In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.

Appalachian Trail - Day 090

Day:  090
Date:  Thursday, 31 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  22.6
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (shelter)
Total AT Miles:  1768.8
Total All Miles:  1820.2
Weather:  Mild, overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding, Snickers Bar.
Aches:  None bad.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels.
People Seen:  4 AT Thru-hikers, 3 AT Hikers (by sections).

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a good night’s sleep (cool weather) and left at 7:201m.  It hadn’t rained overnight, but did for a while shortly after I started walking.  The first miles seemed to be short again, but who’s complaining.  I passed “Boater Bill” and caught Larry (who’d apparently walked past me while I was packing) who was talking to a southbound (by sections) AT Hiker. The country was again pretty, mossy woodland, and I was in good spirits for some reason.  I guess I knew I was going to make it to North Woodstock OK.  The ascent of Mount Moosilauke (4800’) followed, but it wasn’t as bad as feared though a bit endless and rocky in parts.  The summit was above the tree-line and, if it hadn’t been cloudy, would have provided good views. Nevertheless, it was enjoyable up there in the fog.  The descent was tiring and interminable.  For a long stretch it followed an attractive cascade and, in many places, steps had been attached to the slippery rock surfaces.  I reached Beaver Brook Shelter at the base and stopped there for lunch at 2pm.  After an hour for lunch, I crossed NH 112 in Kinsman Notch and began the steep ascent of Mount Wolf.  The going was slow along the crest with many rocky and boggy bits, and some relocated trail.  It took longer than I thought it would to eventually reach Eliza Brooks Shelter.  I arrived there at 6:50pm and found it already filled up with four AT Thru-hikers.  I decided to pitch a tent then tried to light a fire with damp wood but was unsuccessful, so resorted to biscuits and peanut butter.  Went to bed at 8:40pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 089

Day:  089
Date:  Wednesday, 30 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.6
Daily Other Miles:  0.9 (0.3 shelter, 0.6 restaurant).
Total AT Miles:  1746.2
Total All Miles:  1797.4
Weather:  Mild, overcast, fog and drizzle.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Cake and ice-cream, cookies.
  Dinner:  Noodles and sauce, instant pudding.
Aches:  None real bad.
Animals Seen:  3 snakes.
People Seen:  1 overnight hiker, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a good night’s sleep.  It had stopped raining.  I packed up and left at 7am, saying goodbye to the others who I’ll probably meet again in the White Mountains.  Everything was extremely wet and rain was forecast.  Fortunately, the Trail was easy and not overgrown.  A lot of it was on roads and woods roads and I made good time – I suspect the miles were short.  I climbed to the top of Smarts Mountain without a break.  It was very steep near the top and the Trail was extremely wet.  It was alpine-like at the top and quite cool and windy.  Fog prevented any views.  I descended down the difficult rocky and wet Trail and then had some more road-walking before the ascent of Mount Cube.  Another wet difficult ascent but, at least this time, I got occasional views through the blowing clouds – they were spectacular.  The descent was especially difficult and dangerous in the wet conditions.  I slipped and fell twice but suffered no damage.  I reached NH 25A at about 2pm and walked the ¼ mile to a small restaurant for lunch.  Unfortunately, pancakes were off at noon and they’d run out of apple pie, so I settled for two plates of cake and ice-cream and six big fresh cookies.  The manageress was very nice.  I left at 3:10pm to walk the remaining 7½ miles I’d planned.  More very wet Trail and hence feet.  Progress was a bit slower but at least more level.  It was through old forest, reclaimed farmland and past weekenders.  I stopped with three miles to go to find there’d been a relocation.  The distance was supposed to be the same but, of course, the new Trail was slow and I didn’t reach NH 25C till 6:40pm.  I crossed it, and then a stream, and found a good campsite on the other side amongst the pines.  I decided to try a fire despite everything being wet and was successful.  I set everything up as quickly as possible because of the forecast rain but, fortunately, it held off and it was a pleasant though hurried evening.  I went to bed at 8:50pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 088

Day:  088
Date:  Tuesday, 29 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  15.5
Daily Other Miles:  1.2 (0.2 shelter, 0.3 spring, 0.4 mistake, 0.3 shelter)
Total AT Miles:  1722.6
Total All Miles:  1772.9
Weather:  Warm, overcast, humid, rain later.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  Left heel sore.
Animals Seen:  3 snakes, chipmunks.
People Seen:  3 AT Thru-hikers, 4 overnight hikers, some others.

Journal:
Had a bad night’s sleep because of indigestion and a monstrous thunderstorm at 2am.  Tent didn’t leak.  Got up at 6am and left at 7:40am with plans to walk 23 miles.  Early progress through conifer forest was slow and I had to make a detour for water from a spring.  Rain threatened and was forecast, but it was hot and humid.  Once again, I felt enervated and found it hard going.  It’s hard to know whether it’s physical or mental.  I kept plugging away on the Trail, which was always fairly close to civilization, and passed through a number of boggy areas so my feet became wet again and my left outside heel became quite sore.  I began to ponder the merits of stopping early for a restful day in the hope my attitude would improve.  I would still be on schedule for North Woodstock for midday Friday as planned.  The Trail passed over Moose Mountain which was enshrouded in fog so no views.  On the descent, the radio warned that severe thunderstorms were on the way with heavy rain.  I decided to push on over the exposed Holts Ledge in the hope of getting to Trapper John’s Shelter before the bad weather hit.  I was tired (pack heavy), but kept going and passed over the Ledge where there was a fog-impaired view before descending to the Shelter.  In residence was Larry, a friendly AT Thru-hiker, and later arrived two overnight hikers then Ruth and Bob, also AT Thru-hikers. The overnight hikers slept in their tent and the rest of us in the Shelter.  I managed to get a fire going and cooked dinner, generally taking my time.  At about 6:45pm, it began raining steadily.

Appalachian Trail - Day 087

Day:  087
Date:  Monday, 28 July 1986.
Daily AT Miles:  22.7
Daily Other Miles:  1.2 (1.0 in Hanover, 0.2 to Shelter).
Total AT Miles:  1707.1
Total All Miles:  1756.2
Weather:  Very warm, cloudy in the morning, sunny in the afternoon, humid.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Oats.
  Lunch:  Sub, fudge brownies, ice-cream, chocolate milk.
  Dinner:  Pizza, ice-cream, orange juice.
Aches:  Feet a bit sore.
Animals Seen:  Chipmunks.
People Seen:  1 AT Thru-hiker, 4 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Woke up at 5:30am after a good night’s sleep to hear it raining lightly outside.  It was very tempting to roll over and go back to sleep.  I got up and packed up using the shelter of my suspended groundsheet, but it had really more or less stopped.  I ate the last of my oats for breakfast and set off at 7am through damp undergrowth.  The Trail wound around through the wet dripping forest across pastures and through bogs, so it didn’t take long for my feet to become thoroughly saturated.  I aimed to walk the 12 miles to West Hartford taking only short breaks and arrived at the general store there at about noon.  I bought myself a big lunch.  Another Thru-Hiker who had spent last night at Cloudland Shelter (I passed it mid-morning) turned up and we chatted briefly while we sat on the bench outside the store and ate.  (He had hitched from Dalton to Killington because he said he had walked that section before.)  I left at 1:10pm to walk the remaining ten miles to Hanover, the first town in New Hampshire, where I planned to resupply.  The calories I ate for lunch seemed to give me a boost and the time passed fairly quickly as the day became sunny hot and humid.  I stopped at Norwich Post Office en route and posted off some used maps.  The Trail crossed the pretty Connecticut River where people were swimming and climbed into the pretty college (Dartmouth) town.  There were lots of joggers out.  I was undecided whether to stop at an Inn in town or keep moving, after buying groceries, to the next Shelter.  I also had to ring Peter and John C.  I felt that, after the last expensive motel, another Inn was not really justified. Also, if I stayed, I would probably call Barb in the morning – more expense.  I walked through town and ½ a mile out the other side before I knew it.  There I found a supermarket and did my shopping and then repacked it on a bench in the foyer.  By this time it was 6:10pm, and I decided to have dinner, make the calls, and keep moving.  I walked back into town – very swanky, full of students and beautiful people, and had a pizza in a shop.  I made my calls and arranged to meet Marj (aunt) and Peter (cousin) next Friday night at Cascade Inn in North Woodstock and call John C from Pinkham Notch in a week.  I then went to another supermarket, bought some ice-cream for dessert and another quart of orange juice (we’ll see what half a gallon of orange juice does for me tomorrow!), then walked out of town in the gathering dusk at 8:10pm.  I arrived at Velvet Rocks Shelter at 8:45pm – almost dark.  There was no-one there (it looked like a nice spot).  I quickly set up the tent, ate the ice-cream, drank the orange juice, had a wash, hung everything up, and retired at 9:20pm to update my diary and sleep.  Not such a bad day.

