, the haze got thicker, eventually turning into cloud, and the sun ceased to be a problem.  After I’d walked about 4 miles through the pleasing rural countryside, I reached the small village of Churchtown and found Paul sitting under a tree.  He had taken some short-cuts again – a little tedious.  He then proceeded to follow me along the road about 100 yards behind.  There was supposed to be a lady living along the road who gave ice-creams to AT hikers but, when we found her house, she wasn’t home.  I pressed on along the road walking the 4 miles to the truckstop in an hour – amazing how much quicker the pace is along the road.  Paul fell behind, but not until after we caught two other hikers, Gordon and Tommy, the former completing the AT after starting last year and the latter out for two weeks.  I was first at the truckstop but was later joined by the other three and we all ate big on the All You Can Eat soup, salad and dessert.  It was good.  Paul and I left there at 4:45pm for the 7 miles to Darlington Shelter.  The first 3 or 4 miles were mainly on roads but then the Trail climbed steadily and very rockily to a ridge.  It began raining lightly.  I reached the Shelter at 7:15pm and set out on the long overgrown walk (about ¼ mile) down to the spring.  It had stopped flowing and the water looked bad.  I cursed not having filled my water bottles at the truckstop.  I drank my two cans of Coke before setting off further down the Trail (1.7 miles) to a supposed spring and campsite.  I met Paul coming into the Shelter.  He decided to stay there.  I reached the campsite at 8:30pm but couldn’t get to the water because of poison ivy so just put up my tent (40% chance of rain) and went to bed hot (it was still 80°F), a bit thirsty, but not particularly hungry.  It took me a long time to get to sleep.

Appalachian Trail - Day 055

Day:  055
Date:  Thursday, 26 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.2
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (shelter)
Total AT Miles:  1073.1
Total All Miles:  1107.1
Weather:  Warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Two meat rolls, ½ gallon ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, corn chips, pop tarts.
Aches:  Bruised left heel.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, turkeys, snake.
People Seen:  2 AT Thru-hikers, 6 overnight hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am and left at 7:20am to reach Pine Grove Furnace State Park for lunch, 17 miles away.  As was the case yesterday, it looked like a good day for hiking – a little warmer perhaps – and the terrain was easy – undulating hills and mostly even trail though there were a few rocky bits.  I seem to have bruised my left heel a bit, though it wasn’t too bad – hope it doesn’t get worse.  I made good time through the wooded country and reached Toms Run Shelters at 13½ miles soon after noon. There I met two groups totalling six overnight hikers and Paul from three nights ago – the % of AT hitch-hikers increases!  He was looking for a friend who I hadn’t seen.  I talked for a while before setting off for the 3½ miles to Pine Grove Furnace State Park.  I arrived there at 1:30pm and found the General Store close to the historic youth hostel.  I went into the old store and was persuaded by the pretty and flirtatious manageress, Renee, to buy lunch there instead of the snack bar ¼ of a mile away.  I bought two “torpedoes” – large meat rolls – then she told me about the half gallon club.  AT hikers try to eat a ½ gallon of ice-cream as quickly as possible.  I promised to return, bought a few groceries, and she gave me yesterday’s newspaper.  I adjourned to the large verandah and ate lunch reading the paper at a table – very pleasant.  Two AT Thru-hikers, Sandy and Kent, were there too.  I got my half-gallon of ice-cream and ate it without any trouble.  Renee then made me climb the wall to stick my certificate in place.  I left soon after 3pm for the seven mile hike up to Tagg Run Shelters.  There were a few rocky bits and the country is drier.  I reached the Shelters at 5:45pm and crossed the HALF-WAY MARK just before turning off to them. Paul turned up an hour later, and Sandy and Kent a little after that.  Plenty of time to relax after a lot of miles but a comfortable day.

Appalachian Trail - Day 054

Day:  054
Date:  Wednesday, 25 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.2
Daily Other Miles:  0.3
Total AT Miles:  1049.0
Total All Miles:  1082.7
Weather:  Mild, sunny – perfect.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, two health bars.
  Dinner:  Noodles and chicken, instant pudding, chips, Pepsi.
Aches:  Tired feet.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, rabbits.
People Seen:  6 overnight hikers, 4 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am after a good night’s sleep and left at 7:20am, bidding farewell to my colleagues.  It was cool and looked to be set for a nice day for hiking.  The first 5 miles incorporated a lot of clambering over rocks and progress was slow.  During my first break I was caught by KC and one of the CC.  Both were headed for the Raccoon Run Shelters at 20 miles whilst I was aiming for Quarry Gap at 24 miles.  It showed again that my hiking speed wasn’t faster than the others it was just that I could comfortably go on longer.  I reached the Mason-Dixon Line (Pennsylvania border) at the same time and got KC (a nice guy – they all were) to take my picture.  The first few miles in Pennsylvania were a composite of many old trails and was difficult to follow and badly marked.  I had to stop three times to get the guidebook out – can’t remember the last time I had to refer to one.  After those first few miles, it settled down and passed through pretty woodlands with no tough grades though occasional rocky sections.  On the whole it was pleasant hiking.  I saw KC twice more.  At a break, two scouts (~13 years old) came the other way and couldn’t understand a word I said.  I decided to try and get to Caledonia State Park before 5pm so that I could visit the snack bar reported to be there.  This required a few longer sections and a 30 minute lunch.  En route, I passed Raccoon Run Shelters and found KC and CC (one of) in residence.  They had walked the roads!  My guess is that 70% of AT Thru-hikers take short-cuts and walk roads fairly frequently (with 5% hitching bits).  Each to his own.  I got to the State Park at 4:45pm.  It’s strange going into these Parks where people are picnicking and playing (and camping, etc.) as Barb and I had been doing three months ago.  You feel like a visitor from outer space.  I had a salad roll, two ice-creams and two Pepsis and some chips to accompany dinner.  It was very pleasant sitting in the sun eating these with only 2½ miles to go to the Shelter.  I even saw a jogger when entering the Park.  I left the picnic area at 5:30pm and, after a short sharp climb and an easy walk (with a stop to collect water ¼ mile before the Shelter), I reached it at 6:20pm.  I’m getting efficient at setting up, washing and cooking and, by 7:35pm, I had eaten main course.  There were no other occupants, it was a nice spot, a nice evening, and a picnic table – perfect end to a good day.

