Day: 112
Date: Friday, 22 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 7.2
Daily Other Miles: 5.2
Total AT Miles: 2145.3
Total All Miles: 2208.5
Weather: Warm, cloudy and first, windy.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Burgers, fries, ice-cream.
Dinner: ?
Aches: Left Achilles.
Animals Seen: 4 moose.
People Seen: 16 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
We got up at 5am after a bad night’s sleep. Jerry had been tossing and turning most of the night and shaking the whole shelter. It had rained most of the night but had now stopped. We set off at 6:20am to walk to Katahdin – our last day on the Trail. We were both quite excited, though we knew we had a tough climb in front of us. In the first couple of miles the clouds started clearing and the scenery was beautiful – lakes, forests and Katahdin (still cloud-covered). We surprised a cow moose and calf at very close range, but didn’t have time to get the camera out, and saw another couple of moose at a distance feeding in a lake. We reached Katahdin Stream Campground at 7:10am (Barb and I had camped there before) and began the big, our last, ascent. The Trail gradually became steeper and steeper, and the rocks became boulders. We had both decided to take out full packs up, even though we didn’t need them (we were returning the same way later in the day), and this made the climbing very tricky in parts. As we got higher the temperature became cooler and there was a biting strong wind. We got into the clouds a few times, but they seemed to be breaking up as we went and we also got some good views. Eventually, we reached the mountain’s summit plateau and walked 1½ miles across its rocky surface gradually, and then more steeply, up to the summit (5260’). We collected some spring water en route for a summit toast. It was very cold, though we were only lightly clad – shorts, T-shirts,Goretex rain jackets. We reached the fog-covered summit at 10:15am and the Trail was officially finished. We hung around for a while, toasting each other, eating a snack and picture-taking, before leaving at 11am. It was too cold to stay longer but, between breaks in the clouds, we’d got superb views in all directions, so couldn’t complain. The views continued throughout our descent above the tree-line – the pack still making boulder-hopping difficult. Below the tree-line we were becoming weary and knees and feet were hurting. We wanted to finish. At 1:40pm, we arrived at Katahdin Stream Campground. At the Ranger Office we found the AT Register and made our final entries. I went for a quick swim in the absolutely freezing pond – much to the delight of a number of onlookers – and changed into clean (relatively) clothes. Jerry asked a guy with a pick-up about a lift to Millinocket and the guy said he could give us a lift to the main road, which he did. There, we only waited a few minutes before getting another lift into Millinocket – right to the door of a motel (with a stop at the Post Office for Jerry). We checked in at 3:45pm and spent a relaxing rest of the day eating, watching TV and talking. Rang Barb and found a bus went from Medway, 11 miles away, next morning at 9am. Went to bed at 11:15pm. [Next day, I hitched to Medway and caught two buses back to Boston where I stayed with my aunt, Marj, until I flew back to Australia a week later.]
Appalachian Trail - Day 111
Day: 111
Date: Thursday, 21 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 21.9
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2138.1
Total All Miles: 2196.1
Weather: Mild, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: ??
Dinner: Hot dogs, baked beans, macaroni cheese, apple pie, chips.
Aches: Left Achilles sore.
Animals Seen: Moose, chipmunks.
People Seen: 1 AT Thru-hiker (southbound), 6 overnight hikers, 4 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5am to what promised to be a beautiful day. We packed up and left our lovely spot at 6:30am and hiked upstream to a nearby lake. As we walked around the shore in the early morning sunlight, Jerry spotted a big bull moose out in the middle of the lake which was covered on the surface by a light mist. It was a beautiful scene and I wished I had the zoom lens. We took some pictures and walked around the shore on the Trail getting quite close before he heard us and took off. It seemed a good omen. We pressed on along the Trail, which was never easy going – always twisting and turning, going up and down small bumps and hills, covered by exposed tree roots and rocks, and occasionally boggy. It was a real test for the legs, ankles and feet. It passed along the shore of Rainbow Lake for five miles before climbing up on to the Rainbow Ledges. It was a excellent day and we had good views in all directions. The crest of Katahdin still had a cover of cloud, however. The descent from the Ledges to Hurd Brook Lean-To was tortuous. We had a break before continuing on more tough trail. We were both wishing it was over. At about 1:30pm, we reached Abol Bridge Campground and its small store. We bought a big lunch and sat outside in the sun eating and watching the logging trucks roll by. We decided to buy some extra food for our last night on the Trail and got some hot dogs, baked beans, chips, cans of drink, fruit pies and cookies. We left at 2:30pm for the last 7½ miles to our target of Daicey pond Campground. The Trail was easy at first, following old logging trails and some flat land upstream along thePenobscot River, which was quite wide. We saw a couple of big rafts with tourists floating downstream. The Trail then left the river and followed a large stream upstream and became more difficult. The stream was pretty, with a number of big cascades and flumes and inviting swimming holes on a warm afternoon. We were both tired and looking forward to getting to the Campground. The Trail crossed a number of tributaries on testing logs and saplings, but neither of us fell in. We reached the Campground at 5:30pm on the shores of a beautiful pond with Katahdin in the background (top still cloud-covered). We paid for a shelter and had a very pleasant evening eating our goodies, chatting with a southbound, by sections, AT Hiker, and reflecting on the trip. Rain was forecast overnight, clearing tomorrow. We went to bed at 8:30pm after deciding to go tomorrow, regardless of the weather (Katahdin weather can be very dangerous, even in summer). Almost as soon as we went to bed, it began raining. There were mozzies and mice in the shelter.
Date: Thursday, 21 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 21.9
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2138.1
Total All Miles: 2196.1
Weather: Mild, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: ??
Dinner: Hot dogs, baked beans, macaroni cheese, apple pie, chips.
Aches: Left Achilles sore.
Animals Seen: Moose, chipmunks.
People Seen: 1 AT Thru-hiker (southbound), 6 overnight hikers, 4 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5am to what promised to be a beautiful day. We packed up and left our lovely spot at 6:30am and hiked upstream to a nearby lake. As we walked around the shore in the early morning sunlight, Jerry spotted a big bull moose out in the middle of the lake which was covered on the surface by a light mist. It was a beautiful scene and I wished I had the zoom lens. We took some pictures and walked around the shore on the Trail getting quite close before he heard us and took off. It seemed a good omen. We pressed on along the Trail, which was never easy going – always twisting and turning, going up and down small bumps and hills, covered by exposed tree roots and rocks, and occasionally boggy. It was a real test for the legs, ankles and feet. It passed along the shore of Rainbow Lake for five miles before climbing up on to the Rainbow Ledges. It was a excellent day and we had good views in all directions. The crest of Katahdin still had a cover of cloud, however. The descent from the Ledges to Hurd Brook Lean-To was tortuous. We had a break before continuing on more tough trail. We were both wishing it was over. At about 1:30pm, we reached Abol Bridge Campground and its small store. We bought a big lunch and sat outside in the sun eating and watching the logging trucks roll by. We decided to buy some extra food for our last night on the Trail and got some hot dogs, baked beans, chips, cans of drink, fruit pies and cookies. We left at 2:30pm for the last 7½ miles to our target of Daicey pond Campground. The Trail was easy at first, following old logging trails and some flat land upstream along thePenobscot River, which was quite wide. We saw a couple of big rafts with tourists floating downstream. The Trail then left the river and followed a large stream upstream and became more difficult. The stream was pretty, with a number of big cascades and flumes and inviting swimming holes on a warm afternoon. We were both tired and looking forward to getting to the Campground. The Trail crossed a number of tributaries on testing logs and saplings, but neither of us fell in. We reached the Campground at 5:30pm on the shores of a beautiful pond with Katahdin in the background (top still cloud-covered). We paid for a shelter and had a very pleasant evening eating our goodies, chatting with a southbound, by sections, AT Hiker, and reflecting on the trip. Rain was forecast overnight, clearing tomorrow. We went to bed at 8:30pm after deciding to go tomorrow, regardless of the weather (Katahdin weather can be very dangerous, even in summer). Almost as soon as we went to bed, it began raining. There were mozzies and mice in the shelter.
Appalachian Trail - Day 110
Day: 110
Date: Wednesday, 20 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 24.4
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2116.2
Total All Miles: 2174.2
Weather: Warm, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, candy bars.
Dinner: Noodles, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Pheasant, 3 snakes, 2 moose.
People Seen: 10 overnight hikers.
Journal:
Got up at 5am after a good night’s sleep and set out at 6:30am for Potaywadjo Spring Hut, six miles away. The skies were relatively clear so we were hopeful of a better day. The Trail continued through mossy forest with an incredible variety of mushrooms and toadstools – all shapes, sizes and colours – as had been the case the last few days. The Trail was rough, boggy in parts, and covered in roots. At Potaywadjo Spring Lean-To there was a magnificent spring with bubbling sand as the water (cold and clear) bubbled up. We then decided to go for Wadleigh Stream Lean-To for lunch in two sections. The Trail conditions remained the same and it passed by some more beautiful lakes. At one point, the Trail actually went along the narrow rocky shore of the lake. I slipped into the water twice. We had lunch at about 1:40pm at the pleasant Lean-To. Jerry was having a lot of trouble with one of his boots that was falling apart, and was tying it together with string and tape but it kept coming apart under the strain of the rough Trail. We only had eight miles to our target shelter, Rainbow Stream Lean-To, but were both tired and weren’t looking forward to the miles which included Mount Nesuntabunt (~2000’), the last mountain before Katahdin. Jerry seemed to have decided he was going to accompany me to the end. I would have preferred to hike alone but don’t want to be rude and he’s a likeable bloke – we get on OK. We set out up the mountain and stopped at the top for a great view of the forests, lakes and Mount Katahdin (the northern end of the AT) for the first time. The summit was covered in cloud. We descended from the mountain to Crescent Pond and, as we were walking along the edge, Jerry spotted a moose feeding in the shallows about 30 yards offshore. We both got pictures before it was scared off. We then saw it had a calf with it. The last four miles dragged, but we eventually reached the pretty shelter by the stream in a little valley. We had it to ourselves. I had a double portion of noodles (because I hadn’t cooked the two previous nights) and, after dinner, enjoyed two cups of hot chocolate whilst musing over the trip and its looming end. I felt a bit melancholy. Went to bed at about 9pm.
Date: Wednesday, 20 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 24.4
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2116.2
Total All Miles: 2174.2
Weather: Warm, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, candy bars.