Appalachian Trail - Day 086

Day:  086
Date:  Sunday, 27 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  17.9
Daily Other Miles:  0.4 (motel)
Total AT Miles:  1684.4
Total All Miles:  1732.3
Weather:  Warm, humid, some rain, overcast.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Orange juice, oats, omelette, chips, sausages.
  Lunch:  None.
  Dinner:  Biscuits and peanut butter, oats.
Aches:  None bad.
Animals Seen:  None.
People Seen:  1 overnight hiker, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 9am after a good sleep and went and had a big breakfast before paying the bill and leaving at 10:50am.  It wasn’t raining, but looked ominous.  I had tried to ring John C twice without luck.  I was going to try for about 20 miles and do without lunch since my last biscuits would be required for dinner as all wood would be too wet for a cooked dinner.  The spirits were low as I left the comfortable indoors for the rough life.  I still seemed to be very tired and felt the need of a day off but must keep moving to meet Peter.  The Trail was very boggy and the undergrowth wet as I made my way around Kent Pond and, after a mile, I found the Inn I should have found last night.  Too bad.  There was some road-walking before a solid and wet climb up over a ridge and down the other side.  In places, the Trail was flooded by the adjacent creeks.  I divided the day into three six-mile sections and just plodded along trying not to think where I’d rather be, or about the weeks still to go.  There were some very tough climbs and very wet trails (rivers) through the pretty and wet forest.  At about 6pm it began raining very heavily and it looked like I would be setting up camp in the rain.  There were no Shelters within range.  The Trail had been re-routed so an expected spring wasn’t on the Trail.  I only had a bottle and a bit of water.  I reached the summit of Dana Hill and decided to stop at 6:40pm.  Fortunately, the rain had all but stopped as I set up camp.  I decided to get into bed and eat my dinner of biscuits and peanut butter and oats.  I ate it while listening to some excellent church choral music (it was Sunday) on my Walkman.  Lights out at 9pm.  Not a great day.  Maybe tomorrow will be better.

Appalachian Trail - Day 085

Day:  085
Date:  Saturday, 26 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  21.4
Daily Other Miles:  0.4 (to Killington Peak)
Total AT Miles:  1666.5
Total All Miles:  1714.0
Weather:  Very warm, humid, overcast, rain late.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Soup, veal, ice-cream.
Aches:  None bad.
Animals Seen:  Small snake, chipmunks.
People Seen:  2 overnight hikers, 8 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a bad night because of mozzies and heat.  Felt tired straight away – already warm.  Set off at 7am for a relatively short day which, however, incorporated Killington Peak (4250’).  I decided to aim for Killington for lunch (there’s supposed to be a cafeteria on top), which meant a relatively short morning.  However, the bad night’s sleep seemed to have pushed me over the edge into “over-trained” and, even with a light pack, I struggled all morning.  It was foggy, so no views, but the higher altitude forest was pretty and “fairy-tale”.  There was a “blue blaze” (side-trail) 0.2 miles very steep trail to the summit from the AT.  I reached there at 1:30pm and struggled up the climb only to find the whole resort closed – presumably because of the fog and wind.  I walked back down to the AT and Cooper Lodge where I met two girl day-hikers and a guy, Todd, who had started hiking the AT two days before me, but had finished at Harpers Ferry and was now doing a few of the northern sections.  I had passed him at Rainbow Springs.  He had travelled with Lisa for six weeks, and others, and could fill me in on how they were going.  He said he would probably see me in the White Mountains and maybe Katahdin (northern end of the AT), from where he might be able to give me a lift to Boston.  We chatted over lunch after which, at 2:30pm, I set off down the mountain.  I planned to stop at the Inn on the Long Trail for the night and arrived there, very tired, at 4:40pm.  Unfortunately, they didn’t provide evening meals so I decided to walk another two miles to another Inn.  I was very tired and not pleased to lose the Trail in rough terrain at one point, costing me 15 minutes, and then to be hit by torrential rain just before reaching the road where the Inn was supposed to be.  The Guide Book details were confusing and I got saturated before going into an expensive-looking motel where I took a room despite the $40 price tag.  I ate a lot of peanuts in the bar before having a nice dinner.  I rang my cousin, Peter, to say I was thinking of putting back my meeting with them in the White Mountains by one day.  I had decided that, if the mountains or Trail got worse, I would have to work very hard to reach Franconia Notch on time. Better to give myself the rest, even if it means a day later at Katahdin.  I watched TV and rinsed out my clothes.  Running short of food and, given likely wet conditions tomorrow, I decided to sleep in and have a late breakfast (no early breakfasts at the motel) before heading off for a long afternoon.  Turned off the TV at 12:15am.

Appalachian Trail - Day 084

Day:  084
Date:  Friday, 25 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  25.3
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (shelter)
Total AT Miles:  1645.1
Total All Miles:  1692.2
Weather:  Hot, humid, overcast.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, Quik
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter.
  Dinner:  Noodles, instant pudding.
Aches:  None bad.
Animals Seen:  Chipmunks.
People Seen:  15 day hikers, 8 overnight hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and left soon after 7am after spending some time itinerary planning.  Figured out that I can probably last until Hanover before buying food if I stay at the Inn at Kent Pond.  If so, it mans a lighter pack for the climb over Killington.  It was a warm morning made a little bearable by a strong breeze.  The Trail was high on a ridge for quite a long time.  The vegetation is becoming conifer-dominated at altitude.  I was in good spirits (lighter pack) and made good time.  The Trail was occasionally rocky and boggy, but soft underfoot is good for the feet.  The Trail passed Griffith Lake, an attractive pond, and later the even more attractive Little Rock Pond.  In between, it gave excellent views from Baker Peak.  Despite some fatigue, I pushed on to a late lunch at the pretty Greenwall Shelter before negotiating the last 4½ miles to Minerva Hinchey Shelter.  Rain was forecast and it looked threatening, but held off.  Yet another Shelter to myself.  I wasted 20 minutes finding the spring (wrong directions in guide book) but, apart from that, washed and had dinner as normal and retired by 9pm.  Just 500 miles to go.  There’s a few mozzies around.

Appalachian Trail - Day 083

Day:  083
Date:  Thursday, 24 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.0
Daily Other Miles:  0.3 (shelters)
Total AT Miles:  1619.8
Total All Miles:  1666.7
Weather:  Very warm, humid, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Fettucine, instant pudding.
Aches:  Right foot sore, right back chafed.
Animals Seen:  Chipmunks.
People Seen:  10 overnight hikers, 4 day hikers.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a disturbed night.  Woke at 11pm first because I was too hot, so applied insect repellent to legs and opened out my sleeping bag.  The woken at 3pm by a porcupine chewing on the Shelter.  It left when I shone the torch on it.  I realised then that the rocks I had seen lined up along the inside walls of the Shelter were for throwing at porcupines!  I left at 7:10am and passed the nearby Caughnawaga Shelter where it looked like a single female was in residence (bathing suit hanging up) but she was nowhere to be seen.  I continued on quite a warm morning but nice in the green forest.  My right little toe was still sore so, at my first break, I changed into my spare New Balance running shoes.  They were an improvement, though made my feet hot.  I made good time to the attractive Stratton Pond and had my morning break there.  Couldn’t be bothered going for a swim.  Continued on along the reasonable Trail through pretty woodland.  Feeling a bit tired and thinking a lot about finishing. Passed a girl doing trail maintenance then a group of young hikers and their leaders just before I reached Spruce Peak Shelter where I had a late lunch at 3pm.  The group turned up to stay for the night and I chatted to a few of them while eating and resting.  I set off at 4pm to cover the remaining six miles to Mad Tom Shelter which included a solid climb up the 3260’ Bromley Mountain.  Because of the humidity, it was hazy and the views were nowhere near as good as yesterday.  Another mile brought me to the Shelter.  The spring was almost dry, but I decided to stay and boil water.  The Shelter faced west and I had a fine view of the sun setting in the haze.  Went to bed at 9pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 082

Day:  082
Date:  Wednesday, 23 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.2
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1595.8
Total All Miles:  1642.4
Weather:  Very warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut, health bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  Right little toe and right foot sore.
Animals Seen:  Porcupine.
People Seen:  4 overnight hikers, 5 day hikers, some others.