Appalachian Trail - Day 053

Day:  053
Date:  Tuesday, 24 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.9
Daily Other Miles:  0.6 (shelters)
Total AT Miles:  1024.8
Total All Miles:  1058.2
Weather:  Warm, humid, rain in the morning, mostly cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter.
  Dinner:  Noodles, pop tarts.
Aches:  Sore behind right knee.
Animals Seen:  Chipmunks, squirrels, rabbits.
People Seen:  6 AT Thru-hikers, 20 overnight hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am to steady rain and packed up slowly.  Chainsaw, who had joined us during the night’s thunderstorm, left in the rain at 7am.  I left at 7:30am just as it stopped.  The Trail followed a broad ridge which didn’t offer views but was basically easy going, though wet weeds and brambles and some rocky bits made life unpleasant.  Paul caught and passed me though I passed him again later.  The Trail passed by the Dahlgren Campground for hikers only (free hot showers), but I didn’t stop.  I met Melissa there, who was hiking most of the AT.  She was with T-Turf when I met them later (they took a short-cut) at the Washington Monument (1827’) which gave good views over the countryside.  Chainsaw was also there.  I walked steadily for the remainder of the day, stopping for a 2:30pm lunch.  The Trail continued to follow a ridge – dropping down to cross roads in passes every so often.  My feet weren’t so bad today.  I reached Devils Racecourse Shelter at 6:25pm and found 4 AT Thru-hikers already in residence – the Connecticut Connection (3 guys) and Kid Charlemagne.  They squeezed up to make room for me.  I got a fire going despite damp wood, had dinner, caught up the diary, and got into bed by about 9pm.  The boys told me about the “flasher” they had met on the Trail before Harpers Ferry and how the guy had been arrested.  I’d heard about it in Harpers ferry too.

Appalachian Trail - Day 052

Day:  052
Date:  Monday, 23 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  17.4
Daily Other Miles:  2.5 (0.2 to ATCHQ, 2.0 to store, 0.3 to shelter)
Total AT Miles:  999.9
Total All Miles:  1032.7
Weather:  Hot humid, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Egg and bacon pie, muffins, burger, ice-cream.
  Lunch:  Hot dog, beans, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Muesli, muffins.
Aches:  Sore toes on both feet.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, turtles.
People Seen:  4 AT Thru-hikers, 1 day hiker, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am after a reasonable sleep on a hot night.  I packed up and was underway by 7:15am.  It was already warm and humid and the day was forecast to be hot.  It took me until 9:20am to reach Harpers Ferry and the Appalachian Trail Conference Headquarters after crossing the Shenandoah River.  Goodbye Virginia.  They let me use the office phone to ring Barb, which I did.  Not a great call because neither of us had much news and the line wasn’t great (I couldn’t shout because of the office staff).  While in the office, I met Chainsaw (so-named because of his snoring), also northbound, and Jean Cassin (ATC information lady who remembered me from my previous visit) and a Harpers Ferry visitor who talked with me for a long time, and a local newspaper reporter who also talked to me for a while.  I then walked a mile to a cluster of three small groceries where I got my supplies and had a snack.  I wrote cards to Cederholms and Birches and posted them at the Post Office on my way back.  Met George and Karin there, who had had a good night with the alcoholic tramp.  Jean had gone out so I decided to get some lunch at a nearby café.  I returned at 1pm, hung around for a while and met Paul, another northbound Thru-hiker, who’d been off for a week in Washington DC.  I had my photo taken for the AT album (Australian flag prominent), said goodbye to Jean and the other staff, and set off about 1:50pm, about 3 hours later than intended.  It was very hot.  The Trail descended through historic Harpers Ferry and crossed the Potomac on a railway bridge to Maryland.  Goodbye West Virgina.  The trail then followed the Ohio & Chesapeake Canal and the Potomac River for quite some time.  It was flat, and cooler in the shade.  I had hoped to do another 18 miles but my toes hurt for some reason and, after climbing up onto a ridge in Maryland, I decided 12 miles would be enough – it was getting late.  I caught Chainsaw and we bot decided to head for Crampton Gap Shelter. He stopped in Gothland State Park to cook dinner and I went on to the Shelter which was unoccupied.  However, during the next two hours, George and Karin and their son (joining them for a week) turned up with George determined to utilise all space in the small Shelter so the snoring Chainsaw would have to sleep elsewhere.  Next, however, Paul turned up so they found room for him.  Then it really was full.  Chainsaw turned up at 8:30pm and good-naturedly agreed to sleep outside, even though he didn’t have a tent.  At about 3am, there was a huge thunderstorm and torrential rain.  Chainsaw didn’t get much sleep.  I felt sorry for the gregarious eccentric old guy.

Appalachian Trail - Day 051

Day:  051
Date:  Sunday, 22 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.8
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (shelter)
Total AT Miles:  982.4
Total All Miles:  1012.8
Weather:  Hot, humid, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Egg and bacon pie, fruit salad, muffins.
Aches:  Right little toe and sole of right foot sore.
Animals Seen:  Tortoises, snake, deer, squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen:  2 AT Thru-hikers (GEOKA), 6 overnight hikers, 2 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:45am and was on the Trail by 7am.  I had said I would meet the Binnings 24½ miles up the Trail by 5pm but, as Uncle Al had warned me, the early going was hard.  New Trail with lots of rocks, turns, abrupt rises and descents, and bramble overgrowth that scratched up my legs.  Just before lunch I caught George and Karin again – they had passed while I was I was in Front Royal.  We talked for a while and I managed to point out to them that Harpers Ferry was further away than they anticipated.  I left them and hiked another 3 miles to a sand spring and had lunch.  They caught me again and I wasted another half hour talking.  Despite rumours to the contrary, the going was still hard for the next 4 miles and it became evident that I was going to be late for my appointment even though I was taking fewer breaks.  Some sore spots on my right foot (little toe and sole) also were slowing me down.  I reached my destination, Keyes Gap Shelter, at 5:45pm to find an old alcoholic tramp in residence and the Binnings gone (but expected to return).  I tended my feet and 20 minutes later they appeared.  I decided to go down to their car for our picnic, which we did, and spent a pleasant few hours chatting.  I decided that, rather than stay with the tramp, I would hike another mile or so and sleep in my tent. This I did, and stopped at 8:15pm, washed, got into bed at 9pm, and updated my diary until 9:30pm before going to sleep.

Appalachian Trail - Day 050

Day:  050
Date:  Saturday, 21 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  17.5
Daily Other Miles:  0.9 (0.5 in Front Royal, 0.2 store, 0.2 shelter)
Total AT Miles:  957.6
Total All Miles:  987.8
Weather:  Very warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Eggs, sausages, scones.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Fettucine, pop tarts.
Aches:  Toes a bit sore.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels.
People Seen:  1 AT Thru-hiker, 1 day hiker, many others.