Dinner: Noodles, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Pheasant, 3 snakes, 2 moose.
People Seen: 10 overnight hikers.
Journal:
Got up at 5am after a good night’s sleep and set out at 6:30am for Potaywadjo Spring Hut, six miles away. The skies were relatively clear so we were hopeful of a better day. The Trail continued through mossy forest with an incredible variety of mushrooms and toadstools – all shapes, sizes and colours – as had been the case the last few days. The Trail was rough, boggy in parts, and covered in roots. At Potaywadjo Spring Lean-To there was a magnificent spring with bubbling sand as the water (cold and clear) bubbled up. We then decided to go for Wadleigh Stream Lean-To for lunch in two sections. The Trail conditions remained the same and it passed by some more beautiful lakes. At one point, the Trail actually went along the narrow rocky shore of the lake. I slipped into the water twice. We had lunch at about 1:40pm at the pleasant Lean-To. Jerry was having a lot of trouble with one of his boots that was falling apart, and was tying it together with string and tape but it kept coming apart under the strain of the rough Trail. We only had eight miles to our target shelter, Rainbow Stream Lean-To, but were both tired and weren’t looking forward to the miles which included Mount Nesuntabunt (~2000’), the last mountain before Katahdin. Jerry seemed to have decided he was going to accompany me to the end. I would have preferred to hike alone but don’t want to be rude and he’s a likeable bloke – we get on OK. We set out up the mountain and stopped at the top for a great view of the forests, lakes and Mount Katahdin (the northern end of the AT) for the first time. The summit was covered in cloud. We descended from the mountain to Crescent Pond and, as we were walking along the edge, Jerry spotted a moose feeding in the shallows about 30 yards offshore. We both got pictures before it was scared off. We then saw it had a calf with it. The last four miles dragged, but we eventually reached the pretty shelter by the stream in a little valley. We had it to ourselves. I had a double portion of noodles (because I hadn’t cooked the two previous nights) and, after dinner, enjoyed two cups of hot chocolate whilst musing over the trip and its looming end. I felt a bit melancholy. Went to bed at about 9pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 109
Day: 109
Date: Tuesday, 19 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 23.4
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2091.8
Total All Miles: 2149.8
Weather: Mild, rain in the morning, overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, candy bars.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding, candy bars.
Aches: Crutch chafing.
Animals Seen: 2 moose, pheasant.
People Seen: 13 overnight hikers.
Journal:
Got up at 5am and left at 6:30am thinking that, if I got a good run, I might make the 29 miles to Potaywadjo Spring Shelter. There was a fine drizzle and fog as I set off up the slippery Trail towards the summit of Whitecap Mountain (3600’). A lot of wet undergrowth was overhanging the Trail and I was soon soaked through. The going was very slow and it took me 3½ hours of solid walking to reach Logan Brook Lean-To, seven miles away, where I had my first break. There were no views from the bleak summit of Whitecap Mountain. In the shelter was Kacy (and boyfriend), the solo girl hiker I’d just missed catching in the Green Mountains in Vermont. She had since skipped New Hampshire! I pressed on down the mountain making slightly better progress and took another break next to a pretty pond after another 5½ miles. During the break, Jerry caught me. We’d said good-bye this morning as he hadn’t been going to go as far as me today, but had obviously changed his mind. We walked another three miles along a boggy and sometimes hilly Trail through mossy forest to a lake where we had lunch at about 2pm. We then walked on to the very attractive Cooper Brook Falls Lean-To and were tempted to stay, but I wanted to push on so as to be in a position to reach Dacey Pond, at the base of Katahdin, by Thursday night. After another five miles, we stopped in a damp, almost swampy, area near a spring and set up our tents. Wet wood so I had another cold dinner. Today was a bit of a trudge and I’m looking forward to finishing. Went to bed at 8:15pm and updated my diary in the tent.
Date: Tuesday, 19 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 23.4
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2091.8
Total All Miles: 2149.8
Weather: Mild, rain in the morning, overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, candy bars.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding, candy bars.
Aches: Crutch chafing.
Animals Seen: 2 moose, pheasant.
People Seen: 13 overnight hikers.
Journal:
Got up at 5am and left at 6:30am thinking that, if I got a good run, I might make the 29 miles to Potaywadjo Spring Shelter. There was a fine drizzle and fog as I set off up the slippery Trail towards the summit of Whitecap Mountain (3600’). A lot of wet undergrowth was overhanging the Trail and I was soon soaked through. The going was very slow and it took me 3½ hours of solid walking to reach Logan Brook Lean-To, seven miles away, where I had my first break. There were no views from the bleak summit of Whitecap Mountain. In the shelter was Kacy (and boyfriend), the solo girl hiker I’d just missed catching in the Green Mountains in Vermont. She had since skipped New Hampshire! I pressed on down the mountain making slightly better progress and took another break next to a pretty pond after another 5½ miles. During the break, Jerry caught me. We’d said good-bye this morning as he hadn’t been going to go as far as me today, but had obviously changed his mind. We walked another three miles along a boggy and sometimes hilly Trail through mossy forest to a lake where we had lunch at about 2pm. We then walked on to the very attractive Cooper Brook Falls Lean-To and were tempted to stay, but I wanted to push on so as to be in a position to reach Dacey Pond, at the base of Katahdin, by Thursday night. After another five miles, we stopped in a damp, almost swampy, area near a spring and set up our tents. Wet wood so I had another cold dinner. Today was a bit of a trudge and I’m looking forward to finishing. Went to bed at 8:15pm and updated my diary in the tent.
Appalachian Trail - Day 108
Day: 108
Date: Monday, 18 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 16.6
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2068.4
Total All Miles: 2126.4
Weather: Mild, raining in the morning, overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Burgers, fries, ice-cream.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding, Mars Bar.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Squirrels.
People Seen: 7 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5am and left at 6:20am after it had rained heavily during the night and was forecast to rain again during the day. I had 10½ miles to do by 11am to meet the Cocks’ family as arranged. It seemed to be an easy task, but the rough Trail and wet slippery conditions slowed progress considerably. After an hour it began to rain steadily and soon I was soaked through. The forest was mossy and pretty, but cloud and rain prevented any views. I eventually reached the St Regis Paper Company Logging Road, where I was to meet the Cocks’, in light rain and 55 minutes late. They weren’t there, but there seemed nothing to do but wait. I sat on a bridge in the drizzle and ate my gorp, wet, but not unhappy. After 30 minutes, the Cocks’ arrived. It was good to see them all. They suggested we drive into a nearby town and eat at a restaurant out of the rain, so I hid my pack and joined them (still soaking wet) in their Volvo. We drove about 18 miles to Brownville Junction where we found a really nice diner and had a very pleasant hour chatting and catching up on news – me still in my raincoat. At about 2:30pm, we left and they drove me back to the Trail where I resumed walking at 3pm and they set off for the long drive back to Boston. It was still over 13 miles to go to my target Shelter, but there was one six miles away so I decided to go there non-stop and see how the time was. It had stopped raining, but everything was soaking wet and a number of streams had to be forded. There was also a new “relo”, which slowed things a little, but I reached the Shelter, Carl Newhall, at 5:20pm to find Jerry and another hiker there already. It would be too late to try for the next Shelter, so I decided on an early night.
Date: Monday, 18 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 16.6
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2068.4
Total All Miles: 2126.4
Weather: Mild, raining in the morning, overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Burgers, fries, ice-cream.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding, Mars Bar.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Squirrels.
People Seen: 7 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5am and left at 6:20am after it had rained heavily during the night and was forecast to rain again during the day. I had 10½ miles to do by 11am to meet the Cocks’ family as arranged. It seemed to be an easy task, but the rough Trail and wet slippery conditions slowed progress considerably. After an hour it began to rain steadily and soon I was soaked through. The forest was mossy and pretty, but cloud and rain prevented any views. I eventually reached the St Regis Paper Company Logging Road, where I was to meet the Cocks’, in light rain and 55 minutes late. They weren’t there, but there seemed nothing to do but wait. I sat on a bridge in the drizzle and ate my gorp, wet, but not unhappy. After 30 minutes, the Cocks’ arrived. It was good to see them all. They suggested we drive into a nearby town and eat at a restaurant out of the rain, so I hid my pack and joined them (still soaking wet) in their Volvo. We drove about 18 miles to Brownville Junction where we found a really nice diner and had a very pleasant hour chatting and catching up on news – me still in my raincoat. At about 2:30pm, we left and they drove me back to the Trail where I resumed walking at 3pm and they set off for the long drive back to Boston. It was still over 13 miles to go to my target Shelter, but there was one six miles away so I decided to go there non-stop and see how the time was. It had stopped raining, but everything was soaking wet and a number of streams had to be forded. There was also a new “relo”, which slowed things a little, but I reached the Shelter, Carl Newhall, at 5:20pm to find Jerry and another hiker there already. It would be too late to try for the next Shelter, so I decided on an early night.
Appalachian Trail - Day 107
Day: 107
Date: Sunday, 17 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 22.6
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2051.8
Total All Miles: 2109.8
Weather: Warm, very humid, partly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Eggs, pancakes, orange juice.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: 10 overnight hikers, 5 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
I got up at 6:15am and after breakfast (big!) left Monson at about 7:40am. Geoff and Jerry left with me and we all did the long road-walk out of town followed by a climb up on to a ridge on new trail. The going was slow, but the forest was pretty and the Trail passed a number of attractive lakes. Geoff dropped behind. The Trail passed by Little Wilson Falls which were very pretty and followed by the first ford of the day. The Trail then dropped off the ridge back onto a road and we had about five miles of road-walking, some of it in hot sun on a very humid day. We reached the point where the Trail left the road and immediately had to ford Long Pond Stream. We had lunch on the opposite bank at about 3pm while socks and feet dried, before leaving at 4pm to climb up 2000+’ Barren Mountain in very hot conditions. There were some good, but hazy, views on the way up. Once over the peak, the Trail descended and I reached Cloud Pond Lean-To at about 6:15pm. It only had a dirt floor, but was in a very attractive setting by a lake. Jerry arrived shortly after me, and Geoff at about 8:15pm. It had begun to rain at about 7:45pm, and got heavier. I blew out my candle soon after 9pm.