Journal:
To give myself eight hours sleep, I waited till 6am to get up then took longer than usual to leave because I still had to repack my muesli and gorp.  I left just before 8am and set out on a beautiful day, even a little cool at the start.  The Trail was fairly easy walking and I made good time despite my right little toe still hurting a lot and placing a lot of strain on my right foot as a whole.  There was a steep rocky descent from Harmon Hill to VT 9 where I took my morning break next to a stream.  As I set out up the mountain on the other side, I met a little man with paint brush and pail who was putting the blaze marks on trees for the Trail.  The climb was steady but, for some reason, I was in better spirits today and it didn’t bother me and I still made good progress despite limping.  I had a late lunch at 3pm with only a little over six miles to go to my target Shelter.  It had warmed up, but was still quite pleasant walking in the forest – I guess a bit of altitude helped.  At the top of Glastonbury Mountain (3750’), I climbed the old fire tower which gave absolutely superb views in every direction. Lots of mountains and the Green Mountains National Forest.  It was great.  It was then a fairly rocky descent to Kid Gore Shelter where I arrived at 6:50pm.  Had it to myself.  A porcupine visited after dinner.  Decided to sleep without the tent – nowhere to pitch it – and hope the bugs aren’t too bad.  Went to bed at about 9pm.  Not a bad day.

Appalachian Trail - Day 081

Day:  081
Date:  Tuesday, 22 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  16.1
Daily Other Miles:  1.0 (to laundry and supermarket)
Total AT Miles:  1572.6
Total All Miles:  1619.2
Weather:  Very warm, sunny, moderately humid.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Porridge, scrambled eggs.
  Lunch:  Burgers, fries, donuts.
  Dinner:  Fettucine, instant pudding.
Aches:  Right little toe extremely sore.
Animals Seen:  Chipmunks.
People Seen:  1 day hiker, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 7am and was still undecided whether to try and ring Barb or not.  Had breakfast at the long table again and decided to ring, which I did at 8am.  Found out I’m booked to fly out on August 30th, arriving in Melbourne on September 1st.  I finished packing and left at 9am with the plan of hiking down to North Adams, seven miles away, to do laundry and shopping.  Outside the Lodge, I met the two AT Thru-hikers from yesterday again.  The trip down the mountain was hard on the feet but provided some good views and pleasant walking on a perfect day.  I had to walk ½ a mile off the Trail to the laundry and supermarket, and left my laundry going and pack there while I did my shopping.  I returned to the laundry and repacked my groceries while the laundry dried.  After that, I walked down to a hamburger joint and had lunch.  Met the two AT Thru-hikers again, and chatted while eating.  I left at 1:45pm with 14½ miles to go to my planned Shelter, which meant I would be late.  As the Trail climbed up into the mountains, my little toe on right foot began hurting a bit.  I reached the Vermont border with the pain becoming severe for no apparent reason.  There didn’t seem to be a blister.  I tried a few things and continued walking, but painfully and with a limp.  I decided that I would have to stop around 7pm and get my shoes off.  I filled my water bottles at a spring and found a small campsite near a beaver pond and stopped at 6:50pm.  The fire was slow and I didn’t get into the tent until 9:10pm.  I was short by 4½ miles of my target and desperately hoping the toe would be better tomorrow, otherwise I would fall further behind.  I hope it’s not an infection.

Appalachian Trail - Day 080

Day:  080
Date:  Monday, 21 July 1986.
Daily AT Miles:  21.7
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1556.5
Total All Miles:  1602.1
Weather:  Warm, humid, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  “Sub”, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Soup, macaroni cheese, strawberry shortcake.
Aches:  None bad.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, rabbits.
People Seen:  2 AT Thru-hikers, ~ 20 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after there had only been a few brief showers overnight, and everything was reasonably dry.  I left soon after 7am with the intention of walking to Cheshire, 14 miles away, in three sessions with short breaks between.  My pack was light and, although it was still humid, I made good time.  I reached Dalton after 4½ miles, including a couple of miles road-walking and, while passing through the town, found a grocery by the Trail so stopped for a quart of orange juice and a pint of ice-cream before continuing on.  As I left town, I passed two AT Thru-hikers, Evelyn and Wayne, returning to the Trail after four days off. I exchanged pleasantries and continued on.  The Trail climbed out of town up to a bumpy ridge.  Much of it was new and therefore tiring.  It passed by a pretty pond and one good viewpoint and was quite boggy in parts.  I decided to ring Jayne and recommend her parents go for their planned hike elsewhere.  I arrived at Cheshire Post Office at 12:20pm and collected a good swag of mail, including a mysterious box which turned out to contain my fold-up knapsack that I’d lost somewhere.  “GEOKA” had found it and mailed it to a Post Office up the Trail.  It had been forwarded twice and caught me in the end.  Pleased.  I walked through the town and found a supermarket where I bought a “sub” for lunch, as well as ice-cream, and then sat in a chair outside and ate and read my letters.  Very pleasant.  At about 2pm, I set out to walk the eight miles up Mount Greylock (3500’) to the AMC’s Bascom Lodge, where I planned to spend the night.  I’d rung up and booked already.  Despite the uphill climb, a light pack made for good time and I arrived at 5:10pm.  There were excellent views in most directions from the peak and it was a beautiful evening.  I got my room, showered, and came down for 6pm dinner.  Unfortunately, it was pasta!  We all sat at a long table and I chatted with other guests and AMC workers.  One gril had just been to Australia.  After dinner, I wrote letters to Barb and Alan, phoned Jayne and tried to phone John C.  I went to bed at 10:15pm and spent 45 minutes reading the Syntec(former employer) and Kew Camberwell District (athletic club) newletters and Pete’s Australian newspaper clippings (including weather forecasts!) I had received in the mail so I wouldn’t have to carry them tomorrow.

Appalachian Trail - Day 079

Day:  079
Date:  Sunday, 20 July 1986.
Daily AT Miles:  25.5
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1534.8
Total All Miles:  1580.4
Weather:  Warm, humid, overcast.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, chocolate bar.
  Dinner:  Fettucine, pop tarts.
Aches:  None that are very bad.
Animals Seen:  Chipmunks.
People Seen:  1 AT Thru-hiker, 1 overnight hiker, 4 day hikers, some others.