Journal:
Got up ay 7:50am and had a shower.  At 8am, the Aussie Rules match came back on ESPN so I needn’t have stayed up so late. I rang Mark and arranged to meet him at Keys Gap Shelter at 5pm tomorrow night for dinner.  After breakfast, I finished packing and departed at 9:10am.  I walked ½ a mile to a good hitching place and stood there, on a pleasant sunny day, for ½ an hour before getting a lift to Linden.  It was amazing how many women in cars slow a little, look at you and obviously think about picking you up, only to reject the idea as risky.  I went to the Post Office, did some mailing, and then went to a grocery store for a pint of milk and a chocolate ice-cream.  I headed off at 11:10am.  The Trail at first followed a road before entering the woods.  It was fairly easy going and I made good time.  Where the Trail crossed Ashby Gap during the afternoon, I walked up the road 200m to a restaurant which had a phone and called Marj in case I didn’t get another opportunity.  She was quite chatty. After a milkshake I left and walked the remaining 3½ miles to Rod Hollow Shelter, my goal for the day.  There was no-one there and the Shelter was excellent – brand new with a pavilion for eating and cooking, and a good piped spring with a facility for showers. At about 7:30pm, another AT hiker (by sections), Uncle Al, turned up.  He’d hiked a 100 miles further south and could fill me in on the progress of a few people I knew.  In 1984, he had hiked from Georgia to Massachusetts, but then his wife had asked him to come home.  This year he planned to hike Virginia to Maine.  He was useful with information about the Trail in Pennsylvania.  I went to bed at 9:30pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 049

Day:  049
Date:  Friday, 20 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  0
Daily Other Miles:  0.4 (to store)
Total AT Miles:  940.1
Total All Miles:  969.4
Weather:  Warm, humid, cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Eggs, sausages, scones.
  Lunch:  Burgers, fries, shake.
  Dinner:  Trout, vegetables, ice-cream.
Aches:
Animals Seen:
People Seen:  Many

Journal:
Got up at about 8:30am and, after a shower, wandered across the road to the restaurant for breakfast.  After breakfast, I spent a few hours sewing my Australian flags on my pack.  It was a slow job and at 12:30pm I knocked off and walked up the road to get burgers for lunch again.  After lunch, I finished my sewing chores and decided not to bother walking the mile to the laundry, but did my own washing by hand.  The afternoon went quickly – I didn’t get the letters written I had planned on.  I rang theBinnings before going to tea and arranged to ring them again in the morning re a possible Sunday meeting.  Had another excellent dinner and adjourned to my room to catch up on my badly over-due diary.  Tried to ring Barb a number of times unsuccessfully.  Stayed up to 1am watching Aussie Rules on ESPN.  It wasn’t a bad game with North Melbourne just pipping Sydney.  Rang Barb at 11pm and got Ngaire – Barb’s away for the weekend.

Appalachian Trail - Day 048

Day:  048
Date:  Thursday, 19 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  9.9
Daily Other Miles:  0.5 (to store)
Total AT Miles:  940.1
Total All Miles:  969.0
Weather:  Mild, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Burgers, fries, apple, watermelon.
  Dinner:  Pork chops, vegetables, ice-cream.
Aches:
Animals Seen:  Deer, grouse, chipmunks, squirrels, Asian donkeys.
People Seen:  No hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am and away at 7:30am. It was hard to develop a sense of urgency on days when I was walking reduced mileages. The Trail wound around a lot and passed through a few properties initially but was still good going for the first 3 miles.  But, after that it passed through very overgrown grassy areas which were supposedly tick infested.  Much of the grass was head-high and I didn’t enjoy it.  The Trail also passed along the perimeter of land owned by the National Zoo and I saw animals which looked like Asian donkeys grazing.  The grass was later replaced by nettles before it became more pleasant at higher altitudes. I made good time and the last few miles along country roads into Linden were enjoyable.  I arrived at the Post Office at 11:40am (lucky – it closed between 12pm and 1pm) and found a very helpful postmaster who gave me my mail, insisted on ringing motels in Front Royal to check prices (and if they had cable TV) and then drove me the 7 miles to Front Royal in his lunch hour.  I checked into the motel, which was a bit dumpish but OK (didn’t have HBO!).  I then walked up the street ¼ mile to a supermarket, did my shopping, and collected some lunch at the Burger King on the way back.  I spent the afternoon watching TV, reading mail and writing to Barb.  I had dinner at a nice restaurant across the street and then relaxed eating, watching TV and reading the paper for the rest of the evening.  Went to bed at 12:30am.  I couldn’t open the windows, so had to have the noisy air conditioner on most of the time.

Appalachian Trail - Day 047

Day:  047
Date:  Wednesday, 18 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.1
Daily Other Miles:  0.4 (0.2 shelter, 0.2 spring)
Total AT Miles:  930.2
Total All Miles:  958.6
Weather:  Mild, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink then, later, hamburger, fries, orange juice, ice-cream, milk-shake.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, pop tarts.
Aches:  Tired feet.
Animals Seen:  Many deer, grouse, chipmunks, squirrels.
People Seen:  Six overnight hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:50am and left at about 7:30am.  Katherine was very chatty and wanted me to wait a few minutes until she was ready to leave, even though our paths would only be the same for ¼ mile.  We said our good-byes and I headed off, looking forward to a shorter day with easy grades in pleasant walking conditions.  I decided to walk steadily to Elkwallow Wayside where there was a snack bar and have a second breakfast.  I arrived there around 10am and bought a few supplies plus burger, fries, shake, orange juice, and ice-cream.  I took these out to a picnic table in the sun and spent a very pleasant hour eating and itinerary planning.  Then I walked another 8 miles including gentle grades and a few views to the top of North Marshall Mountain for lunch.  After lunch, I continued on and passed through an area of forest devastated by the gypsy moth before eventually leaving Shenandoah National Park.  I reached Tom Floyd Wayside Shelter at 6:10pm.  It was very nice, apart from a long hike down the mountain to get water from a spring, and I had it to myself.  A good dinner and a leisurely evening, and a lovely sunset, made for a great evening.  Went to bed at 9:30pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 046

Day:  046
Date:  Tuesday, 17 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  26.4
Daily Other Miles:  0.3 (shelter)
Total AT Miles:  907.1
Total All Miles:  935.1
Weather:  Mild, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Chilli, hamburger and fries.
  Dinner:  Salad, chicken, fries and ice-cream.
Aches:  Back outside of both feet very sore.
Animals Seen:  Many deer, chipmunks, squirrels.
People Seen:  Two AT Thru-hikers, approximately 15 overnight hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at about 5:50am and got away at 7:20am.  It was much cooler and promised to be a cool sunny day – good for hiking. The rear outside of both soles were still very sore, as though there were deep blisters, but I was loathe to push needles in any further.  Once again the Trail had easy grades and was generally even.  There were some parts where the nettles were quite bad.  I hadn’t expected that in the Shenandoah National Park.  The less humid weather meant less haze and therefore some of the best views for the trip so far – especially over the Shenandoah Valley.  I put in four miles between breaks and thought about stopping at Big Meadows (where Barb and I had camped) for a second breakfast, but decided I didn’t need it , especially since I expected to be buying lunch and dinner.  I stopped for a nice long break in the sun at the picnic area there while I worked out an itinerary to Delaware Water Gap, including 1½ days off in Front Royal.  It seemed reasonable provided that the going wasn’t too bad.  I was again nostalgic for the good old days in the van (gone forever) as I walked along parts of the AT I had run a couple of months ago.  The 8 miles to Skyland seemed hard and the feet were sore – inexplicable mood swings.  I arrived at 2:10pm and went to the restaurant at the Lodge for a reasonably-priced, not particularly good, meal (good chilli, though).  On leaving, I met two AT Thru-hikers I must have passed in the morning – GEOKA (George and Karin).  I chatted for a while.  They had left on 15 April and I was the first person to catch them.  It was then another 8 miles to Thornton Gap, including a couple of mountains and some more views.  I arrived at the Panorama Restaurant at 6:40pm, discovered it closed at 7pm, and went straight in and ordered.  It was a good meal and I was last to leave.  I then had an easy uphill 1½ mile walk to reach Pass Mountain Hut where I arrived on a lovely evening at 8:10pm.  Already in residence was Katherine, an English 30yo archaeologist who’d been living in Hanover, West Germany, for the last 7 years.  Initially she was a little reserved, but later became very friendly.  I went to bed at 9:30pm.  Lots of fireflies again.