Date: Sunday, 17 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 22.6
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2051.8
Total All Miles: 2109.8
Weather: Warm, very humid, partly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Eggs, pancakes, orange juice.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: 10 overnight hikers, 5 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
I got up at 6:15am and after breakfast (big!) left Monson at about 7:40am. Geoff and Jerry left with me and we all did the long road-walk out of town followed by a climb up on to a ridge on new trail. The going was slow, but the forest was pretty and the Trail passed a number of attractive lakes. Geoff dropped behind. The Trail passed by Little Wilson Falls which were very pretty and followed by the first ford of the day. The Trail then dropped off the ridge back onto a road and we had about five miles of road-walking, some of it in hot sun on a very humid day. We reached the point where the Trail left the road and immediately had to ford Long Pond Stream. We had lunch on the opposite bank at about 3pm while socks and feet dried, before leaving at 4pm to climb up 2000+’ Barren Mountain in very hot conditions. There were some good, but hazy, views on the way up. Once over the peak, the Trail descended and I reached Cloud Pond Lean-To at about 6:15pm. It only had a dirt floor, but was in a very attractive setting by a lake. Jerry arrived shortly after me, and Geoff at about 8:15pm. It had begun to rain at about 7:45pm, and got heavier. I blew out my candle soon after 9pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 106
Day: 106
Date: Saturday, 16 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 9.0
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2029.2
Total All Miles: 2087.2
Weather: Some rain, mostly fine.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, eggs, toast, orange juice.
Lunch: Burger, fries, ice-cream.
Dinner: Steak, vegetables, cake, ice-cream.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: 2 AT Thru-hikers, 1 AT Hiker (southbound, by sections), 5 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5am and packed and ate quickly and left at 6:15am, just after a brief shower of rain. It was very gloomy. I decided to just walk the nine miles into Monson non-stop and hopefully get there early enough to ring both Marj and Barb. The Trail through the forest was mainly on old logging tracks and was wet and boggy, but there were long sections on the road where I could keep the pace going. I got into the outskirts of Monson, on a big lake, at about 9:15am and immediately found Shaw’s Boarding House, where I planned to stay. I went in and the diminutive operator, Keith (and his wife, Patty), told me I was in time for breakfast and could make my calls from their phone. I checked in, had my big breakfast, rang Marj (ticket had arrived) and Barb before having a shower. I then went downtown, collected my mail and did my shopping. Among others at the hostel were Jerry (who I had hiked with in New Jersey, and who was apparently waiting in Monson for me to catch up) and “Shutterbug” (Geoff). We went down to the only restaurant in town for lunch and I read my mail. It included a letter fromSyntec painting a less-rosy picture of the job they were proposing to me. I was a bit annoyed, but not surprised. During the afternoon I ate, watched baseball on TV, read the paper and did my laundry. Also in residence was Bob Barker, an MS sufferer, and an insufferable bore. After dinner I went for a walk around town with Jerry and Geoff before returning to watch TV until retiring about 10:30pm. During the day, Bo had rung to say they would meet me on Monday for lunch.
Date: Saturday, 16 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 9.0
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2029.2
Total All Miles: 2087.2
Weather: Some rain, mostly fine.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, eggs, toast, orange juice.
Lunch: Burger, fries, ice-cream.
Dinner: Steak, vegetables, cake, ice-cream.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: 2 AT Thru-hikers, 1 AT Hiker (southbound, by sections), 5 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5am and packed and ate quickly and left at 6:15am, just after a brief shower of rain. It was very gloomy. I decided to just walk the nine miles into Monson non-stop and hopefully get there early enough to ring both Marj and Barb. The Trail through the forest was mainly on old logging tracks and was wet and boggy, but there were long sections on the road where I could keep the pace going. I got into the outskirts of Monson, on a big lake, at about 9:15am and immediately found Shaw’s Boarding House, where I planned to stay. I went in and the diminutive operator, Keith (and his wife, Patty), told me I was in time for breakfast and could make my calls from their phone. I checked in, had my big breakfast, rang Marj (ticket had arrived) and Barb before having a shower. I then went downtown, collected my mail and did my shopping. Among others at the hostel were Jerry (who I had hiked with in New Jersey, and who was apparently waiting in Monson for me to catch up) and “Shutterbug” (Geoff). We went down to the only restaurant in town for lunch and I read my mail. It included a letter fromSyntec painting a less-rosy picture of the job they were proposing to me. I was a bit annoyed, but not surprised. During the afternoon I ate, watched baseball on TV, read the paper and did my laundry. Also in residence was Bob Barker, an MS sufferer, and an insufferable bore. After dinner I went for a walk around town with Jerry and Geoff before returning to watch TV until retiring about 10:30pm. During the day, Bo had rung to say they would meet me on Monday for lunch.
Appalachian Trail - Day 105
Day: 105
Date: Friday, 15 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 27.2
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2020.2
Total All Miles: 2078.2
Weather: Mild, overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Moose, weasel (?).
People Seen: 1 AT Thru-Hiker (southbound), 10 overnight hikers, 2 day hikers, some others.
Journal:
Got up at 4:30pm and packed up in the dark, putting everything in garbage bags in preparation for the big crossing. After breakfast, I headed down to the river which was now much lower and covered with a patchy mist. Quite attractive. I carried a pole for support but, apart from some slippery rocks, the crossing was something of an anticlimax and, at its deepest, the water was only mid-thigh. On the northern bank, I rearranged some things and put on my shoes and socks before setting off on a long day of 27 miles. Fortunately, the first six miles were road-walking and I covered them in good time. The first of those miles took me through the little village of Caratunk where everybody seemed to be still asleep as I tip-toed through. I took my first break at Pleasant Pond Lean-To before the steep climb up Pleasant Pond Mountain. I didn’t bother taking the side-trail to the summit. The Trail descended the other side through deciduous forest and it was here I disturbed and saw my first moose. It trotted off into the forest. I continued to make good time and took my second break at a very pleasant spot on the shores of Moxie Pond. Then followed the ascent of Moxie Bald Mountain from the shoulders of which there were excellent views towards the bluish mountains in the distance. I had lunch at Moxie Bald Mountain Lean-To on the shores of pretty Bald Mountain Lake and chatted to a female school-teacher from Philadelphia and a southbound AT Thru-hiker. With weather reports indicating scattered afternoon showers, I walked the remaining seven miles to my target Breakneck Ridge Lean-To through mixed forest with plenty of bogs. Already there, with a fire going, was Gary, who was out for a few weeks shakedown in preparation for doing the AT next year. We talked a fair bit and I went to bed at 8:30pm. A big, but good, day. I was initially worried a bit about Gary, who seemed the Rambo-type with knives etc., but he loosened up after a while.
Date: Friday, 15 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 27.2
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2020.2
Total All Miles: 2078.2
Weather: Mild, overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Moose, weasel (?).
People Seen: 1 AT Thru-Hiker (southbound), 10 overnight hikers, 2 day hikers, some others.
Journal:
Got up at 4:30pm and packed up in the dark, putting everything in garbage bags in preparation for the big crossing. After breakfast, I headed down to the river which was now much lower and covered with a patchy mist. Quite attractive. I carried a pole for support but, apart from some slippery rocks, the crossing was something of an anticlimax and, at its deepest, the water was only mid-thigh. On the northern bank, I rearranged some things and put on my shoes and socks before setting off on a long day of 27 miles. Fortunately, the first six miles were road-walking and I covered them in good time. The first of those miles took me through the little village of Caratunk where everybody seemed to be still asleep as I tip-toed through. I took my first break at Pleasant Pond Lean-To before the steep climb up Pleasant Pond Mountain. I didn’t bother taking the side-trail to the summit. The Trail descended the other side through deciduous forest and it was here I disturbed and saw my first moose. It trotted off into the forest. I continued to make good time and took my second break at a very pleasant spot on the shores of Moxie Pond. Then followed the ascent of Moxie Bald Mountain from the shoulders of which there were excellent views towards the bluish mountains in the distance. I had lunch at Moxie Bald Mountain Lean-To on the shores of pretty Bald Mountain Lake and chatted to a female school-teacher from Philadelphia and a southbound AT Thru-hiker. With weather reports indicating scattered afternoon showers, I walked the remaining seven miles to my target Breakneck Ridge Lean-To through mixed forest with plenty of bogs. Already there, with a fire going, was Gary, who was out for a few weeks shakedown in preparation for doing the AT next year. We talked a fair bit and I went to bed at 8:30pm. A big, but good, day. I was initially worried a bit about Gary, who seemed the Rambo-type with knives etc., but he loosened up after a while.
Appalachian Trail - Day 104
Day: 104
Date: Thursday, 14 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 16.8
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1993.0
Total All Miles: 2051.0
Weather: Mild, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: Lower right back chafing.
Animals Seen: Squirrels.
People Seen: 14 overnight hikers, some others.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and, after water-proofing various pack items with garbage bags for the coming Kennebec River crossing, left at 7:10am. It was going to be a beautiful day as I set out to try and reach the Kennebec, 17 miles away, by lunchtime. The Trail passed through pretty deciduous forest for most of the morning and also by three beautiful lakes. The second, East Carry Pond, was particularly beautiful, with a loon calling, and I took an early mid-morning break to enjoy the scene. It made me feel quite melancholy that the trip was nearing the end. After a break at Pierce Pond Lean-To, I pushed on to the Kennebec. The Trail was new and, although following an attractive large stream, was hard slow going. Just before reaching the Kennebec, I met an elderly couple coming the other way who’d just crossed the river by canoe. They said the river was running very high – too high to ford. Alice Ference, an AT Thru-hiker nearing her goal, drowned while fording the Kennebec last year, so I was a bit anxious about the dangers involved. I reached the river, more than 100 metres wide, at 2:45pm and found the two mid-river gravel bars, which were supposed to be above water for safe fording, beneath the surface. I was tempted to try the ford and assume I could swim pushing my water-proofed pack if too deep, but decided to leave that as a last resort for tomorrow morning. The river is supposed to be at its lowest at 6am (there’s a dam upstream making timed releases of water). It is possible to call in advance to arrange to be ferried across the river, but I didn’t really want to do that, having walked every step of the way so far. I had lunch and waited on the banks in the sun for 1½ hours to see if there was any change in the water level – there wasn’t – before walking inland 100 yards to a small conifer grove where I set up camp. There is a major road across the river. It is strange to contrast that normality with my life-risking struggle to go on first thing tomorrow morning. Around 5pm, two hikers (I think) began testing the water depth on the other side. The current was far too strong and the river too deep for them to go more than a few yards from the shore and they gave up. I had dinner early, made some preparations for tomorrow, and went to bed at 7:30pm.