Journal:
I got up at 5:30am to find all my clothes still wet from the wash I had given them the previous night (to try and reduce chafing), but I put them on anyway.  I left at 7:10am after exchanging addresses with Liz.  Both she and Matt were a bit sheepish after the night’s excitement.  I hoped to cover a lot of miles and fortunately it was cool early and there was a lot of road-walking.  My pack was starting to feel lighter too.  The road-walk took me along some lovely country lanes past some beautiful mansions set amongst the hills (The Berkshires) with manicured lawns and reflecting ponds.  I passed through the attractive little village of Tyringham, then climbed up onto another ridge along roads and forest roads which made the going quicker.  The Trail passed the attractive Goose Pond, then Upper Goose Pond.  It was still very muggy and mozzies were about, but the heavy overcast reduced the heat a little.  While walking, I listened on my Walkman to a live broadcast of an outdoor concert by the Boston Symphony Orchestra from their summer home at Tanglewood, only a few miles away as the crow flies.  It was great listening to Wagner’s Ride of the Valkyries as I strode through the forest along the ridge, knowing it was being performed nearby.  At about 3pm, I overtook “Jeannie the Bag Lady” and saw her again when I stopped at October Mountain Lean-To for a very late lunch. The feet seemed to be standing the strain better today, despite having to carry four full water bottles because of the lack of good water – there were plenty of bogs.  The clouds were looking ominous from about 6pm, but I pushed on to 6:45pm, when I found a nice campsite, having achieved my mileage target.  I set up the tarp over the tent in preparation for rain that didn’t come, had dinner and adjourned to the tent at 8:30pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 078

Day:  078
Date:  Saturday, 19 July 1986.
Daily AT Miles:  21.4
Daily Other Miles:  0.4 (0.2 Shelter, 0.2 spring)
Total AT Miles:  1509.3
Total All Miles:  1554.9
Weather:  Very warm, very humid, hazy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, chocolate bar.
  Dinner:  Fettucine, instant pudding.
Aches:  Foot problems, bad chafing all over.
Animals Seen:  Deer, small snake.
People Seen:  12 overnight hikers, 7 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
I woke up at 5am, when the others began stirring, and got up at 5:30am after a bad night’s sleep.  I resolved to sleep in my tent on future warm nights.  Chafing was also hurting a lot.  I left at 7am on what I hoped would be an easy day of about 21 miles with no big hills.  However, it was going to be another triple H day, which would make it unpleasant.  The first four miles were slow going over, and down, Jug End to a road where I replenished my water at a spring.  While resting, two joggers went past (I wish I was just out for a jog) and some pre-breakfast walkers.  My mind was much pre-occupied with how much further I had to go all day.  It will be nice to finish.  There were some fields to be crossed and a mozzie-infested forest before a fairly long road-walk.  After the road-walk, there was another mountain to go over.  Sweat was pouring off me and my chafing was getting very bad despite heaps of Vaseline.  There followed another brief road-walk, at the end of which I had lunch at about 2:30pm leaning against a lamp-post on a quiet lane.  Very pleasant and I nearly went to sleep.  The final six miles involved negotiating another sweaty mountain to reach the Mount Wilcox North Shelter where I arrived at 6pm.  The mozzies were bad, so I had a wash in the adjacent pond and donned long pants and shirt for protection before cooking dinner and erecting my tent.  Too many mozzies to sleep in the Shelter.  AMC ridge-runner, Liz, and boyfriend, Matt, arrived during dinner and we chatted while we ate.  Matt had not been hiking overnight before, and Liz spent a lot of time explaining to him the rules of “leave no trace” camping, including not washing clothes in water sources (which I had clearly done, as my clothes were hanging out to dry near the stream) and going to the loo well away from water sources and the camp area.  I got into bed at 8:30pm (mozzies getting bad) and did my diary before going to sleep at 9pm.  During the night, I was woken by shouting.  Matt had gone to the loo and got lost in the dark.  He only found his way back after wandering around for a long time then resorting to shouting for help.  Eventually, he woke Liz and me and Liz shouted in reply directing him back to camp.  It was all a bit sad – both were very upset.

Appalachian Trail - Day 077

Day:  077
Date:  Friday, 18 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.3
Daily Other Miles:  0.4 (0.2 to spring, 0.2 to Shelter)
Total AT Miles:  1487.9
Total All Miles:  1533.1
Weather:  Very warm, humid, partly cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Omelette, sausages, fries, orange juice, ice-cream.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, candy bar.
  Dinner:  Noodles and vegetables, instant pudding.
Aches:  Right foot, chafing.
Animals Seen:  2 small snakes, deer, grouse, chipmunks, squirrels.
People Seen:  5 AT-Thru-hikers (1 by sections), 2 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:30am to give myself eight hours sleep and packed up and left by 7:30am without breakfast because there was a diner just up the Trail.  Although only two miles, it included a tough climb over Barrack Mountain.  At the diner, I had a large breakfast before setting off for the remainder of what promised to be a hot humid day.  Initially, there was a fair bit of road-walking as the Trail crossed back to the west bank of the Housatonic.  As usual, I didn’t really mind the road-walk since I made better time and there were things to look at along the way.  After the road, the Trail began climbing into the mountains and progress slowed.  It was nice scenery in the forest, but marred by the hot humid weather which left me constantly sweating, and the bugs, especially mozzies, which tormented me.  The sweat was washing off the repellent and I began to wonder if I would run out.  Life wasn’t very pleasant.  To top it off, the old blister next to the right big toe was hurting again and causing me to walk awkwardly.  The views from the mountains were reduced by the heavy haze.  I stopped for a late lunch at Sage’s Ravine, a beautiful shady glen.  After that I pushed on another seven miles of slow progress over two mountains (Race and Everett) passing en route AT Thru-hikers, Stan and Linda Brooks, who were camped by the Trail.  A Connecticut AMC ridge-runner at Sage’s Ravine had told me of a new Shelter, Glenbrook, which was my target.  I eventually arrived there at 7:10pm to find already in residence “The Man Who Dares”, “Appalachian Al”, and Roy (all northbound, Roy by sections).  They were really nice guys and we had a good chat.  I was amused by “The Man Who Dares” wearing pyjamas (and slippers) to bed, and apparently being accompanied much of the time by his father in a Recreation Vehicle.  I went to bed at 9pm, a little worried about the warm night and bugs.

Appalachian Trail - Day 076

Day:  076
Date:  Thursday, 17 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  20.7
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1464.6
Total All Miles:  1509.4
Weather:  Very warm, humid, overcast.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Toast and jam, ice-cream.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, Snickers Bar.
  Dinner:  Snickers Bar, instant pudding.
Aches:  Right foot blister again, hips chafed.
Animals Seen:  Chipmunks, small snake.
People Seen:  2 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 8am and had some breakfast with Jayne and her parents.  We took our time and left at 9:45am to drive me back to Cornwall Bridge from Granby.  We arrived at 11am and, after going to the Post Office, I bought some ice-cream and chocolate milk before moving off on a warm humid day with approximately 20 miles to go to my target campsite.  No fires allowed in Connecticut, so I knew I would be eating cold for dinner and hence could arrive late.  The Trail started by following a lane up to the crest of a ridge and then, for the rest of the day, was fairly easy going through pretty forest – some deciduous, some conifer, with a pine needle-covered floor.  Occasionally, there was some nice road-walking and, though there was pretty scenery, there were only a few views.  It was very pleasant except for the mosquitoes – I’m afraid I’m going to run out of repellent.  I had lunch at 3pm in a picnic area en route and then walked approximately 12 miles to Deans Ravine, one of the designated camp areas, where I arrived at 8:15pm.  It was already getting dark as I hurriedly collected and purified water from the stream which flowed through the beautiful valley, ate a skimpy dinner, put up my tent and tarpaulin (40% chance of rain), and had a wash before getting into bed at 9:30pm.  Updated diary and went to sleep at 10pm.  A bit worried that the old blister between my right big toe and second toe is sore again.  Spent a lot of the day pre-occupied with reaching the end, having decided the likely completion date will be August 21st and having spent a day at Jayne’s and seeing all the comforts I’m forgoing was unsettling.  I think I was lucky the Trail wasn’t harder today.

Appalachian Trail - Day 075

Day:  075
Date:  Wednesday, 16 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  0
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1443.9
Total All Miles:  1488.7
Weather:  Very warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Porridge, scrambled eggs, orange juice.
  Lunch:  Cottage pie, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  ?
Aches:  None.
Animals Seen:  None.
People Seen:  Some.

Journal:
Got up at 7:45am after a poor night’s sleep and tried to ring John Cederholm again.  No answer.  Tried to ring Barb.  No answer. I then spent another 45 minutes working on my itinerary then tried calling John at work.  He’s on holiday till next Monday.  Then rang Barb and talked for a while.  We decided she would book me a flight from Boston to Melbourne to arrive on September 1st.  I also gave her some proposed meeting places and dates to give Bo.  She sounded though she’ll be glad when I get home.  After cooking myself breakfast (Jayne was out), I spent the morning planning, washing and drying out damp gear.  Jayne returned at 11am and then left at 1pm to take her in-laws to Boston to fly home and collect her parents.  I spent the afternoon eating, watching TV and doing chores.  I then cooked my own dinner as Jayne wasn’t expected back until 9:30pm.  After dinner, I finished chores and packed up ready for tomorrow’s departure.  Jayne arrived home at 9:40pm and I spent a few hours talking to her jet-lagged parents and watching TV before going to bed at midnight.