Appalachian Trail - Day 045

Day:  045
Date:  Monday, 16 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  26.6
Daily Other Miles:  0.7 (0.3 campground, 0.3 store, 0.1 shelter)
Total AT Miles:  880.7
Total All Miles:  908.4
Weather:  Hot, humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, two bananas.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, corn chips.
  Dinner:  Corn chips, ice-cream.
Aches:  Blister on right foot, wasp sting on left wrist, numbness in left knee.
Animals Seen:  Several deer, chipmunks, squirrels, rabbits.
People Seen:  Ten overnight hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am after quite a good night’s sleep (though I could have slept longer) and after a somewhat leisurely start (finished reading the paper) I set out reluctantly on my 26+ mile day in weather that was forecast to be hot and humid.  Knowing that it would be hard, I paced myself and had a rest every hour.  The new shorts and T-shirt were definitely more comfortable to hike in.  I set as my goal Swift Run Gap for lunch, 17 miles down the track and, with a little help from the Sony Walkman, made it at 3pm.  Although there were a number of viewpoints, the immensely thick haze marred the views.  It was quite oppressive.  After lunch, I set out for Lewis Mountain Campground, 9 miles away, and reached there at 6:50pm, feeling very tired.  The store was open and I purchased a quart of ice-cream and three cans of Coke (plus some powdered milk) for dinner.  Fortunately, the storekeeper told me the water was bad at Bearfence Gap where I was headed, so I was able to top up.  I arrived at Bearfence at 7:15pm, very footsore, and got a fire going while I had a wash.  Although the fire was good, the grill was too high and, after a lot of stuffing around, I never did manage to get water boiled for macaroni cheese.  In the end, I dined on corn chips, ice-cream and Coke.  As it got dark, there were lots of fireflies dancing around.  I went to bed at about 9:40pm.  There were some no-see-ums biting.

Appalachian Trail - Day 044

Day:  044
Date:  Sunday, 15 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  21.4
Daily Other Miles:  0.7 (around Campground)
Total AT Miles:  854.1
Total All Miles:  881.1
Weather:  Very warm, humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Four cakes
  Lunch:  Chicken, salad, pate, biscuits.
  Dinner:  Chicken, chips, rock melon, ice-cream.
Aches:  Blisters on both heels.
Animals Seen:  Many deer, a bear, snake, chipmunks, squirrels, grouse.
People Seen:  Four overnight hikers, ten day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a reasonable night’s sleep and managed to get going by 6:40am.  Everything was wet after a heavy night’s dew.  After about an hour, when crossing a fairly open scrubby part of the crest of Calf Mountain, I disturbed something big about 30 yards in front of me which turned out to be a big black bear.  It went lumbering off to the right and I had a good view for a couple of seconds.  My first black bear – I was very pleased.  Shortly after, I entered Shenandoah National Park and concentrated on maintaining a good pace on the good quality Trail.  Although there were hills, the grades were good and surface even.  The scenery wasn’t much altered from further south, although perhaps there was less undergrowth.  Occasionally, through the clearings and when the Trail crossed the Skyline Drive, it was possible to get good views of other mountains and the valleys but, as always, it was very hazy (and hot and humid).  I only allowed myself short breaks in my efforts to reach Loft Mountain Picnic Area, 21½ miles away, at the 2pm time I had arranged with the Binnings.  My pack was light and my progress was good. With about 3½ miles to go, I met Mark coming the other way and he accompanied me back to the Picnic Area, chatting all the time, which made the last few miles a bit easier.  He also had some soft drink and I had run out of water.  We reached the Picnic Area, and Fran and Ashley, at about 2:20pm and I was glad to sit down.  They had brought lots of drinks, fruit, pasta salad and chicken, so I ate my fill and talked a lot.  Asley had the sulks.  They had driven 130 miles to meet me, which was really nice of them.  At about 5pm, we moved down to the shower and laundry building and I had a shower before putting my washing on. The 50¢ for 5 minutes shower ran out (no cold water, either) when I was fully soaped up (hair and all) and I had to wipe myself down with a towel, throw on some shorts, and walk out to Mark to borrow another 50¢.  Broke my thong en route.  While my laundry was on, we had cheese and pate on the lawns before the Binnings left at about 5:45pm – leaving me with food, newspapers, etc. – for the long drive home.  I could have joined them easy – a bit of takeaway on the way home, some TV, and bed.  Instead, I did some shopping in the poorly stocked store, walked the 1/3 mile to the Campground, and booked in for a night as well as getting my Backcountry Permit.  In the remaining two hours of daylight, I ate, repacked food, and read the paper.  It was strange to be in a standard National Parks Campground without Barb and the van.  It made me nostalgic for this time last year.  Hot tomorrow and 26½ miles.  I went to bed on my new air mattress (also got a new Sony Walkman Radio, new shoes, new shorts, new groundsheet) feeling tired already.