Date: Thursday, 14 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 16.8
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1993.0
Total All Miles: 2051.0
Weather: Mild, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: Lower right back chafing.
Animals Seen: Squirrels.
People Seen: 14 overnight hikers, some others.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and, after water-proofing various pack items with garbage bags for the coming Kennebec River crossing, left at 7:10am. It was going to be a beautiful day as I set out to try and reach the Kennebec, 17 miles away, by lunchtime. The Trail passed through pretty deciduous forest for most of the morning and also by three beautiful lakes. The second, East Carry Pond, was particularly beautiful, with a loon calling, and I took an early mid-morning break to enjoy the scene. It made me feel quite melancholy that the trip was nearing the end. After a break at Pierce Pond Lean-To, I pushed on to the Kennebec. The Trail was new and, although following an attractive large stream, was hard slow going. Just before reaching the Kennebec, I met an elderly couple coming the other way who’d just crossed the river by canoe. They said the river was running very high – too high to ford. Alice Ference, an AT Thru-hiker nearing her goal, drowned while fording the Kennebec last year, so I was a bit anxious about the dangers involved. I reached the river, more than 100 metres wide, at 2:45pm and found the two mid-river gravel bars, which were supposed to be above water for safe fording, beneath the surface. I was tempted to try the ford and assume I could swim pushing my water-proofed pack if too deep, but decided to leave that as a last resort for tomorrow morning. The river is supposed to be at its lowest at 6am (there’s a dam upstream making timed releases of water). It is possible to call in advance to arrange to be ferried across the river, but I didn’t really want to do that, having walked every step of the way so far. I had lunch and waited on the banks in the sun for 1½ hours to see if there was any change in the water level – there wasn’t – before walking inland 100 yards to a small conifer grove where I set up camp. There is a major road across the river. It is strange to contrast that normality with my life-risking struggle to go on first thing tomorrow morning. Around 5pm, two hikers (I think) began testing the water depth on the other side. The current was far too strong and the river too deep for them to go more than a few yards from the shore and they gave up. I had dinner early, made some preparations for tomorrow, and went to bed at 7:30pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 103
Day: 103
Date: Wednesday, 13 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 18.8
Daily Other Miles: 1.0 (relocation).
Total AT Miles: 1976.2
Total All Miles: 2034.2
Weather: Mild, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Eggs, bacon, orange juice.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Squirrels, grouse.
People Seen: 15 overnight hikers, 3 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 7:40am and finished packing before going down to breakfast, which Jerry cooked. Two eggs and toast wasn’t really enough, but what could I say. After breakfast, Jerry gave me a lift back to the Trail for a dollar, and I was walking by 8:50am, which was good. It was a perfect day as I began the ascent of the Bigelow Range – the last big mountains before Katahdin. I was in good spirits and the climb wasn’t too tough. My pace was a little better than expected and I reached the west summit of Bigelow Mountain soon after noon and admired the fantastic views in all directions – lakes, forests, mountains, towns. I continued on over the eastern peak enjoying views all the way then descended into Safford Notch. The forest was very pretty in the mottled sunlight. There was a relocation which added a mile to the Trail, unexpectedly, however it passed through attractive mossy rocky forest and wasn’t too difficult. The Trail then climbed up on to Little Bigelow Mountain and I found a nice sunny spot on a flat rock with a view for a late lunch at 3pm. After lunch, the Trail descended from the Bigelow Range using another “relo” and offered some views. It then went through deciduous forest and some boggy areas. I reached Jerome Brook Lean-To at 6:30pm and found it empty. I had a wash and dinner without incident on a pleasant sunny evening and decided to take a chance and drink the water untreated, though the stream was at low altitude. Went to bed at 8:30pm and did my diary by candlelight.
Date: Wednesday, 13 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 18.8
Daily Other Miles: 1.0 (relocation).
Total AT Miles: 1976.2
Total All Miles: 2034.2
Weather: Mild, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Eggs, bacon, orange juice.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Squirrels, grouse.
People Seen: 15 overnight hikers, 3 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 7:40am and finished packing before going down to breakfast, which Jerry cooked. Two eggs and toast wasn’t really enough, but what could I say. After breakfast, Jerry gave me a lift back to the Trail for a dollar, and I was walking by 8:50am, which was good. It was a perfect day as I began the ascent of the Bigelow Range – the last big mountains before Katahdin. I was in good spirits and the climb wasn’t too tough. My pace was a little better than expected and I reached the west summit of Bigelow Mountain soon after noon and admired the fantastic views in all directions – lakes, forests, mountains, towns. I continued on over the eastern peak enjoying views all the way then descended into Safford Notch. The forest was very pretty in the mottled sunlight. There was a relocation which added a mile to the Trail, unexpectedly, however it passed through attractive mossy rocky forest and wasn’t too difficult. The Trail then climbed up on to Little Bigelow Mountain and I found a nice sunny spot on a flat rock with a view for a late lunch at 3pm. After lunch, the Trail descended from the Bigelow Range using another “relo” and offered some views. It then went through deciduous forest and some boggy areas. I reached Jerome Brook Lean-To at 6:30pm and found it empty. I had a wash and dinner without incident on a pleasant sunny evening and decided to take a chance and drink the water untreated, though the stream was at low altitude. Went to bed at 8:30pm and did my diary by candlelight.
Appalachian Trail - Day 102
Day: 102
Date: Tuesday, 12 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 12.9
Daily Other Miles: 0.5
Total AT Miles: 1957.4
Total All Miles: 2014.4
Weather: Sunny, mild, windy.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli.
Lunch: Tuna sub, ice-cream.
Dinner: Chicken, salad, ice-cream.
Aches: Bruised thigh and elbow from fall.
Animals Seen: Grouse.
People Seen: 5 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
We got up at 5am in order to reach ME 27 and John’s father by 1pm. We did not have a good night because of the tossing and turning of the three boys in the shelter which rocked its flimsy floor. At one point, John said loudly “for crying out loud!”. I think they got the message. After a hurried breakfast and packing we left at 6:15am and returned to the new AT via the very rough side-trail then began our ascent of Spaulding Mountain. It was a crisp clear morning – a good day for hiking. Near the summit, we took a short side-trail to the peak and enjoyed some good views. From there we pressed on north-east past the side-trail to Sugarloaf Mountain where John was tempted to detour to capture another 4000’ mountain. We then descended gradually, then steeply, to the south branch of the Carrabasset River. On the way down, I slipped twice in quick succession breaking my watch strap the first time, and suffering some grazes and a bad thigh bruise the second. More care required. We had a short break a bit past the river and adjacent road before making the solid ascent of the twin-peaked Crocker Mountain. We made good time and got some good views on the way up and from the north peak where we had our second break. We left there at 11am, leaving us two hours, for the remaining five miles. We hoped to arrive exactly on time but, despite reasonable going, arrived at 1:10pm. We found John’s dad waiting for us as arranged and they drove me the five miles into Stratton and Widow’s Walk, an historic bed and breakfast place. We said our goodbyes and they headed for Boston. No-one was around, but notices invited me to sign in and select a room, which I did. After a shower, I walked up the street of the pretty town, put my laundry on and bought a sub and milkshake for lunch. I sent off a card to Vic, a mutual friend, as suggested by John, then collected the laundry and did my shopping before returning to the B&B, registering and writing a letter to Barb. I went to a nearby pub for dinner, then returned to the B&B, repacked my food and went down to the lounge for a while. Hosts, Jerry and Mary, lent me a set of pliers with which I repaired my watch band. At 9:30pm I returned to my room and listened to the radio while looking at my maps, planning my final days and writing up my diary. A call to Marj in Boston to determine if my air-ticket had arrived was not successful, so I decided to leave ringing Barb till Monson, by which time I might know for sure.
Date: Tuesday, 12 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 12.9
Daily Other Miles: 0.5
Total AT Miles: 1957.4
Total All Miles: 2014.4
Weather: Sunny, mild, windy.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli.
Lunch: Tuna sub, ice-cream.
Dinner: Chicken, salad, ice-cream.
Aches: Bruised thigh and elbow from fall.
Animals Seen: Grouse.
People Seen: 5 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
We got up at 5am in order to reach ME 27 and John’s father by 1pm. We did not have a good night because of the tossing and turning of the three boys in the shelter which rocked its flimsy floor. At one point, John said loudly “for crying out loud!”. I think they got the message. After a hurried breakfast and packing we left at 6:15am and returned to the new AT via the very rough side-trail then began our ascent of Spaulding Mountain. It was a crisp clear morning – a good day for hiking. Near the summit, we took a short side-trail to the peak and enjoyed some good views. From there we pressed on north-east past the side-trail to Sugarloaf Mountain where John was tempted to detour to capture another 4000’ mountain. We then descended gradually, then steeply, to the south branch of the Carrabasset River. On the way down, I slipped twice in quick succession breaking my watch strap the first time, and suffering some grazes and a bad thigh bruise the second. More care required. We had a short break a bit past the river and adjacent road before making the solid ascent of the twin-peaked Crocker Mountain. We made good time and got some good views on the way up and from the north peak where we had our second break. We left there at 11am, leaving us two hours, for the remaining five miles. We hoped to arrive exactly on time but, despite reasonable going, arrived at 1:10pm. We found John’s dad waiting for us as arranged and they drove me the five miles into Stratton and Widow’s Walk, an historic bed and breakfast place. We said our goodbyes and they headed for Boston. No-one was around, but notices invited me to sign in and select a room, which I did. After a shower, I walked up the street of the pretty town, put my laundry on and bought a sub and milkshake for lunch. I sent off a card to Vic, a mutual friend, as suggested by John, then collected the laundry and did my shopping before returning to the B&B, registering and writing a letter to Barb. I went to a nearby pub for dinner, then returned to the B&B, repacked my food and went down to the lounge for a while. Hosts, Jerry and Mary, lent me a set of pliers with which I repaired my watch band. At 9:30pm I returned to my room and listened to the radio while looking at my maps, planning my final days and writing up my diary. A call to Marj in Boston to determine if my air-ticket had arrived was not successful, so I decided to leave ringing Barb till Monson, by which time I might know for sure.
Appalachian Trail - Day 101
Day: 101
Date: Monday, 11 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 16.0
Daily Other Miles: 1.0 (0.5 relocation, 0.5 to Shelter).