Appalachian Trail - Day 074

Day:  074
Date:  Tuesday, 15 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.9
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1443.9
Total All Miles:  1488.7
Weather:  Very warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, Mars Bar.
  Dinner:  Cottage pie, vegetables, ice-cream and fruit.
Aches:  Toes sore.
Animals Seen:  Deer, snake, chipmunks.
People Seen:  AT trail crew, 2 AT Hikers (southbound, by sections), 9 overnight hikers, 2 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and left at 7am with the Shelter’s other resident still in bed – he told me the night before he was an early riser.  I’d disturbed him at both ends of the night!  It was a beautiful morning and after a mile I passed into Connecticut. The Trail passed through some farmland and climbed a short sharp mountain which tired me.  It then descended and crossed a bridge over 10 Mile River, a beautiful spot, and followed the Housatonic River through beautiful conifer forest.  The Trail reached a road and I met a Connecticut Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) trail crew who were about to resume work on a relocation.  We chatted for a while.  There was then a 2½ mile road-walk before a couple of tough hills with views from the tops over the lovely Housatonic Valley.  The hills were wearing me out and I was a bit worried that I’m losing condition.  It also meant that I was losing time on the way to meet Jayne at Cornwall Bridge.  Just before lunch, I met a couple of south-bounder AT Hikers in company with an AMC ridge-runner – a hiker paid by the AMC to monitor the Trail.  I had lunch on a rock ledge giving a magnificent view before making a steep descent to the river.  The Trail then more or less followed the river on a level path upstream to Cornwall Bridge.  I arrived there at 6:10pm and was met by Jayne and her mother-in-law.  We then drove back to their house at Granby, about an hour’s drive.  We stopped at a supermarket and I shopped for the next few days.  On arrival I met Jayne’s father-in-law.  Both in mid-70s.  We had a good dinner of cottage pie.  I rang my cousin Peter in Boston and he said he still hoped to hike with me for a few days.  I said I would ring back tomorrow night with some suggestions.  I couldn’t get in touch with John Cederholm, a Boston friend who also had expressed interest in joining me for a few days on the Trail.  After dinner, I watched TV and chatted with Jayne and her in-laws.  Went to bed at 11:30pm, but had trouble sleeping after a bit of trip planning.

Appalachian Trail - Day 073

Day:  073
Date:  Monday, 14 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  26.8
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (spring).
Total AT Miles:  1420.0
Total All Miles:  1464.8
Weather:  Warm, partly cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Tuna salad roll, donuts, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Broccoli soup, stuffed cabbage, ice-cream.
Aches:  4th toe on left foot sore and right lower back.
Animals Seen:  Deer, groundhogs, squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen:  2 AT Thru-hikers, 2 AT Hikers (southbound by sections), 4 overnight hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and left at 7am on a beautiful sunny morning with a big day ahead.  Everything was wet from rain and it was cool in the forest though promising to warm up.  The Trail was fairly easy going through the forest following ridges.  After nine miles (some of which seemed a bit long), I reached Morgan Stewart Shelter and met “Timber Jack” and “Professional Radical” (Carol) together with two young couples who I think they were travelling with for two days.  They were only having breakfast, having had a late rowdy night.  They were very friendly and I’ll probably see them again after my planned day off at Jayne’s.  I left and moved on 4½ miles to NY 55 where there was a large grocery.  I didn’t need any provisions, but went in to get some lunch and came out with a big tuna salad “hero” (roll), two donuts, a pint of ice-cream, a pint of chocolate milk and a can of Coke, all of which I consumed sitting on the pavement watching the world go by – one of my favourite occupations.  At 2pm, I set off for NY 22, 7½ miles away.  The first 3½ were quite pleasant road-walking (as had the last 1½ miles to NY 55). Apparently the National Parks Service have purchased an old nuclear reactor site nearby (where there had been an accident) to re-route the Trail, but there was local opposition to that and the compulsory acquisition of other necessary land.  After the road, the Trail again went through nice forest and across some attractive farmland before reaching NY 22 and the Quality Ridge Inn.  I reached there at 4:45pm, and dinner wasn’t served until 5:30pm but, with 6 miles to go to the Shelter, I thought I could afford the time.  I spent a pleasant 1½ hours sitting at the bar, drinking Coke, talking, eating and watching TV.  Before leaving, I called Jayne and confirmed a 6:30pm pick-up at Cornwall Bridge tomorrow night.  The six miles passed relatively easily (my feet are in much better shape) and I arrived at Wiley Shelter at 8:30pm.  A southbound by sections AT Hiker was in residence and possibly asleep. I set up camp, had a wash and retired at 9pm, updating the diary by torchlight before going to sleep.

Appalachian Trail - Day 072

Day:  072
Date:  Sunday, 13 July 1986.
Daily AT Miles:  18.8
Daily Other Miles:  0.3 (from Graymoors).
Total AT Miles:  1393.2
Total All Miles:  1437.8
Weather:  Foggy, rain and drizzle, mild.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Fruit, eggs and sausages, orange juice, donuts.
  Lunch:  None.
  Dinner:  Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding.
Aches:  None bad.
Animals Seen:  Deer, squirrels, groundhogs, rabbits.
People Seen:  2 day hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 7:30am and, after a pleasant breakfast with the monks and Bob and Jenny, left Graymoors at 9am.  An interesting and worthwhile visit.  The weather was poor, fog and drizzle, and I altered my schedule for the next three days so I could stay in Shelters.  This meant an easy day today and a long one tomorrow.  I decided not to try and ring Clio from the Monastery because it was probably too early for her to know if she was going sailing or not.  I set off with a bit of indigestion from the enormous breakfast I had eaten.  It was drizzling, but not enough to warrant donning my Goretex jacket.  My feet were wet from yesterday’s socks and wet shoes and soon got wetter as I walked through sopping undergrowth.  Despite the wetness it was pleasant walking in the mild weather.  There were a few climbs, occasionally steep, but never that long, and no views because of the fog.  The area, as for the last few days, was historic with traces of farming, mining, etc., dating from the American Revolution.  There were lots of collapsed stone fences and the Trail occasionally followed old railway grades.  You could feel the history of the place.  The miles all seemed a little long, but I was doing it easy and, partly because of the indigestion, decided to forgo lunch (eating my perennial trail snack, “gorp” [sultanas, peanuts and M&Ms], instead), and reach my goal, Ralph’s Peak Hikers Cabin, a little earlier.  There was supposed to be a bike there, and a store a mile away, and I would have a big dinner there.  After climbing over Shenandoah, I descended to the well-marked cabin and arrived at 5:30pm. A note on the door said someone would open it at 6pm.  I sat and started the diary and a very friendly guy from the Club turned up at 5:50pm.  He told me the store was closed and there was nowhere to cook so I accepted that I was going to have a cold dinner but wasn’t too bothered.  The Cabin was well-furnished and promised to be cosy.  Soon after 6pm, thunder sounded and it began to rain heavily.  I was glad I hadn’t stopped for lunch.  I had a cold dinner and wrote the diary by candlelight.