Appalachian Trail - Day 043

Day:  043
Date:  Saturday, 14 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.0
Daily Other Miles:  0.5 (Blue Ridge Parkway Visitors Centre)
Total AT Miles:  832.7
Total All Miles:  859.0
Weather:  Warm, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli.
  Lunch:  Soup, burger, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Omelette, potato skins, ice-cream.
Aches:  Blisters on both heels, wasp sting on left wrist.
Animals Seen:  Turkey, snake, fawn, rabbit, chipmunks, squirrels.
People Seen:  One overnight hiker, six day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:50am when Pete woke me – he and Ridgerunner got up at 5:30am.  I was underway at 7am – my earliest yet.  I anticipated that the Trail would be easy and mainly downhill for the 17 miles to Rockfish Gap.  Because I wasn’t carrying much food, I hoped that it would be a quick trip and that I would be in the Howard Johnsons Restaurant in the Gap soon after 1pm for lunch.  However, much of the Trail was very slow going.  Some of it was through chest-high grass, nettles and weeds just out of sight of the Blue Ridge Parkway, some of it was steep and some of it wound around and over rocks.  There were occasional good views from rocky outcrops but many of the hills again offered nothing for the strenuous climb.  I caught and passed both Peter and Ridgerunner who had similar opinions about the Trail.  After a slow 10 miles, I called in at the Humpback Blue Ridge Parkway Visitor Centre and called Mark to alter our meeting place for tomorrow to the Loft Mountain Picnic Area which would mean I could have the arvo off.  I replenished water and continued along the Trail which remained the same.  I did, however, surprise a fawn sitting on the path and got a very good look at it.  Eventually, I arrived at Rockfish Gap at 3:15pm and went straight to the restaurant for a late lunch.  I bought a pint of ice-cream for dessert and ate it sitting under a tree on the grass near the highway reading the Washington Post.  Peter turned up and we chatted for a while.  Like everybody else, he was headed into Waynesboro for a few days R & R.  I visited the adjacent service station to see if they had food suitable for dinner.  They didn’t.  I bought a few cakes for tomorrow’s breakfast and a couple of cans of Coke and returned to the grass to pass another hour before having an early dinner at the same restaurant.  Ridgerunner turned up.  They were surprised to see me back in the restaurant at 5:45pm.  I had dinner, bought another pint of ice-cream, and hit the Trail at 6:40pm, hoping to reach Calf Mountain Shelter, 7.2 miles away.  I stopped and ate the ice-cream after half an hour and pressed on during a lovely evening on quite a good Trail.  At 9pm, atop Calf Mountain, I called it quits and quickly set up camp.

Appalachian Trail - Day 042

Day:  042
Date:  Friday, 13 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  20.0
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  809.7
Total All Miles:  835.5
Weather:  Mild, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, Quik.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter.
  Dinner:  Various left-overs, macaroni cheese.
Aches:  Both heels blistered.
Animals Seen:  Grouse and chicks, chipmunk.
People Seen:  Seven overnight hikers, some AT Thru-Hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am and all the others left before I got away at 7:40am.  My intention was to hike 20 miles plus make a trip into Tyro, 1¼ miles off the Trail, for food.  The Trail was quite pleasant through forest with the weather cooler and the pack lighter.  I stopped for morning break and finished my letter to Pete & Chris.  The Trail then ascended over a mountain called The Priest. On the way up, I met a black guy who had been staying in the nearby Shelter.  I later discovered he was a novice in the bush and weka had arrived after dark at his Shelter to find him huddled up with a revolver “sorting out a few problems”.  Weka had a sleepless night and an early departure.  Annoyingly, there wasn’t much of a view from the top – another AT bummer.  There was then a very long descent to the Tye River and the road to Tyro.  I sat beside the road to hitch-hike and decided I probably had enough food to get me to the Loft Mountain Campground in Shenandoah National Park so couldn’t be bothered walking to the Tyro store.  I spent half an hour thumbing in the sun and, after no success, gave it away and began climbing the mountain on the other side.  I stopped for lunch at the attractive Harpers Creek Lean-To before climbing on up to Three Ridges.  There was a short-cut – that Pete and Stu took – to Maupin Shelter that avoided the arduous climb to Three Ridges.  It wasn’t so steep, just rocky, winding and covered with nettles.  What’s more, you couldn’t see anything from the top.  There followed a 3 mile descent to Maupin Shelter where I arrived at 6:15pm to find Peter, Weka, and a family group of six.  They had extra food after just finishing dinner, so the three of us finished off an assortment of stew, chilli and chocolate pudding – very nice.  Another pleasant evening – fire already going.

Appalachian Trail - Day 041

Day:  041
Date:  Thursday, 12 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.8
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (to Shelter)
Total AT Miles:  789.7
Total All Miles:  815.5
Weather:  Very warm, humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni pudding, instant pudding.
Aches:  Blisters on toes and both heels.
Animals Seen:  Snake, tortoise, turkeys and chicks, two deer.
People Seen:  Three AT Thru-Hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am after a bad night, broke out in sweat and bitten by insects.  Left at 7:25am after wishing and singing Happy Birthday to Ole.  The Trail was very nice, passing through an old conifer forest in some parts with little undergrowth.  It was a warm sunny day, but more pleasant down in the dark forest which was still wet from the previous night’s rain. The Trail also followed the edge of an attractive reservoir and a lovely stream before reaching Brown Mountain Creek Lean-To where I had my morning break, part of it with Stu and Pete.  There followed a long (4½ mile) climb to the top of Bald Knob, from which you couldn’t see anything.  Very sweaty.  Later on, however, the Trail crossed some open fields on the crest of the ridge and there were some good views in all directions.  I had a late lunch in a sunny spot by the Trail before covering the last 7½ miles to Seeley-Woodworth Memorial Shelter through medium forest.  My blisters were bothering me again.  At the Shelter I met OldRidgerunner, Peter, Ruben (Czech-born Australian) and Weka, who moved on another few miles.  Stu arrived later.  Another pleasant evening chatting.

Appalachian Trail - Day 040

Day:  040
Date:  Wednesday, 11 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  26.0
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (to Shelter)
Total AT Miles:  765.9
Total All Miles:  791.5
Weather:  Hot, humid, mostly sunny, thunderstorms later.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding.
Aches:  Blisters on outside of both heels.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, chipmunks, deer, tortoise.
People Seen:  Six AT Thru-Hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:00am and was visited by a deer while having breakfast.  Got away at 7:20am with a long day in prospect.  The day started ominously when, in the first few miles, it passed through deep nettles and over jagged rocks.  Progress was slow and the blisters, which had developed on the outside of my heels over the last couple of days, were sore despite having been pricked last night.  Fortunately, the condition of the Trail improved and speed picked up.  After two hours, I stopped and bandaged both blisters but the pain worsened as I continued the long descent through the James River Wilderness on a nicely graded trail.  The Trail crossed the James River just below a dam and power station and I walked for another 1½ miles on what had become a very hot sunny and humid day before stopping for lunch on top of a big rock by a stream.  My feet were very sore and the pain was depressing me to the point where all I could think of was a day off and finishing the Trail.  After lunch I removed one set of insoles from the shoes, leaving the Sorbothane, and the bandages.  I found that by walking pigeon-toed the pain was less and it gradually diminished through the afternoon.  Morover, the shoes fitted better and didn’t “eat” my socks as much but I could feel the front of my feet absorbing more punishment.  Lunch was followed by two long climbs up to Little Rocky Row and Big Rocky Row which both provided excellent views over the James River valley.  However, the heat and humidity made both ascents extremely sweaty affairs.  Because my feet were less ainful and because I was making good time today, my mood improved as the Trail maintained an easy grade along the crest and side of a ridge through forest.  Not as many flowers, though.  At about 5:30pm, Stu caught me and we then caught AT Thru-Hikers, Alice and Ole, and Barb.  They were also headed for Punchbowl Shelter and told us three other hikers were already there.  We pressed on for the last 3 miles but, with 1½ miles to go, were hit by a heavy thunderstorm and got soaked.  At the Shelter we met AT Thru-Hikers, Florida Boy (Pete), EZ Doesit and OD Doe plus a dog.  Had a good chat with Pete.  The three we had met earlier chose to sleep in their tent (the rain stopped) so the Shelter wasn’t too crowded.  Wet wood so a cold dinner.