Total AT Miles: 1944.5
Total All Miles: 2001.0
Weather: Cloudy and rain at first, clearing and warm later.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bars.
Dinner: Rice and shrimp creole sauce, pop tarts.
Aches: None bad (feet look mouldy).
Animals Seen: Grouse, squirrels.
People Seen: 24 overnight hikers.
Journal:
We got up at 5:30am to intermittent rain. The Trail did not look inviting, but we set out at around 7:15am during a lull in the rain. We first climbed Saddleback Mountain and reached the summit in a little under two hours. The weather steadily improved on the way up and actually cleared briefly as we reached the summit. John and I running up the last 100 feet or so in full packs to get some views must have looked amusing. We did get some views, which were better than nothing, of vast tracts of forests, mountains and lakes. For a while, the Trail followed the bare rocky crest, before descending. En route, we climbed up the North Peak and Saddleback Junior, both demanding, before following an easier, though still boggy, ridge. It began to rain a little at 11:45am, 15 minutes before we reached our planned lunch stop at Poplar Ridge Lean-To. There we ate lunch and talked to the “born-again” “Wayfaring Man” who was hiking parts of the AT, and a mother and son hiking team, both knowledgeable on mountain climbing. We left there just before 1pm with 7½ miles to go to our planned stop of Spaulding Mountain Lean-To, but conscious that there was a new “relo” (trail relocation) which purportedly added miles and was tough going. We met a number of hikers headed towards Poplar Ridge Lean-To for the night and we joked that our target shelter would probably again be full of French-Canadians. The “relo” was hard going, but paralleled a beautiful waterfall and some lovely brooks as well as passing through pretty forest. To our surprise, we reached the Lean-To turn-off at 4:50pm and, despite a very rough trail, reached the Lean-To at 5:00pm. It was full of French Canadians! We had a good dinner then rested amidst the babble of French voices. John found it a bit wearing, and it certainly wasn’t quiet. We went to bed at 8:45pm as the noise gradually subsided.
Date: Monday, 11 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 16.0
Daily Other Miles: 1.0 (0.5 relocation, 0.5 to Shelter).
Total AT Miles: 1944.5
Total All Miles: 2001.0
Weather: Cloudy and rain at first, clearing and warm later.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bars.
Dinner: Rice and shrimp creole sauce, pop tarts.
Aches: None bad (feet look mouldy).
Animals Seen: Grouse, squirrels.
People Seen: 24 overnight hikers.
Journal:
We got up at 5:30am to intermittent rain. The Trail did not look inviting, but we set out at around 7:15am during a lull in the rain. We first climbed Saddleback Mountain and reached the summit in a little under two hours. The weather steadily improved on the way up and actually cleared briefly as we reached the summit. John and I running up the last 100 feet or so in full packs to get some views must have looked amusing. We did get some views, which were better than nothing, of vast tracts of forests, mountains and lakes. For a while, the Trail followed the bare rocky crest, before descending. En route, we climbed up the North Peak and Saddleback Junior, both demanding, before following an easier, though still boggy, ridge. It began to rain a little at 11:45am, 15 minutes before we reached our planned lunch stop at Poplar Ridge Lean-To. There we ate lunch and talked to the “born-again” “Wayfaring Man” who was hiking parts of the AT, and a mother and son hiking team, both knowledgeable on mountain climbing. We left there just before 1pm with 7½ miles to go to our planned stop of Spaulding Mountain Lean-To, but conscious that there was a new “relo” (trail relocation) which purportedly added miles and was tough going. We met a number of hikers headed towards Poplar Ridge Lean-To for the night and we joked that our target shelter would probably again be full of French-Canadians. The “relo” was hard going, but paralleled a beautiful waterfall and some lovely brooks as well as passing through pretty forest. To our surprise, we reached the Lean-To turn-off at 4:50pm and, despite a very rough trail, reached the Lean-To at 5:00pm. It was full of French Canadians! We had a good dinner then rested amidst the babble of French voices. John found it a bit wearing, and it certainly wasn’t quiet. We went to bed at 8:45pm as the noise gradually subsided.
Appalachian Trail - Day 100
Day: 100
Date: Sunday, 10 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 22.3
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1928.5
Total All Miles: 1984.0
Weather: Warm, humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bars.
Dinner: Noodles and sauce, pop tarts.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Squirrels, grouse.
People Seen: 3 overnight hikers, 9 day hikers, some others.
Journal:
We got up at 5:30am and left about 6:45am with the daunting prospect of over 22 miles in front of us on the boggy Maine trails. Fortunately, there were no major mountains on our route for the day. We set off in foggy damp conditions and first climbed to the fairly bare summit of Beamis Peak but couldn’t really see anything. The Trail then descended over a series of knobs until it reached Beamis Stream. It was too wide to rock-hop across and we both ended up just ploughing through it. By this time the weather was clearing and after our steep ascent to ME 17, we had a great view over the lakes, forests and mountains to the west. We only stopped for a short time to admire the view because we were conscious of the distance we still had to go. The Trail levelled out a little, though still gradually ascending, and was often boggy, slowing us occasionally. John saw a moose, but I missed it! John stepped up the pace in the better going parts, and I hung on. We reached a lovely beach on the north-east end of Long Pond and we both washed our socks and I went for a lovely swim during the 40 minutes we stayed there. We then left to walk another five miles to the Little Swift River Pond campsite where we planned to have a late lunch. The Trail continued to be boggy and, at one point, newly clean from my swim, I slipped on a root and fell sideways into some lovely black mud, dirtying my whole left side. We reached the Pond around 3pm and spent 45 minutes eating and resting. We then moved off through more deciduous forest and boggy trail with the intention of breaking the remaining six miles into two three-mile sections. However, we missed the rocky ledge supposedly marking the halfway point, and walked all the way to ME 4 leaving us only 1½ miles to go. We were pleased that it looked like we were going to reach the Shelter at Piazza Rock at around 7pm – an hour earlier than last night. There were about five cars parked at the trail-head and, as we climbed towards the Lean-To through the forest, we heard a loud screech of tyres and then two big bangs of a car crash. Probably some of the parked cars. We decided we wouldn’t be able to do anything, so didn’t return to the scene. We were very pleased to reach the Lean-To at 7pm and find no-one else there (though there was a care-taker in a tent about 100 yards away). We washed and had dinner, congratulating ourselves on having an empty shelter, when a father and son hiking team turned up, very tired, at 8:15pm. We chatted with them and the care-taker, who brought us some cookies, before retiring around 9pm.
Date: Sunday, 10 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 22.3
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1928.5
Total All Miles: 1984.0
Weather: Warm, humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bars.
Dinner: Noodles and sauce, pop tarts.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Squirrels, grouse.
People Seen: 3 overnight hikers, 9 day hikers, some others.
Journal:
We got up at 5:30am and left about 6:45am with the daunting prospect of over 22 miles in front of us on the boggy Maine trails. Fortunately, there were no major mountains on our route for the day. We set off in foggy damp conditions and first climbed to the fairly bare summit of Beamis Peak but couldn’t really see anything. The Trail then descended over a series of knobs until it reached Beamis Stream. It was too wide to rock-hop across and we both ended up just ploughing through it. By this time the weather was clearing and after our steep ascent to ME 17, we had a great view over the lakes, forests and mountains to the west. We only stopped for a short time to admire the view because we were conscious of the distance we still had to go. The Trail levelled out a little, though still gradually ascending, and was often boggy, slowing us occasionally. John saw a moose, but I missed it! John stepped up the pace in the better going parts, and I hung on. We reached a lovely beach on the north-east end of Long Pond and we both washed our socks and I went for a lovely swim during the 40 minutes we stayed there. We then left to walk another five miles to the Little Swift River Pond campsite where we planned to have a late lunch. The Trail continued to be boggy and, at one point, newly clean from my swim, I slipped on a root and fell sideways into some lovely black mud, dirtying my whole left side. We reached the Pond around 3pm and spent 45 minutes eating and resting. We then moved off through more deciduous forest and boggy trail with the intention of breaking the remaining six miles into two three-mile sections. However, we missed the rocky ledge supposedly marking the halfway point, and walked all the way to ME 4 leaving us only 1½ miles to go. We were pleased that it looked like we were going to reach the Shelter at Piazza Rock at around 7pm – an hour earlier than last night. There were about five cars parked at the trail-head and, as we climbed towards the Lean-To through the forest, we heard a loud screech of tyres and then two big bangs of a car crash. Probably some of the parked cars. We decided we wouldn’t be able to do anything, so didn’t return to the scene. We were very pleased to reach the Lean-To at 7pm and find no-one else there (though there was a care-taker in a tent about 100 yards away). We washed and had dinner, congratulating ourselves on having an empty shelter, when a father and son hiking team turned up, very tired, at 8:15pm. We chatted with them and the care-taker, who brought us some cookies, before retiring around 9pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 099
Day: 099
Date: Saturday, 9 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 20.0
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1906.2
Total All Miles: 1961.7
Weather: Warm, humid, mostly overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink, sub, ice-cream.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter.
Dinner: Cheese Florentine, pop tarts.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Grouse, squirrels.
People Seen: 20 overnight hikers, some others.
Journal:
Got up at 6am and left at 7:25am hoping that it would only take two hours for the for the five miles down to the road where I was supposed to meet John. The going wasn’t too bad, and I arrived there 1½ minutes ahead of schedule. John was impressed. He was waiting there with his father and they drove me the eight miles into Andover where I resupplied and bought a sub, a quart of orange juice, and a pint of ice-cream. We drove back to the Trail and, after a quick re-pack, set off with 15½ miles to go at 10:45am. The first six miles to Hall Mountain Lean-To were covered in 2½ hours and we stopped there for lunch. The Trail wasn’t too bad, but was becoming more boggy. After lunch, our progress seemed to be much slower though it was hard to know whether it was because we were slower or because the miles were long. We descended steeply into Sawyer Notch, then had a tough climb up and down a mountain, then another big ascent to the 3600’ mountain of Old Blue. Unfortunately, the fog was thick and there were no views, but at least the rain had stopped. We were both tired and still had three miles to go. It went very slowly as we crossed bog after bog and didn’t reach Elephant Mountain Lean-To until 8:10pm. It was already fairly dark and we were disappointed to find the place crowded with a French-Canadian camp group and several other hikers. There was only room for one more in the Shelter, so John slept there and I put up my tent while John cooked us some dinner. Within and hour we were in bed.