Appalachian Trail - Day 071

Day:  071
Date:  Saturday, 12 July 1986.
Daily AT Miles:  13.7
Daily Other Miles:  1.8 (1.5 to cafĂ©, 0.3 to Monastery)
Total AT Miles:  1374.4
Total All Miles:  1418.7
Weather:  Mild, overcast, raining mostly.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli.
  Lunch:  2 cheeseburgers, fries.
  Dinner:  Hamburgers, salad, fruit.
Aches:  Right knee sore.
Animals Seen:  Deer (including fawns), squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen:  2 AT Thru-hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am after some showers during the night and almost immediately it began to rain steadily. I ate breakfast and packed up in the rain keeping things as dry as I could.  A few things got damp but nothing too bad.  It was the first tent pack up in the rain, so I suppose I have been lucky.  I set off along the muddy path (in some cases “river”) and steadily walked the six miles to Bear Mountain Inn passing over West Mountain and Bear Mountain en route.  No views because of the weather.  I arrived at the Inn at 10:10am to find the cafĂ©, where I had planned to spend a few hours, closed.  I found a covered area in front of the toilets and spent 1½ hours writing my reply to Syntec’s job offer standing up at a wall and getting colder and colder.  Shivering, by the end.  I then walked, in the rain, up to the Post Office which was closed, then back to the now-open cafĂ© where I had some lunch.  It was a big place, filled mostly with blacks whose picnics had been spoiled by the rain.  They were noisy and happy. After lunch, I went to the Inn lobby and left the Syntec letter with them.  I also called Clio, but she couldn’t give me a time when she could meet up, but wanted me to call back tomorrow.  She said she could perhaps make it Monday night.  I’ll probably ring her, though I’ve a few long days ahead of me.  I left the Inn at 1:10pm and walked through the picnic area and zoo (foxes, bears, raccoons) en route to the Bear Mountain Bridge which I used to cross the big Hudson River.  We had driven across it with Rod and Tracey just three months ago – seemed ages.  The rain had more or less stopped as I climbed up to the ridges on the north-east side – a landmark passed.  The Trail was reasonable, the weather cool, and I was in good spirits walking along, singing with my Walkman, and a short afternoon in prospect.  I arrived at Graymoors Franciscan Monastery at 4:30pm and was met by the kindly Father Bosco who arranged a room for me.  I had a shower and went down to dinner at 5:30pm where I met Bob and Jennifer, also AT Thru-hikers, who’d spent the day there because of rain.  Jennifer was walking around the Monastery in short shorts which I’m sure would have been a little distracting to the monks.  They told me about their encounter with the psycho “Fighter Pilot” on the Trail who had threatened to kill them and had harassed them for a few days in New Jersey.  Glad I missed him.  After an ample dinner, I went to my room and wrote a letter before going down to a small lounge to watch TV.  At 9pm I found a Michael Douglas movie called “Running” which was interesting but far-fetched.

Appalachian Trail - Day 070

Day:  070
Date:  Friday, 11 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  13.9
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1361.5
Total All Miles:  1403.2
Weather:  Warm, humid, mostly cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Cereal, eggs, toast.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  Feet a bit sore, right knee sore.
Animals Seen:  Many deer, 2 fawns, squirrels, chipmunks, small snake, grouse.
People Seen:  18 overnight hikers, 1 day hiker, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 8am and, after a shower and Pam-cooked breakfast, said good-bye to Pam and Aidan and left with Gordon at 9:20am. It was sad to be leaving so soon.  Another day off would have been nice and I think nthey would have liked me to stay.  Anyway, it’s good to know they’ll be moving to Melbourne to live next March.  Gordon drove me to the spot near Arden at the entrance to Harriman State Park where I left the AT on Wednesday night.  I started walking at 10:15am on a much more pleasant (cooler) day than recently.  That, plus my feet feeling improved and a day’s rest, had me in good spirits as I negotiated the gentle grades and occasional rocky bluffs of the Park.  There was little undergrowth and spring-like growth on the trees as well as evidence of gypsy moth.  It was pleasant forest.  I only planned to do 12 miles so that tomorrow night I would arrive at GraymoorMonastery.  I stopped for lunch at 1pm then pressed on to the William Brian Shelter, where I planned to spend the night, arriving at 4:30pm.  Unfortunately, the water well was dry and I had little, , so ended up pressing on another few miles and stopping by a pleasant stream in a lovely spot at about 6:10pm.  En route, the Trail passed over Black Mountain and I got superb views of the Hudson River which I will cross tomorrow – a landmark.  I had time for a leisurely dinner though time was spent boiling suspect water for tomorrow’s breakfast.  I went to bed soon after 9pm after a relaxing day. 

Appalachian Trail - Day 069

Day:  069
Date:  Thursday, 10 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  0
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1347.6
Total All Miles:  1389.3
Weather:  Warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Cereal, muffins.
  Lunch:  Salad rolls, muffins.
  Dinner:  Roast lamb, vegetables, ice-cream, jelly.
Aches:  Feet stiff and sore.
Animals Seen:  0
People Seen:  Many.

Journal:
Got up at 8am and called Clio to see if she wanted to come out to the AT.  No conclusion was reached so I left it that I would call again on Saturday.  After breakfast, I spent the morning doing washing and cleaning, updating my diary, trip-planning and playing with the good-natured Aidan.  Gordon came home for lunch and a friend, Celia, and her two children came as well.  A few hours passed chatting and the afternoon went quickly too, as I drafted my reply to Syntec, watched TV and played with Aidan.  After an early dinner, Bo Cocks rang from Australia to say they would be in Maine from August 19 and would like to see me (Bo, the American wife of an Australian work colleague, was the person who had first sparked my interest in the AT).  We worked out some means of contact.  It would be good to see them, but I might almost be finished by August 19th.  Pam then took me to the supermarket and I did my shopping.  On return we all watched TV and talked.  I went to bed at midnight.  It was a very restful day and I feel it has done my feet some good.

Appalachian Trail - Day 068

Day:  068
Date:  Wednesday, 9 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.7
Daily Other Miles:  2.3 (0.6 water, 1.7 Arden)
Total AT Miles:  1347.6
Total All Miles:  1389.3
Weather:  Very warm, very humid, overcast, some showers.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, Mars Bar.
  Dinner:  Pizza, ice-cream.
Aches:  Feet sore.
Animals Seen:  Deer, groundhogs, small snake, squirrels, grouse.
People Seen:  1 day hiker, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am after a showery night.  Didn’t sleep that well.  Set off, still undecided whether to ring Gordon and arrange to stay tonight and tomorrow.  I walked to the side-trail to Wawayanda Visitor Center, arriving there at 8:45am and rang Gordon to see if it would be OK.  He seemed pleased, so we arranged that I would call him from Arden, still 22 miles along the Trail.  It was a very dull humid day and I set off along the Trail hoping that my feet, particularly the right one, would be better in the cooler weather and clean socks.  The Trail was easier on the feet with fewer rocks and flatter rocks and I didn’t push it.  Progress was not all that quick because there seemed to be many escarpments to climb and descend using hands and muscles.  It was quite tiring, but I just kept plugging away and enjoyed the change in terrain.  In some places, the Trail was along the top of long stretches of exposed rock which gave good views over the nearby lakes.  It was obviously a populated area with the sounds of civilization evident and several roads to cross.  I had a late lunch at about 4:10pm and then pressed on non-stop for the last 6½ miles to NY17 near Arden.  More escarpments and progress was slow.  I arrived at the road at 8pm to find the telephone I had been counting on vandalized.  Very tired and not happy, I walked another mile to the small Post Office at Arden along the railway line to where there was supposed to be another phone.  If there was, it was inside and locked.  I walked to NY17 and began to hitch south at 8:30pm.  It was getting dark and I realised I may as well start walking to the next town, 2½ miles away since no-one in New York was going to pick me up after dark.  After a mile, I got a lift from a shift worker to Sloatsburg, about 12 miles down the road, arriving at 9:15pm.  I rang Gordon and then ate a pizza sitting on the footpath watching the world go by while Gordon made the long trip out to get me.  It was quite pleasant sitting there with the prospect of a day off.  Gordon arrived while I was buying some ice-cream and drink and we drove back to his house at Sparkill arriving at 10:30pm.  It was great to see Gordon and Pam again, and Aidan soon woke up and joined in the fun.  We stayed up talking till about 1am and then I went to sleep in Aidan’s room.

Appalachian Trail - Day 067

Day:  067
Date:  Tuesday, 8 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  20.9
Daily Other Miles:  0.8 (to store)
Total AT Miles:  1322.9
Total All Miles:  1362.3
Weather:  Hot, humid, hazy, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli.
  Lunch:  Pizza, pint of ice-cream, quart of orange juice.
  Dinner:  Noodles and vegetables, instant pudding.
Aches:  Feet, particularly toes, very sore.
Animals Seen:  Rabbits, groundhogs.
People Seen:  Many.