Appalachian Trail - Day 039

Day:  039
Date:  Tuesday, 10 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  21.5
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (to Shelter)
Total AT Miles:  739.9
Total All Miles:  765.3
Weather:  Mild, overcast, a little rain.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Noodles and chicken, instant pudding.
Aches:  Blisters on both heels.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, chipmunks, three deer.
People Seen:  Stu and The Greenhorns.

Journal:
Got up at 6:00am and messed around a bit before leaving at 7:50am.  The Trail was mostly through forest and fairly easy walking.  It was nice to have it a bit cooler.  The Greenhorns had arrived at the shelter just before I left and Mike indicated they wanted to get to Rockfish Gap the same time as me and said they would try to stick to my schedule though I don’t think that Frank was so keen.  I was happy at the prospect of a 20 mile day and hoped to finish early for a change.  The miles seemed shorter, which was nice.  After a steady descent, the majority of the day was spent ascending Floyd Mt and then up to the Blue Ridge Parkway.  The last part of the day was through a lot of nettles and later through very rocky and difficult terrain.  It drizzled a little in the late afternoon.  I reached the Thunder Hill Lean-To at 5:15pm and spent a pleasant leisurely evening eating, writing and listening to the radio, as well reading the Philosopher’s Guide to see where my next motel stop might be.

Appalachian Trail - Day 038

Day:  038
Date:  Monday, 9 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  19.6
Daily Other Miles:  1.4 (0.2 from motel, 1.0 to Post Office, 0.2 to Shelter)
Total AT Miles:  718.4
Total All Miles:  743.6
Weather:  Very warm, humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Two croissants, chocolate milk.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Noodles and chicken, pop tarts.
Aches:  Feet still sore.
Animals Seen:  Two grouse, two black snakes, rabbit.
People Seen:  Eight AT Thru-Hikers (two by stages), one day hiker, many others.

Journal:
Got up at about 7:30am after not a particularly good night’s sleep – too much food and air-conditioning.  Stu left to get his mail in Cloverdale and, after an unsuccessful attempt to ring Barb, I left at about 8:40am.  It was a bit of a wrench to leave all that comfort behind.  I could easily have stayed another day and was glad I had only scheduled 20 miles for today.  I rejoined the Trail, which had recently been relocated, and in about 45 minutes, after a not particularly pleasant walk through waste grassland and beside the freeway, reached a road.  I left the AT and walked down the road about a mile (supposed to be a ½ mile) to Troutville and went to the Post Office where I collected my mail – but no shoes.  I found a phone and rang Barb at about 10:00am and had a nice chat.  The comforts of home are becoming more attractive.  I went into the grocery, bought some stuff for breakfast and ate that while I read my letters (Barb (2), Marj, Peter, Jean, Bill).  Time was passing but I decided to take my time.  I returned to the Post Office mailed some stuff to Barb, Marj, and myself at Linden and left at about 11:30am.  I was fortunate to hitch a ride back to the AT and began walking.  After crossing a bit of farmland, it followed a country road for a few miles which was quite pleasant in the warm sun.  It then entered the forest again and climbed steadily to Fullhardts Knob on a reasonable Trail.  I stopped by the Trail for lunch and read the Kew Camberwell Athletic Club newsletter and Barb’s again.  After lunch I continued on the pleasant Trail and met Mike of The Greenhorns running back along the Trail to retrieve a neck charm he’d left at a stream.Shortly after I reached Wilson Creek Shelter where I met AT Thru-Hikers, Darryl and Melinda, and Frank of The Greenhorns.  I stopped for a break and a chat.During the break a day hiker came down the AT from the north, said hello, and retraced his steps.  I left 10 minutes later and soon caught him up the hill but he had no intention of letting me through so I slowed my pace and chatted to him.  He stopped for a drink and I passed and the AT soon reached the Blue Ridge Parkway which it paralleled for the remainder of my day to Bobblets Gap Lean-To.  There would good views at various points down both sides of the Blue Ridge.  I reached the Shelter at 7:10pm and found Stu and Gus (a southbound AT hiker, by stages) who was a real nice guy.  We had a good evening in the Shelter, which had been adopted by a local, Running Richard, who kept everything in excellent shape for AT hikers.  A bear had been seen in the vicinity the previous day and there were a few jokes about the food bags hung over my bedding, but it was an uneventful night.

Appalachian Trail - Day 037

Day:  037
Date:  Sunday, 8 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  12.9
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (to motel)
Total AT Miles:  698.8
Total All Miles:  722.6
Weather:  Hot, humid, partly cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Two hamburgers, fries, shake.
  Dinner:  Catfish, salad bar, ice-cream.
Aches:  Feet sore.
Animals Seen:  Two tortoises, rabbit, squirrel, chipmunk.
People Seen:  Two AT Thru-hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:00am after a sleepless night and was away by 7:20am after arranging to meet Stu at the road in Cloverdale at 12:30pm so we could get a motel room to share.  After a rough descent the Trail crossed some farmland before climbing through some rough very weedy unattractive countryside up to Scorched Earth Gap.  It was warm and muggy again and I was sweating a lot.  From there the Trail improved and became a pleasant undulating walk through conifer and deciduous forest on a partly rocky trail along the edge of an escarpment which gave good views into the valley below.  Further along there were views in the other direction over a reservoir.  At about 11:45am I began the steady descent towards Cloverdale with my feet hurting a lot and looking forward to their half day off.  I met Stu at 12:45pm and we walked down to the Country Pride Motel and truckstop by the freeway and just had time to get some hamburgers, fries and shakes before the NBA final began on TV (which also had cable). It was heaven sitting there with our feet up, eating and watching the game which our team (both of us supported the Boston Celtics) won to clinch the Championship.  The motel had a laundry so we did our washing and some TV watching and diary writing before going to the great value All-You-Can-Eat salad restaurant across the road where we ate big.  After that we shopped and returned to the motel.  I called the Binnings and gave them a shopping list and Marj before returning to pack my groceries and write a late letter to Barb.  I got to bed at 1:30am, feeling still very full.