Date: Saturday, 9 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 20.0
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1906.2
Total All Miles: 1961.7
Weather: Warm, humid, mostly overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink, sub, ice-cream.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter.
Dinner: Cheese Florentine, pop tarts.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Grouse, squirrels.
People Seen: 20 overnight hikers, some others.
Journal:
Got up at 6am and left at 7:25am hoping that it would only take two hours for the for the five miles down to the road where I was supposed to meet John. The going wasn’t too bad, and I arrived there 1½ minutes ahead of schedule. John was impressed. He was waiting there with his father and they drove me the eight miles into Andover where I resupplied and bought a sub, a quart of orange juice, and a pint of ice-cream. We drove back to the Trail and, after a quick re-pack, set off with 15½ miles to go at 10:45am. The first six miles to Hall Mountain Lean-To were covered in 2½ hours and we stopped there for lunch. The Trail wasn’t too bad, but was becoming more boggy. After lunch, our progress seemed to be much slower though it was hard to know whether it was because we were slower or because the miles were long. We descended steeply into Sawyer Notch, then had a tough climb up and down a mountain, then another big ascent to the 3600’ mountain of Old Blue. Unfortunately, the fog was thick and there were no views, but at least the rain had stopped. We were both tired and still had three miles to go. It went very slowly as we crossed bog after bog and didn’t reach Elephant Mountain Lean-To until 8:10pm. It was already fairly dark and we were disappointed to find the place crowded with a French-Canadian camp group and several other hikers. There was only room for one more in the Shelter, so John slept there and I put up my tent while John cooked us some dinner. Within and hour we were in bed.
Appalachian Trail - Day 098
Day: 098
Date: Friday, 8 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 19.4
Daily Other Miles: 0.3
Total AT Miles: 1886.2
Total All Miles: 1941.7
Weather: Warm, humid, overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, 2 health bars.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Grouse, squirrels.
People Seen: 1 AT Thru-hiker (southbound), 3 overnight hikers, 1 other.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am with the prospect of a long hard day through the Mahoosucs so as to be within range of my rendezvous with John tomorrow morning. I was already doubting the wisdom of my schedule. I set out a bit before 7am and climbed up on to Goose Mountain. I was rewarded with fantastic views in all directions. Vast forests, some lakes, and peaks poking through the clouds. All could be seen from the bare summits. Rocks were slippery and the muddy slopes treacherous as I continued north towards Mahoosuc Notch. The descent was hair-raising. On reaching the Notch, I entered the supposed toughest mile on the Trail. It involved scrambling over, around, and under huge rocks which had tumbled to the bottom of the gorge some time past. Near the bottom, the temperature was distinctly cooler and in crevasses could be seen snow and ice. I took just over an hour to negotiate the extremely strenuous stretch, then had to climb the Mahoosuc Arm of Old Speck Mountain. It was a tough climb and no view at the top because of fog. Progress was very slow as I pushed on to Old Speck Pond and the Shelter there for a 2pm lunch. There was a French-Canadian hiker there having a day off to dry some wet gear. She was an artist from Montreal and very friendly and I felt more than a little encouraged to stay for the night. However, I needed to press on. The Trail then climbed steeply up Old Speck Mountain (no views again because of fog) before plunging steeply into Grafton Notch – the end of the Mahoosucs. It was getting late, and I was very tired but, after a brief rest,, started climbing the next mountain in my path, Bald Pate. I crossed the summit soon after 7pm. It was a barren forbidding place in thick fog and I didn’t hang around. The last few miles took longer than I expected and it was fairly dark by the time I reached Frye Notch Shelter at 8:40pm. There was no-one there, although there was some discarded camping gear around, and the very loud thunderstorm that arrived at the same time as I did, lit up the place spookily. I had a quick cold dinner by candlelight before retiring at 9:30pm.
Date: Friday, 8 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 19.4
Daily Other Miles: 0.3
Total AT Miles: 1886.2
Total All Miles: 1941.7
Weather: Warm, humid, overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, 2 health bars.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Grouse, squirrels.
People Seen: 1 AT Thru-hiker (southbound), 3 overnight hikers, 1 other.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am with the prospect of a long hard day through the Mahoosucs so as to be within range of my rendezvous with John tomorrow morning. I was already doubting the wisdom of my schedule. I set out a bit before 7am and climbed up on to Goose Mountain. I was rewarded with fantastic views in all directions. Vast forests, some lakes, and peaks poking through the clouds. All could be seen from the bare summits. Rocks were slippery and the muddy slopes treacherous as I continued north towards Mahoosuc Notch. The descent was hair-raising. On reaching the Notch, I entered the supposed toughest mile on the Trail. It involved scrambling over, around, and under huge rocks which had tumbled to the bottom of the gorge some time past. Near the bottom, the temperature was distinctly cooler and in crevasses could be seen snow and ice. I took just over an hour to negotiate the extremely strenuous stretch, then had to climb the Mahoosuc Arm of Old Speck Mountain. It was a tough climb and no view at the top because of fog. Progress was very slow as I pushed on to Old Speck Pond and the Shelter there for a 2pm lunch. There was a French-Canadian hiker there having a day off to dry some wet gear. She was an artist from Montreal and very friendly and I felt more than a little encouraged to stay for the night. However, I needed to press on. The Trail then climbed steeply up Old Speck Mountain (no views again because of fog) before plunging steeply into Grafton Notch – the end of the Mahoosucs. It was getting late, and I was very tired but, after a brief rest,, started climbing the next mountain in my path, Bald Pate. I crossed the summit soon after 7pm. It was a barren forbidding place in thick fog and I didn’t hang around. The last few miles took longer than I expected and it was fairly dark by the time I reached Frye Notch Shelter at 8:40pm. There was no-one there, although there was some discarded camping gear around, and the very loud thunderstorm that arrived at the same time as I did, lit up the place spookily. I had a quick cold dinner by candlelight before retiring at 9:30pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 097
Day: 097
Date: Thursday, 7 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 18.8
Daily Other Miles: 1.3 (1.0 to Gorham, 0.3 to Shelter).
Total AT Miles: 1866.8
Total All Miles: 1922.0
Weather: Warm, humid, overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Cornflakes, eggs, burger, brownies.
Lunch: Gorp.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Squirrels.
People Seen: 1 AT Thru-hiker, 20 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and packed and left by 6:15am without having breakfast. After ½ and hour walking, I reached US 2 and began walking and hitching towards Gorham. I soon got a lift which dropped me off at the town Laundromat at 7am. I put my laundry on and rang Bo and arranged to send suggested rendezvous details to her mother’s in Salem. I also tried to call Bruce, but he wasn’t going to be there for another 1½ hours. I went to an adjacent restaurant for a big breakfast before going to the supermarket to do my shopping. After that, I rang Bruce again, sent a card to Ray and Marilyn, ate some brownies and drank a quart of chocolate milk before walking out of town and beginning to hitch. I soon got a lift and began walking on the AT again at 10:40am. I was now in the Mahoosucs and still had 17½ miles to go. The Mahoosucs are supposed to be the toughest range on the Trail. The first few miles were pretty easy as the Trail climbed to the ridge. There were some views, but it was foggy/hazy. It began to rain steadily for a while and I decided to keep walking to the Gentian Pond Shelter for a late snack and give lunch a miss. En route, I passed Dan, Chuck and Arletta, and caught “Lumberjack”, another AT Thru-hiker. The Shelter was full of people and I sat in the entrance talking to some of them. The scenery from the Shelter was dramatic. They thought I was silly to go on the six miles to Carlo Col Shelter when it was already 4:30pm, but I had to meet John C in a couple of days and was confident I could get there in daylight, despite the Trail being slow because of the mud, rocks, and steep ascents and descents. I reached the Shelter and was pleased to find only three people there – Bob and Patty, and Wes. I repacked my Gorham-purchased food by torch and candle before eating a cold dinner and going to bed at 9pm. I was now in Maine.
Date: Thursday, 7 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 18.8
Daily Other Miles: 1.3 (1.0 to Gorham, 0.3 to Shelter).
Total AT Miles: 1866.8
Total All Miles: 1922.0
Weather: Warm, humid, overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Cornflakes, eggs, burger, brownies.
Lunch: Gorp.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Squirrels.
People Seen: 1 AT Thru-hiker, 20 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and packed and left by 6:15am without having breakfast. After ½ and hour walking, I reached US 2 and began walking and hitching towards Gorham. I soon got a lift which dropped me off at the town Laundromat at 7am. I put my laundry on and rang Bo and arranged to send suggested rendezvous details to her mother’s in Salem. I also tried to call Bruce, but he wasn’t going to be there for another 1½ hours. I went to an adjacent restaurant for a big breakfast before going to the supermarket to do my shopping. After that, I rang Bruce again, sent a card to Ray and Marilyn, ate some brownies and drank a quart of chocolate milk before walking out of town and beginning to hitch. I soon got a lift and began walking on the AT again at 10:40am. I was now in the Mahoosucs and still had 17½ miles to go. The Mahoosucs are supposed to be the toughest range on the Trail. The first few miles were pretty easy as the Trail climbed to the ridge. There were some views, but it was foggy/hazy. It began to rain steadily for a while and I decided to keep walking to the Gentian Pond Shelter for a late snack and give lunch a miss. En route, I passed Dan, Chuck and Arletta, and caught “Lumberjack”, another AT Thru-hiker. The Shelter was full of people and I sat in the entrance talking to some of them. The scenery from the Shelter was dramatic. They thought I was silly to go on the six miles to Carlo Col Shelter when it was already 4:30pm, but I had to meet John C in a couple of days and was confident I could get there in daylight, despite the Trail being slow because of the mud, rocks, and steep ascents and descents. I reached the Shelter and was pleased to find only three people there – Bob and Patty, and Wes. I repacked my Gorham-purchased food by torch and candle before eating a cold dinner and going to bed at 9pm. I was now in Maine.
Appalachian Trail - Day 096
Day: 096
Date: Wednesday, 6 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 18.4
Daily Other Miles: 0.2 (to Carter Notch Hut)
Total AT Miles: 1848.0
Total All Miles: 1901.9
Weather: Very warm, humid, mainly overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Fruit, oats, French toast, sausages.
Lunch: Stew.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, brownies.
Aches: Chafing in crutch.