Journal:
Got up at 6am, hoping to do 24 miles on another hot day.  Hoping feet better.  Jerry said he planned to do 24 miles too!  We left (the shadow and I) at 7:30am and walked steadily at first through woods then across farm and grazing land for seven miles.  I then said I was going into Unionville (0.4 miles off the AT) in New York to get some supplies and have a snack.  Jerry wasn’t that keen on the detour, but came anyway.  After shopping, we went to the local pub and had an early lunch of pizza (shared). Very friendly barmaid.  We left at 12:30pm in the heat of the day with 17 miles to go.  It was going to be tough.  Jerry wanted to take a short-cut, but I wouldn’t, so he didn’t either.  The Trail went through woods for a while, then across fields then a hot road-walk.  The feet were sore – Jerry’s too.  After the road-walk, there was a solid climb over a ridge then, to our horror, a relocation which was hard going – badly prepared – and cost us a good half hour.  There was then another hot road-walk with my feet killing me.  I removed my inner socks but that seemed to make things worse – perhaps my wool socks needed a wash. I don’t know why the feet were so sore, particularly the toes.  Could be from awkward walking because of exposed skin on old blister, could be the heat, could be dirty socks, could be the rocks.  We were short on water, but got some from a house because the campsite we were aiming for was dry.  We reached the end of the road-walk with six miles to go at 5:30pm.  I decided to change my socks and told Jerry I was only going another three miles then camping.  He said he wanted to go further, so we said friendly farewells and he was off.  The last three miles involved a steep rocky climb to Mount Wawayanda then along its crest. It was slow going and took me until 7:10pm to reach my target campsite next to a suspect stream.  Still, it was a nice spot and I was glad to stop.  If my feet are bad tomorrow, I may try and get to Gordon’s tomorrow night and have a day off, though it will put pressure on me to reach later deadlines.  We’ll see tomorrow.  Went to bed at 9:10pm and spent 40 minutes catching diary up.  Lots of mozzies, very warm and I’m thirsty.  Had better days!  That’s three toughies in a row.  Record temperatures in New York.

Appalachian Trail - Day 066

Day:  066
Date:  Monday, 7 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  19.3
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1302.0
Total All Miles:  1340.6
Weather:  Very hot, humid and hazy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, quart of ice-cream, quart of orange juice, donut.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, Mars Bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  Toes and ex-blister very sore.
Animals Seen:  Chipmunks.
People Seen:  8 overnight hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am and left at 7:30am on a day which again promised to be very hot.  My right foot was sore and I wanted to walk slowly, so I sent a reluctant Jerry ahead of me.  I think he’s worried I might try and give him the slip.  After four miles I reached Worthington’s Bakery, where Jerry was waiting, and supplemented breakfast with a quart of orange juice, a quart of ice-cream, a donut and a Dr Pepper.  We then headed off on a bit of road-walking before the Trail again entered the woods and climbed to a ridge.  Unfortunately, it was again rocky making it slow progress, made worse by the heat and my sore foot.  All in all I was feeling miserable.  Jerry, a nice inoffensive guy, preferred me to lead so he could keep me in his sights, which didn’t help matters – a permanent shadow.  We reached the crest of a ridge and found an old pavilion which had stone floors and was beautifully cool.  We hung around for an unscheduled ½ hour.  The Trail then descended for a few miles and we stopped for lunch at 1:30pm in a car park which had a water pump – lovely icy water.  As we were about to leave, the leader of what turned out to be a seemingly disorganised hike for pre-teen boys arrived headed south.  We met the tired and waterless boys straggled along the Trail as we headed north.  Heat and sore feet and rocky Trail compelled me to have breaks at three miles in the afternoon and we also stopped at Highpoint State Park Visitors Centre for water before the last two miles to Highpoint Shelter. It was a reasonable Shelter, but the heat and mozzies decided us both to sleep in our tents.  We arrived at 6:30pm so had time for a leisurely dinner before retiring at 9pm.  There was a thunderstorm at about 11pm, but the tent did well.

Appalachian Trail - Day 065

Day:  065
Date:  Sunday, 6 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.6
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (shelter)
Total AT Miles:  1282.7
Total All Miles:  1321.3
Weather:  Hot, humid, hazy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Eggs, toast.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, chocolate pudding.
Aches:  Pain next to right big toe.
Animals Seen:  Deer, chipmunks, squirrels.
People Seen:  1 AT Thru-hiker, 8 overnight hikers, 8 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:30am and left the Hostel at 7:10am, saying good-bye to Steve (?) and Verna.  I first went to a phone box and called Barb who was unexpectedly home, and we had a good chat for about 20 minutes.  I then walked up the road a little way to Hilda’s cottage to return the Hostel key and she made good on her promise to cook me breakfast.  She was obviously a talented lady – writing and painting – but seemed to be in poor health.  We had a good chat while I ate and she showed me the baby skunk she was raising – cute.  I left at 8:10am and crossed the Delaware River into New Jersey, optimistic that things were on the up despite the very hot day forecast.  I stopped at the Visitor Centre in the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area that Barb and I had visited in the rain last October on our way to New York and finished off a bottle of Pepsi I was carrying.  I then set out up the Trail which was well-travelled and easy walking for the four miles to the attractive glacial lake, Sunfish Pond.  From there, the Trail degenerated into the same old Pennsylvania rocky Trail.  The going was slow and hot.  After another few hours, I reached Rattlesnake Spring and met Jerry from Ohio who was an AT Thru-hiker and having trouble getting going again after a four-day lay-off with his parents and girlfriend.  I was like a godsend to him and he attached himself to me.  A likeable guy, but I hope he doesn’t plan to walk with me the whole way to Maine.  The remainder of the day was spent trekking along a low rocky ridge in high heat and humidity with occasional views marred by the haze.  Near the end of the day, the former blister between the big and second toes on my right foot began to hurt a lot.  I limped in the last few miles to Brinks Road Shelter and arrived at 7:15pm.  It was very hot with mozzies around so we both erected our same tents (you can sleep with no clothes on in the tent!).  After a hurried dinner, I got to bed at 9:00pm and spent time on my diary and re-reading letters before lights out at 9:30pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 064

Day:  064
Date:  Saturday, 5 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  6.5
Daily Other Miles:  2.0 (around town)
Total AT Miles:  1258.1
Total All Miles:  1296.5
Weather:  Hot, humid, hazy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, eggs, sausages.
  Lunch:  Turkey sandwich, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Chicken, vegetables, ice-cream.
Aches:  Pain next to big toe on right foot.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen:  5 overnight hikers, 2 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
I got up at 5:30am and left at about 6:50am for the 6½ miles into Delaware Water Gap.  I passed a few other campers in the first few miles and then began descending into the Delaware Water Gap with good views over the Delaware River and its gorge en route.  It was already warm and obviously going to be a hot day.  The Trail improved as it became one used by day hikers to get to the look-outs.  Just before Delaware Water Gap it passed a beautiful lily pond.  Delaware Water Gap turned out to be a pretty, historic, art and craft town nestled amongst the hills.  I found the Presbyterian Church and its Hostel underneath straight away and checked it out.  Very good – shower, lounge, dormitory, radio, fridge, clean towels and nobody in residence.  I went down to the Post Office and collected my mail and met Hilda, the elderly volunteer caretaker for the Hostel.  She soon turned up at the Hostel with a key for me to use.  I went to a cafĂ© and had a second breakfast while reading my mail, including a letter from Syntec (my former employer) offering me an attractive three-year contract for when I returned to Australia, two letters from Barb and one from Pam.  After breakfast, I bought groceries and returned to the Hostel.  I decided against the 40 minute bus trip to Stroudsburg and did my laundry by hand.  Back at the cool Hostel, I wrote a letter to Barb, did the laundry, and then went to a nearby pub for lunch at 2pm.  There was baseball on the TV, but the place was noisy and smoky so I returned to the Hostel after lunch and launched into writing a stack of postcards after ringing my cousin, Gordon, and informing him of my impending arrival in his neighbourhood.  During the evening an AT Thru-hiker and his girlfriend turned up – they had hitched back after a week hiking north together.  We chatted a while.  At 10:30pm I rang Marj, then retired at 11pm.  A pleasant relaxing day.  Tried to ring Barb without luck a couple of times.