Appalachian Trail - Day 036

Day:  036
Date:  Saturday, 7 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.0
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  685.9
Total All Miles:  709.5
Weather:  Hot, very humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Two ham & salad sandwiches, fudge brownie, quart of ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding.
Aches:  Right foot numb, sweat rash.
Animals Seen:  Two tortoises, deer, chipmunk, groundhog.
People Seen:  Four AT Thru-Hikers, eight day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:00am and away by 7:20am on a day that promised to be tough.  My feet, particularly the right one, didn’t seem to have recovered from yesterday.  I decided that it would be sensible to take it steady and have a break every hour.  I would have liked to do 28 miles, but would be happy with 24 which would only leave 13 for tomorrow.  The Trail descended at first then passed through an undulating and fairly tiring section.  I met Debbie and Alan, AT Thru-Hikers camped on the Trail.  The Trail then wound around the side of a long ridge with tough inclines right to left.  It was very tough on my feet and it was hot.  This was followed by a tough climb to a rocky ridge (Cove Mt) and then slow progress along that pretty ridge.  Good views and a pretty Trail.  It ended at the jagged rocks known as the Dragons teeth and stopped for the views and a rest.  Stu arrived, having put in a big morning from Sarver’s Cabin.  There was a rocky descent to the road and the Catawba Grocery.  On arrival we found Charlie and Tricia (from Pearisburg) who had hitched in to collect a new pack.  I gorged myself on ice-cream, Coke and orange juice as well as sandwiches and fudge while sitting in the shade for an hour and chatting.  There was a hot slog up onto NorthMountain where I met “The Greenhorns” (Mike and Frank) who were having an easy day avoiding the heat.  It was rumoured they wanted to hike from Georgia to Maine without washing, but they denied it.  There was then a long walk along the fairly easy North Mt ridge but I was tired and hot and just wanted to reach water and camp.  Eventually the Trail began its descent and crossed a creek where I got water and camped on the Trail.  Stu and The Greenhorns camped nearby.  It was 7:45pm and I had a cold dinner and retired at 9:15pm.  It rained during the night, my feet hurt and the ground was rocky to sleep on.

Appalachian Trail - Day 035

Day:  035
Date:  Friday, 6 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  30.4
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  661.9
Total All Miles:  685.5
Weather:  Hot, very humid, rain in the morning, partly cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding.
Aches:  Both feet, very tired.
Animals Seen:  Two snakes, two tortoises, deer, turkey, chipmunks.
People Seen:  Two AT Thru-hikers (one southbound)

Journal:
Got up at 6:00am and away by 7:10am.  Spending less time treating feet. Stu a bit slower to start.  I wanted to see how far I could get so that I would have a chance of reaching Troutville on Sunday lunchtime and so have ½ a day off.  The weather was steamy and by the time I had climbed to Bailey Gap Shelter I was absolutely soaked.  From there, what looked level on the map was, but required constant boulder scrambling which was very tedious.  After the boulders I met Sonny Daze, a southbound Thru-Hiker, who I chatted to for a while.  He explained some confusing trail marking up ahead.  There followed a steep descent then and even longer steep ascent up to Big Pond Shelter in the rain.  It was extremely humid and there were lots of bugs out biting me on the ankles.  Although my shoes were not giving me blisters, the right one kept coming off and both kept swallowing my socks which was very annoying when the Trail was tough enough anyway.  After Big Pond Shelter, there was another long descent, a stretch through farmland and along a road, then a tough climb up to a ridge.  I met another black snake on the ridge as I struggled along trying to get the miles in.  Progress was slow along the ridge in the late afternoon sun.  It was very rocky in most parts, but enabled good views down to the right.  I reached the turn-off to Sarver’s Cabin (0.3 miles steeply down) after 24 miles and, although tired, decided to press on.  I eventually reached Niday Shelter at 8:50pm in the late evening gloom to find Jack, from NY, already in bed.  I hurriedly washed and ate cold by candlelight before getting into bed at 10:30pm.  There were a lot of bugs in the shelter and my feet were sore so I didn’t have a very good night.  A new ThermaRest mattress would be nice (the present one has a puncture).  My first, and maybe last, 30+ mile day.

Appalachian Trail - Day 034

Day:  034
Date:  Thursday, 5 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  19.1
Daily Other Miles: 1.5
Total AT Miles:  631.5
Total All Miles:  655.1
Weather:  Very warm, humid, partly cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, scrambled eggs (6!), orange juice.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  Feet very tired in new shoes.
Animals Seen:  Dogs, black snake, chipmunks, turkey, cow.
People Seen:  Five overnight hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:45am after not a particularly good night’s sleep (too warm) and went down and rang Mark Binning from the call phone attached to the excellent Hospice (kitchen, bathroom, large living area and loft sleeping area in an old renovated barn). Fran had sent the shoes First Class after being told they would easily get there and bought New Balance instead of Nike.  Not exactly a success story.  Mark said they would probably make it out to Shenandoah National Park the weekend after next to see me for a picnic which will be good.  I decided to try the Post Office on my way out but otherwise to just trust the redirect I left yesterday.  Stu had bought a dozen eggs so we each gorged ourselves for breakfast.  I had a six-egg scramble preceded by muesli and followed by a quart of orange juice.  After breakfast I called the Post Office who said the shoes hadn’t come in but that the parcel post arrived around 9:15am.  I walked into town, meeting Stu on the way, and at the Post Office a guy offered us a lift back to the Trail.  No news at the Post Office, although they were helpful, so we set off.  The first few miles passed through trashy wasteland and along the highway before then messing around going up and down gullies prior to a long ascent.  The late start and slow progress made it doubtful that the Bailey Gap shelter (24 miles) would be reached.  We didn’t start walking until 9:35am.  Near the top of the first ascent I met a long black snake on the Trail that was in no hurry to get off despite being hit on the head by a rock.  I was travelling slowly in my new shoes and resting plenty.  On the top of the ridge the Trail was mostly flat going through thigh high undergrowth.  It was very warm and muggy and I was drenched in sweat.  I had a late lunch at SymmsGap Meadow which had good views.  I then pressed on going even slower than I thought and after a difficult 1½ mile rocky descent to Pine Swamp Shelter, arriving at 6:45pm, I found Stu there with a fire going and called it a day.  Feet very tired but no blisters from new shoes.  I think they’re half a size too big.  Went to bed at 9:15pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 033

Day:  033
Date:  Wednesday, 4 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  15.8
Daily Other Miles:  5.5 (2.5 Hospice, 3.0 shopping)
Total AT Miles:  612.4
Total All Miles:  634.5
Weather:  Warm, humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, Quik.
  Lunch:  Cheeseburger, fries, milkshake.
  Dinner:  Pizza, salad, ice-cream.
Aches:  Feet very tired and sore.
Animals Seen:  Two deer, chipmunks, dogs.
People Seen:  Six day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:10am and managed to get away by 7:20am.  On the map it looked like that, after a climb, the walking should be easy.  However, despite the fact that my feet felt better and I could stride out and the Trail was fairly easy, progress seemed to be slow.  It was, however, very pretty with lots of flowers, rocky bits, and occasional views.  I fell heavily at one point, when a rock I stepped on moved, but my pack absorbed most of the impact and, after lying there for a minute wondering what damage was done, I got up to find none apart from a sore arm.  Stu had headed off earlier at a fast pace and I didn’t expect to see him until Pearisburg.  The Trail climbed up steeply to an escarpment where it wended its way through thigh-high undergrowth.  It seemed that miles were longer than indicated in the guide.  The Trail came out onto a ledge overlooking the valley in which Pearisburg lay.  Stu was there having a rest.  He too was finding the miles long.  The Trail began to descend and I made a short detour to Angels Rest, a lookout over Pearisburg.  There I found the local Methodist retired men’s group and accompanied them for the remainder for the descent.  There were about seven of them.  They told me that a couple had been murdered at Wapiti II Shelter a few years ago!  The descent was slower than I expected and I didn’t get to the Pearisburg Post Office until after 3:00pm to find the running shoes Fran was supposed to have sent me hadn’t arrived.  My feet were very tired and I hurried out to the Catholic Hospice for AT hikers, 1½ miles out of town, had a shower, then quickly walked back into town.  I saw a small shop which sold KangaRoos running shoes, so mailed my boots back to Marj, then went and bought a pair – they were so good, the high school track team wore them according to the sales lady.  After checking both the supermarket and laundromat were open late, I went to the Dairy Queen and had a very late lunch before shopping and washing.  On the way back to the Hospice, I stopped at the Pizza Hut for dinner, but found myself very full.  Nevertheless, I bought a pint of ice-cream and ½ gallon of orange juice for later on my weary way home carrying washing and groceries and shoes and valuables.  Back at the Hospice I met brother and sister AT hikers, Charlie and Tricia, and spent until midnight repacking groceries, chatting, trying to ring Mark and Fran Binning and eating before going to bed.