Animals Seen: 2 small snakes, squirrels.
People Seen: 3 AT Hikers (by sections), 4 overnight hikers, 8 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 6am so I could try calling Barb and Bo Cocks before breakfast then make a quick getaway on what promised to be a tough 20 miles over the Carter Range to US 2 and a hitch into Gorham for the night. Bo was out, and Barb didn’t answer. I packed, woke Pete, and we went across to the 6:45am breakfast. I ate a lot and it was good. Pete then went out to the highway to catch his bus back to Boston. We said a short goodbye and I then tried to call Barb one more time and this time got her. We chatted for over 20 minutes. I think she’s ready for me to come home. She also said Bruce B (one of my colleagues at Syntec) was trying to get hold of me to do something for them in the US prior to my return. I left Pinkham Notch just before 8am and began the very tough climb up to the 4000’ level on Carter Ridge. Fortunately, this section of the AMC trails has less people on it, although I did meet a number of people heading to Pinkham Notch from the AMC Carter Notch Hut, six miles along the Trail. I got very tired hiking on the rugged Trail, but enjoyed the views and walked non-stop to Carter Notch Hut. It was a very pretty spot next to a couple of lakes. The Hut boys were very chatty and gave me two full bowls of stew for nothing. I decided to call it lunch – it had taken me three hours to hike the six miles from Pinkham Notch, making US 2 look doubtful by dusk. I left at 11:45am and began yet another very steep and tiring ascent to Carter Dome (4800’). The Trail continued to be very tough and slow but, despite feeling very tired, I just kept plugging away. The views were good and I was in good spirits. I stopped on a rock ledge with terrific views near Imp Shelter for afternoon tea before pushing on for the last six miles to Rattle River Shelter. The Trail was becoming slightly faster walking. I arrived at the Shelter at 7:30pm after descending from Carter Ridge and met three elderly AT Hikers – Dan and Chuck and Arletta. They had done Georgia to Harpers Ferry last year and were doing Harpers Ferry to Maine this year. They were very friendly and Dan gave me some brownies (his wife had visited them at the Shelter earlier) to accompany my biscuits and peanut butter dinner. I’d decided it wasn’t worth walking the extra 1½ miles to US 2 and hitching into Gorham since it would be too late to do anything and just cost me money. An early start tomorrow, since I’ve got to cover sufficient miles to meet John C on Saturday morning.
Date: Wednesday, 6 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 18.4
Daily Other Miles: 0.2 (to Carter Notch Hut)
Total AT Miles: 1848.0
Total All Miles: 1901.9
Weather: Very warm, humid, mainly overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Fruit, oats, French toast, sausages.
Lunch: Stew.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, brownies.
Aches: Chafing in crutch.
Animals Seen: 2 small snakes, squirrels.
People Seen: 3 AT Hikers (by sections), 4 overnight hikers, 8 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 6am so I could try calling Barb and Bo Cocks before breakfast then make a quick getaway on what promised to be a tough 20 miles over the Carter Range to US 2 and a hitch into Gorham for the night. Bo was out, and Barb didn’t answer. I packed, woke Pete, and we went across to the 6:45am breakfast. I ate a lot and it was good. Pete then went out to the highway to catch his bus back to Boston. We said a short goodbye and I then tried to call Barb one more time and this time got her. We chatted for over 20 minutes. I think she’s ready for me to come home. She also said Bruce B (one of my colleagues at Syntec) was trying to get hold of me to do something for them in the US prior to my return. I left Pinkham Notch just before 8am and began the very tough climb up to the 4000’ level on Carter Ridge. Fortunately, this section of the AMC trails has less people on it, although I did meet a number of people heading to Pinkham Notch from the AMC Carter Notch Hut, six miles along the Trail. I got very tired hiking on the rugged Trail, but enjoyed the views and walked non-stop to Carter Notch Hut. It was a very pretty spot next to a couple of lakes. The Hut boys were very chatty and gave me two full bowls of stew for nothing. I decided to call it lunch – it had taken me three hours to hike the six miles from Pinkham Notch, making US 2 look doubtful by dusk. I left at 11:45am and began yet another very steep and tiring ascent to Carter Dome (4800’). The Trail continued to be very tough and slow but, despite feeling very tired, I just kept plugging away. The views were good and I was in good spirits. I stopped on a rock ledge with terrific views near Imp Shelter for afternoon tea before pushing on for the last six miles to Rattle River Shelter. The Trail was becoming slightly faster walking. I arrived at the Shelter at 7:30pm after descending from Carter Ridge and met three elderly AT Hikers – Dan and Chuck and Arletta. They had done Georgia to Harpers Ferry last year and were doing Harpers Ferry to Maine this year. They were very friendly and Dan gave me some brownies (his wife had visited them at the Shelter earlier) to accompany my biscuits and peanut butter dinner. I’d decided it wasn’t worth walking the extra 1½ miles to US 2 and hitching into Gorham since it would be too late to do anything and just cost me money. An early start tomorrow, since I’ve got to cover sufficient miles to meet John C on Saturday morning.
Appalachian Trail - Day 095
Day: 095
Date: Tuesday, 5 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 14.4
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1829.6
Total All Miles: 1883.3
Weather: Cool up high, windy, partly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Porridge, pancakes.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, Hershey Bars.
Dinner: Soup, chicken and vegetables, custard.
Aches: None.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: Many.
Journal:
Got up at 6:30am and packed up before going up to the dining room for breakfast at 7am. It was a big breakfast (people kept giving me extra) and we talked with Ruth, Bob and others. As always, everybody was impressed with the Thru-hikers. We left soon after 8am for the 1½ mile climb to the Mount Washington summit which is very developed (Barb and I had been there before). I planned to ring Barb from there but, despite trying for an hour, had no luck. She must be away for the night. A ranger let me into the Post Office and I picked up a couple of letters. Because of hanging around for the phone calls to Melbourne we didn’t leave the summit until after 10am, which was later than planned. By this time, fog had closed in but we’d had excellent views on the way up. The Trail followed the cog railway and we saw three trains. As we went down, the fog cleared and we again had excellent views. The trail followed the northern spur of the Presidential Range which was above the tree-line and although rocky and slow gave great views. It was an ideal day for travelling this route. It took us about three hours to walk the six miles to the AMC Madison Hut where we stopped for lunch. Ruth and Bob were there again. We had lunch and left at 2:15pm, giving us 3¾ hours to cover the six miles to the AMC Pinkham Notch Camp, where we were booked for the night, in time for dinner at 6pm. It took us a slow scenic hour to cover the first mile and the next two miles of mainly steep descent weren’t much faster. We re-entered the forest and found that we had further to go than we had thought. The last three miles were covered in a mad rush through pretty forest and we arrived at Pinkham Notch at 6:15pm and were hurried in late for dinner, which was good. After dinner, we checked in, showered and spent some time in the lounge drinking Cokes and me trying to ring the Cocks’ and Cederholm’s to arrange meetings further up the Trail. Peter was sore and tired, but seemed to have enjoyed himself.
Date: Tuesday, 5 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 14.4
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1829.6
Total All Miles: 1883.3
Weather: Cool up high, windy, partly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Porridge, pancakes.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, Hershey Bars.
Dinner: Soup, chicken and vegetables, custard.
Aches: None.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: Many.
Journal:
Got up at 6:30am and packed up before going up to the dining room for breakfast at 7am. It was a big breakfast (people kept giving me extra) and we talked with Ruth, Bob and others. As always, everybody was impressed with the Thru-hikers. We left soon after 8am for the 1½ mile climb to the Mount Washington summit which is very developed (Barb and I had been there before). I planned to ring Barb from there but, despite trying for an hour, had no luck. She must be away for the night. A ranger let me into the Post Office and I picked up a couple of letters. Because of hanging around for the phone calls to Melbourne we didn’t leave the summit until after 10am, which was later than planned. By this time, fog had closed in but we’d had excellent views on the way up. The Trail followed the cog railway and we saw three trains. As we went down, the fog cleared and we again had excellent views. The trail followed the northern spur of the Presidential Range which was above the tree-line and although rocky and slow gave great views. It was an ideal day for travelling this route. It took us about three hours to walk the six miles to the AMC Madison Hut where we stopped for lunch. Ruth and Bob were there again. We had lunch and left at 2:15pm, giving us 3¾ hours to cover the six miles to the AMC Pinkham Notch Camp, where we were booked for the night, in time for dinner at 6pm. It took us a slow scenic hour to cover the first mile and the next two miles of mainly steep descent weren’t much faster. We re-entered the forest and found that we had further to go than we had thought. The last three miles were covered in a mad rush through pretty forest and we arrived at Pinkham Notch at 6:15pm and were hurried in late for dinner, which was good. After dinner, we checked in, showered and spent some time in the lounge drinking Cokes and me trying to ring the Cocks’ and Cederholm’s to arrange meetings further up the Trail. Peter was sore and tired, but seemed to have enjoyed himself.
Appalachian Trail - Day 094
Day: 094
Date: Monday, 4 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 14.0
Daily Other Miles: 0.2 (from Shelter)
Total AT Miles: 1815.2
Total All Miles: 1868.9
Weather: Mild, windy, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli.
Lunch: Soup, Hershey chocolate.
Dinner: ?
Aches: None.
Animals Seen: Squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen: Many overnight and day hikers.
Journal:
We got up at 6am on what promised to be a good day for climbing and views. We left at 7:15am for the first 3½ miles which were to be downhill to Crawford Notch before the big ascent up on to the Mount Washington massif (Presidential Range). Peter was pretty worried about the climb. We had to make reasonable progress to be at the AMC Lake of the Clouds Hut by 6pm for dinner. My fears about our rate of progress were realised when Pete’s speed slowed dramatically on the steep climb from the Notch. At our first break, I decided to take the food he was carrying plus the stove. It seemed to do the trick and both his speed and spirits improved thereafter. The rate of ascent wasn’t as great, either. There were some superb views from the cliff-tops the Trail followed. It was an excellent day for views. From here, the Trail essentially followed a long spur towards the peak of Mount Washington (~6300’). We reached the AMC Mizpah Hut more or less on schedule at 12:45pm and had lunch inside. They had All-You-Can-Eat soup for $2 so I had that for lunch plus some chocolate. We left there at 1:45pm for the remaining five miles. We soon climbed above the tree-line and had more excellent views in all directions. Pete was enjoying himself and we made good time, taking only one break before arriving at the Hut at 4:20pm. It was very cold in the wind. After a scare about not being able to get dinner, we checked in and went down to “the dungeon” (for backpackers) which wasn’t as bad as we’d been led to believe by Tom. We then went up to the Hut dining area where 92 people were going to be served dinner. There were only six in the Hut “croo”! It was lights out at 9:30pm, so we retired before then. We were sharing “the dungeon” with Ruth, Bob, Ruth’s daughter and two others.