Appalachian Trail - Day 063

Day:  063
Date:  Friday, 4 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.2
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1251.6
Total All Miles:  1288.0
Weather:  Warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  Feet very sore, right shoulder very sore.
Animals Seen:  Chipmunks, squirrels, deer.
People Seen:  5 overnight hikers, 6 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a good night’s sleep and decided to attempt the 30+ miles to Delaware Water Gap.  I left at 6:50am on a very pleasant morning and headed north along the Trail through pretty woods.  As usual, I collected all the cobwebs en route.  The Trail, although flat, was very rocky and although I could maintain my three miles an hour, it required a lot of concentration, high knee lift, and stamina.  I plodded on with Wind Gap as my half-way mark and aiming for five-mile sessions.  If it wasn’t for the rocks, it would be really pleasant walking.  I just kept hoping I’d strike some more even stretches but, unlike the other days, it was continuous and wearing.  I pressed on and reached Wind Gap, tired but on schedule at 12:30pm.  I couldn’t see the motel supposedly there, but wandered down the road past some houses and found a guy in his garden nailing up US flags (INDEPENDENCE DAY!) who showed me a tap to get water.  Water was again very scarce.  The stretch after Wind Gap was a killer.  It was a relocation, a few years old, and was just non-stop rocks.  I began to get very weary, my pace was slowed and, after two hours to cover five miles, decided that after a 50 minute break for lunch I would seriously consider stopping at Kirkridge Shelter and walk the last six miles into Delaware Water Gap first thing in the morning.  Getting to Delaware Water Gap around 8pm tonight wouldn’t save much time and would leave me with very sore feet.  After passing Wolf Rocks (views OK), the Trail became a little better but. When I reached the Shelter turn-off at 5:30pm, I decided it would be nice to stop.  I walked up to the Shelter, which was in mild disrepair (no rain forecast) and had a relaxed evening.  There was a great view from the Shelter’s front and I had hopes of seeing some fireworks as it got dark.  There were lots of fireworks and I stayed up until 10:30pm watching them from in my sleeping bag, drinking hot chocolate and listening to patriotic music on the Sony Walkman. A very memorable evening.

Appalachian Trail - Day 062

Day:  062
Date:  Thursday, 3 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  25.4
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1228.4
Total All Miles:  1264.8
Weather:  Mild, windy, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Noodles and vegetables, instant pudding.
Aches:  Feet sore, particularly 4th left toe.
Animals Seen:  Deer, squirrels, chipmunks, snake.
People Seen:  9 overnight hikers, 7 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am and managed to get away by 7:15am.  Chuck gave me his address near Boston and suggested I look him up.  I set off toward Blue Mountain summit, 4 miles away, hoping I would be able to get some water there.  I only had half a bottle and, because of the dry winter, the majority of the springs close to the Trail were dry.  There was a restaurant at Blue Mountain, but it was closed until 11am and it was 8:30am when I arrived.  There was no outside water tap, but I found a Pepsi vending machine and scraped together enough change to buy two cans.  This is America – no water, but Pepsi.  The going had been relatively good and I was making good time as I pressed on northward.  The AT continued to follow a low wooded ridge.  Soon it became very rocky and slow again (at least the rocks weren’t wet) and followed a rocky ridge known as The Knife Edge.  It would have been good fun without a pack on!  I continued to make surprisingly good time which I attributed to the much lighter pack.  There continued to be clear views from a number of rocky knobs and outcrops in both directions.  I reached Overbridge Shelter at 2:30pm for a late lunch.  There was a dead (shot) copperhead snake in the fireplace.  The Trail then descended to Lehigh Gap and crossed the Lehigh River on a road bridge – there was lots of traffic around; people knocking off early for a long weekend.  The mountains around the Gap had been denuded by pollution from the nearby zinc smelting operation.  The ascent up the other side was steep and involved clambering over barren rocks.  Good views.  At the ridge top the vegetation was still sparse.  I decided to walk until 6:30pm even though I would have passed the day’s target (a spring).  If the going was good tomorrow, I might make it to Delaware Water Gap.  At 6:30pm I found a nice little campsite by the Trail and had a pleasant evening before retiring at 9pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 061

Day:  061
Date:  Wednesday, 2 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.4
Daily Other Miles:  0.1 (hotel)
Total AT Miles:  1203.0
Total All Miles:  1239.4
Weather:  Mostly cloudy, rain in the morning.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter.
  Dinner:  Noodles and vegetables, pop tarts.
Aches:  Feet sore, right shoulder aching, lower back chafed.
Animals Seen:  2 BEARS, ground hog, grouse, small snake.
People Seen:  2 overnight hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:20am and ate breakfast in my room before leaving at 7:10am.  It was a good night’s sleep and my feet didn’t cause me to wake at all, though they still feel battered.  It had begun raining during the night and was still raining steadily as I left. The Trail followed the Schuylkill River for a short distance before climbing away from the picturesque Port Clinton.  The Trail reached the ridge and followed the crest.  Again, there were patches of bad rocks which slowed progress and were more treacherous when wet.  The Trail passed close to some good viewpoints – Pulpit Rock, The Pinnacle – and I got some great views over the Pennsylvanian countryside.  The Trail descended into a valley where it passed through conifer forest which was very pleasant.  My feet, while sore, weren’t as bad as on the other days.  I had lunch in a nice spot and then ascended back up to the ridge.  Again, there were a lot of rocky sections which slowed progress and were very tiresome.  I stopped for my last break of the afternoon at 5:30pm near Dans Spring and while sitting down looking at the map I heard a twig snap.  I loked up to find a full-grown black bear less than 15 yards away sniffing the air – it hadn’t seen me.  Five yards away was a companion of similar size. They moved off slowly into the bush foraging and I got out my camera as quietly as possible and set off in stealthy pursuit.  After about 200 yards I got a couple of pictures and they still hadn’t seen me.  If they had seen me and were aggressive, there was nowhere I could have gone.  All very exciting.  I continued on for the rocky last three miles to the Allentown Shelter arriving at 6:50pm.  Chuck, a five-day hiker, was in residence.  We chatted and got along well while I successfully got a fire going with wet wood.  Went to bed at 9:15pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 060

Day:  060
Date:  Tuesday, 1 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  18.5
Daily Other Miles:  0.1 (hotel)
Total AT Miles:  1178.6
Total All Miles:  1214.9
Weather:  Mild, sunny in the morning and cloudy in the afternoon.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter.
  Dinner:  Salad, hamburger steak, fresh vegetables, ice-cream.
Aches:  Feet extremely sore, blister.
Animals Seen:  Rabbits, deer, grouse.
People Seen:  1 day hiker, many others.

Journal:
Woke up at midnight with feet aching mercilessly.  They were burning too, and I nearly got up to stand in the creek.  Dreading tomorrow.  I got up at 6am and, apart from the feet, slept reasonably well.  Managed to get going by 7:35am.  I was not moving well and my feet were already feeling battered as well as having sharp pain between the big and second toes on right foot. Feared infection and had to stop after two miles.  Fortunately, it turned out to be a big blister.  I pressed on for another four miles but was amazed how bad my feet felt so early in the day.  My pack was still heavy, but more tolerable.  My intended distance for the day was 25 miles, but I was moving so slow because of the extremely rocky terrain and sore feet that it seemed doubtful and foolhardy to try and make it.  I decided to reduce my sessions from four to three miles and checked the AT Log Book to find that I could probably still make Delaware Water Gap before noon on Saturday if I stopped the night in Port Clinton. The Trail was basically flat along the top of a ridge through attractive woods but the path was covered with loose and projecting sharp rocks.  It was slow, tedious and risky walking.  I descended into Port Clinton at about 4:40pm, found the Post Office and sent another card to Clio, then went to the Port Clinton Hotel where I got a room, the only guest, from the amiable Helen.  She offered to cook me dinner for an extra $3.50, so I accepted.  After a shower I had a salad, hamburger steak, fresh vegetables and ice-cream dinner in the bar watching TV.  No other patrons.I stayed there drinking Cokes, watching a few customers drift in, watching TV and talking to Helen until 9pm.  Decided sleep was probably more important than baseball and my feet hurt when sitting in a chair or stool so retired to update my diary, pack for an early start, and maybe read a little.