Appalachian Trail - Day 032

Day:  032
Date:  Tuesday, 3 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.1
Daily Other Miles:  0.3 (Shelter)
Total AT Miles:  596.6
Total All Miles:  613.2
Weather:  Mild, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bars.
  Dinner:  Noodles and egg, pop tarts, chips.
Aches:  Both heels, right shoulder.
Animals Seen:  Two deer, cows, dogs.
People Seen:  About ten.

Journal:
Got up at 6:10am and away by 7:40am.  Decided not to bandage feet, just Mercurochrome and Vaseline.  Both heels were still very sore and I started slow.  The left Achilles just feels like old times!  The weather was cool, which was good, and the Trail was good and easy walking through forest along the ridge.  Occasionally it was possible to see down to the farms in the valleys. I started slow and Stu went ahead.  In late morning the Trail descended to a road which I walked along for about 4 miles. It was quite pleasant despite being chased by a few dogs.  The Trail then climbed steeply up over a hill then along another pretty ridge before descending towards another road through a lovely open field in the warm sun.  I found Stu having lunch in the sun and joined him.  Stu left early and decided to detour to a nearby grocery where he offered to get me a Coke and chips for dinner.  I carried on after lunch with ½ a mile of road walking before following a lovely easy graded ascent through glades, open forest and sometimes on pine needles.  My feet felt a little better towards the end though my right shoe now has a big hole in the sole. I reached Wapiti II Shelter at 5:40pm and had a cold wash in a nearby stream before a leisurely dinner on a lovely evening augmented by my Coke and chips.

Appalachian Trail - Day 031

Day:  031
Date:  Monday, 2 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.8
Daily Other Miles:  0.7 (0.3 Shelter, 0.4 Spring)
Total AT Miles:  573.5
Total All Miles:  589.8
Weather:  Very warm, humid, partly sunny in afternoon.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health drink.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, pop tarts.
Aches:  Both heels, front of feet.
Animals Seen:  Grouse, deer.
People Seen:  One day hiker, two overnight hikers, couple of cars.

Journal:
Got up at 6:10am and after treating feet and breakfast got away at 8:00am.  Ken and Lewis left at 7:00am but we caught them after about 6 miles.  The Trail was fairly easy going, being mainly downhill, and again was mainly on a ridge with occasional views down to the farms in the valleys.  It was again through forest with many flowers.  While stopped for my morning break (Stu had gone on ahead) at Jenkins Shelter (lots of mosquitoes) I met a day hiker who belonged to a club responsible for maintaining the Trail around Atkins.  We discussed the cow pastures.  They were having a work bee next weekend to try and improve it.  From the Shelter the Trail descended to Laurel Creek (everything’s laurel-something) and passed through boggy swampy country with many creek crossings.  At one I found Stu stopped for a wash and lunch as well as a father/son overnight hiker team.  I stopped too.  After lunch the Trail climbed steadily up on to the ridge againwith some of it sloping left to right hurting my feet a lot.  Most of the time it was good, however.  At a rest stop I accidentally knocked a water bottle off the track and it crashed off down the very steep hillside.  I didn’t bother chasing it as I could hear it crashing for a long time.  The Trail descended to cross a road and freeway (I-77).  Somewhere around here, Barb and I crossed the AT on our way to West Virginia.  I got a toot from a semi-trailer on the freeway as I crossed overhead.  From there it was a couple of miles uphill to the turn-off then ¼ mile to Helveys Mill Shelter which was very nice including a table.  Stu already had a fire going.  It was a long steep walk down to a stream for water that my sore feet didn’t appreciate.  At least I was a bit earlier than last night and had time for a leisurely dinner before retiring at 9:15pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 030

Day:  030
Date:  Sunday, 1 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.8
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  548.7
Total All Miles:  564.3
Weather:  Sunny, warm, humid.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Sausages and eggs, orange juice
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  Both heels sore.
Animals Seen:  Chipmunks, squirrels.
People Seen:  Four AT hikers (by stages), many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:50am and had a shower and breakfast before leaving at 7:55am after saying goodbye to Stu, Patti and Greyhound (Tom, the Belcher in Hill Street Blues look-a-like) though I expected to see Stu again because he was keen to move a bit faster and was going to make for the same shelter.  The first few miles were very difficult as they followed cow-trodden paths through farms and were very boggy in parts.  Later the Trail left the farmland and began climbing gently onto the forested ridges.  Once again, many flowers were around – azaleas, laurels, rhododendrons. Both feet were sore – the left one now so because I was too cavalier in cutting away skin over a deep blister.  Stu soon caught me and I let him go because my progress was slow though we met many times during the day.  There were a few tough hills which made my feet hurt.  At about 1pm, we came out onto a country road and the Trail followed that for some time.  We passed pretty farm houses and waved and chatted to a few of the friendly inhabitants.  We stopped for lunch in a picnic area before negotiating a long hill up to Chestnut Ridge.  On the crest of the ridge the trees disappeared and there were good views in the late afternoon haze of surrounding ridges.  The guidebooks told us that there was no water at Chestnut Knob Shelter so we stopped at a spring 1.8 miles before the shelter and filled our water bottles and bags.  They were heavy and made it a long slog uphill (gradual) to the shelter.  When we arrived (Stu first) two other hikers, also northbound, were in residence.  There was Ken (~60) and Lewis (~45), the latter suffering from a withered left shoulder and arm which made it hard for him to carry a pack.  We got a fire going after our 7:30pm arrival and managed to cook dinner while chatting to Ken, who was interested in our trip and had hiked about half of the AT.  He promised to send us a carved boot if we notified him we had finished the AT.  Bunk space in the old stone cabin on top of the ridge was limited and I slept on the table and didn’t have a real good night when we retired at 9:30pm.  Ken and Lewis went to bed earlier and Ken snored.