Date: Monday, 4 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 14.0
Daily Other Miles: 0.2 (from Shelter)
Total AT Miles: 1815.2
Total All Miles: 1868.9
Weather: Mild, windy, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli.
Lunch: Soup, Hershey chocolate.
Dinner: ?
Aches: None.
Animals Seen: Squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen: Many overnight and day hikers.
Journal:
We got up at 6am on what promised to be a good day for climbing and views. We left at 7:15am for the first 3½ miles which were to be downhill to Crawford Notch before the big ascent up on to the Mount Washington massif (Presidential Range). Peter was pretty worried about the climb. We had to make reasonable progress to be at the AMC Lake of the Clouds Hut by 6pm for dinner. My fears about our rate of progress were realised when Pete’s speed slowed dramatically on the steep climb from the Notch. At our first break, I decided to take the food he was carrying plus the stove. It seemed to do the trick and both his speed and spirits improved thereafter. The rate of ascent wasn’t as great, either. There were some superb views from the cliff-tops the Trail followed. It was an excellent day for views. From here, the Trail essentially followed a long spur towards the peak of Mount Washington (~6300’). We reached the AMC Mizpah Hut more or less on schedule at 12:45pm and had lunch inside. They had All-You-Can-Eat soup for $2 so I had that for lunch plus some chocolate. We left there at 1:45pm for the remaining five miles. We soon climbed above the tree-line and had more excellent views in all directions. Pete was enjoying himself and we made good time, taking only one break before arriving at the Hut at 4:20pm. It was very cold in the wind. After a scare about not being able to get dinner, we checked in and went down to “the dungeon” (for backpackers) which wasn’t as bad as we’d been led to believe by Tom. We then went up to the Hut dining area where 92 people were going to be served dinner. There were only six in the Hut “croo”! It was lights out at 9:30pm, so we retired before then. We were sharing “the dungeon” with Ruth, Bob, Ruth’s daughter and two others.
Appalachian Trail - Day 093
Day: 093
Date: Sunday, 3 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 13.7
Daily Other Miles: 0.3 (to shelter)
Total AT Miles: 1801.2
Total All Miles: 1854.7
Weather: Warm, humid, partly sunny, fog in the morning.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Noodles, instant pudding.
Aches: None.
Animals Seen: Squirrels, chipminks.
People Seen: 1 AT Hiker (by sections), many other overnight and day hikers.
Journal:
Got up at 6am after a restless night. Fortunately, it didn’t rain (though it was quite windy) but lots of people climbed over me during the night to get to the loo. I packed up and woke Pete at 6:30am. We had breakfast and left at 7:45am after asking the campsite caretaker to book us into the AMC Lake of the Clouds Hut for tomorrow night. The fog was clearing and we could see some of the closer mountains. The Trail was slow going and we made our first stop at AMC Galehead Hut where we had peanut brittle (good!...all we could eat for 50¢!). We then carried on along the Trail which was mostly through scrubby conifer. We had lunch at an overlook near Zeacliff in improving weather before walking down to the AMC Zeacliff Hut (all the pancakes you could eat for 20¢!...good!). It was then another five miles to our target of Ethan Ponds Shelter. Peter had been moving better today (less uphill) and the last part of the Trail was easy walking with good views and we arrived at 6pm. In residence already was southbound AT Hiker, Tom, and seven young people (kids, really) from some camp. It was pretty noisy, but they all went to bed at 9pm, which was good. Ten of us in the Shelter built for a maximum of eight was a bit of a squeeze, but we managed. It rained a little, but not much, at dusk.
Date: Sunday, 3 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 13.7
Daily Other Miles: 0.3 (to shelter)
Total AT Miles: 1801.2
Total All Miles: 1854.7
Weather: Warm, humid, partly sunny, fog in the morning.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Noodles, instant pudding.
Aches: None.
Animals Seen: Squirrels, chipminks.
People Seen: 1 AT Hiker (by sections), many other overnight and day hikers.
Journal:
Got up at 6am after a restless night. Fortunately, it didn’t rain (though it was quite windy) but lots of people climbed over me during the night to get to the loo. I packed up and woke Pete at 6:30am. We had breakfast and left at 7:45am after asking the campsite caretaker to book us into the AMC Lake of the Clouds Hut for tomorrow night. The fog was clearing and we could see some of the closer mountains. The Trail was slow going and we made our first stop at AMC Galehead Hut where we had peanut brittle (good!...all we could eat for 50¢!). We then carried on along the Trail which was mostly through scrubby conifer. We had lunch at an overlook near Zeacliff in improving weather before walking down to the AMC Zeacliff Hut (all the pancakes you could eat for 20¢!...good!). It was then another five miles to our target of Ethan Ponds Shelter. Peter had been moving better today (less uphill) and the last part of the Trail was easy walking with good views and we arrived at 6pm. In residence already was southbound AT Hiker, Tom, and seven young people (kids, really) from some camp. It was pretty noisy, but they all went to bed at 9pm, which was good. Ten of us in the Shelter built for a maximum of eight was a bit of a squeeze, but we managed. It rained a little, but not much, at dusk.
Appalachian Trail - Day 092
Day: 092
Date: Saturday, 2 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 10.1
Daily Other Miles: 0.8 (to Trail)
Total AT Miles: 1787.5
Total All Miles: 1840.7
Weather: Warm, humid, partly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Eggs, sausages, muffins, pancakes.
Lunch: Chicken rolls.
Dinner: Fettucine, instant pudding.
Aches: None.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: Many overnight hikers, day hikers and others.
Journal:
We got up at 8:15am and had breakfast in the dining room before messing around for a while buying odds and ends around town and leaving at 10:30am. Marj had decided to walk the first few miles with us, so she bought some sandwiches and carried them. Because of construction work, we had to park nearly a mile away from where the AT crossed US 3, so had to walk that distance along new trail before reaching the AT and beginning the ascent of Lafayette Mountain. The climb was tough and relentless and Marj was falling behind, so we stopped earlier than our planned Liberty Spring and, after lunch, bade farewell to Marj who returned down the mountain. She had decided to stay another night in North Woodstock. We continued our ascent. Seventeen year old Peter also began to find the climbing hard and we had more frequent rests and travelled more slowly than I had anticipated. We eventually reached Little Haystack Mountain and were greeted with excellent views. The Trail was now above the tree-line and we had a magnificent walk along the exposed ridge as the Trail passed over a number of peaks including the 5249’ Mount Lafayette. We were there at 5pm and still had four miles to our target of Garfield Ridge Campsite. We pushed on with Peter becoming very tired and eventually reached there at 7:30pm just as a shower of rain passed through. The Shelter was pretty full, but we squeezed in and I cooked dinner outside after the rain stopped. We had the stove so didn’t have to worry about wet wood. We retired at 9pm with me having to sleep right across the entrance of the Shelter hoping it didn’t rain and that I wasn’t stood on as some-one made a night-time excursion.
Date: Saturday, 2 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 10.1
Daily Other Miles: 0.8 (to Trail)
Total AT Miles: 1787.5
Total All Miles: 1840.7
Weather: Warm, humid, partly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Eggs, sausages, muffins, pancakes.
Lunch: Chicken rolls.
Dinner: Fettucine, instant pudding.
Aches: None.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: Many overnight hikers, day hikers and others.
Journal:
We got up at 8:15am and had breakfast in the dining room before messing around for a while buying odds and ends around town and leaving at 10:30am. Marj had decided to walk the first few miles with us, so she bought some sandwiches and carried them. Because of construction work, we had to park nearly a mile away from where the AT crossed US 3, so had to walk that distance along new trail before reaching the AT and beginning the ascent of Lafayette Mountain. The climb was tough and relentless and Marj was falling behind, so we stopped earlier than our planned Liberty Spring and, after lunch, bade farewell to Marj who returned down the mountain. She had decided to stay another night in North Woodstock. We continued our ascent. Seventeen year old Peter also began to find the climbing hard and we had more frequent rests and travelled more slowly than I had anticipated. We eventually reached Little Haystack Mountain and were greeted with excellent views. The Trail was now above the tree-line and we had a magnificent walk along the exposed ridge as the Trail passed over a number of peaks including the 5249’ Mount Lafayette. We were there at 5pm and still had four miles to our target of Garfield Ridge Campsite. We pushed on with Peter becoming very tired and eventually reached there at 7:30pm just as a shower of rain passed through. The Shelter was pretty full, but we squeezed in and I cooked dinner outside after the rain stopped. We had the stove so didn’t have to worry about wet wood. We retired at 9pm with me having to sleep right across the entrance of the Shelter hoping it didn’t rain and that I wasn’t stood on as some-one made a night-time excursion.
Appalachian Trail - Day 091
Day: 091
Date: Friday, 1 August
Daily AT Miles: 8.6
Daily Other Miles: 1.0 (0.7 on road, 0.3 in town)
Total AT Miles: 1777.4
Total All Miles: 1829.8
Weather: Warm, humid, mostly overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Fish and chips, ice-cream.
Dinner: Chilli, veal, ice-cream.
Aches: None.
Animals Seen: Grouse.
People Seen: 6 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
I got up at 5:30am after a wet night, during which I woke up a number of times when rain came in through the mesh screen. It was still drizzling when I woke up, so I moved things into the Shelter as quickly as possible and didn’t get much wet. After putting on wet clothes and socks, I left at about 7am with 8½ miles to go to US 3 and Franconia Notch. The going was very slow as the Trail ascended Mount Kinsman through sopping wet vegetation and up its hairy slippery rock faces. It was very foggy and there were no views, but the scenery was attractive desolate alpine at the summit as I walked to North Kinsman before beginning the risky descent. It took me 3¼ hours to reach the AMC’s Lonesome Lake Hut. The AMC manages a number of huts on trails in the White Mountains which it operates for hikers who do not wish to carry camping gear and food. They offer dormitory-type accommodation and meals, at a price. I went in and rested for ½ an hour during which time I ate a couple of Hershey Bars, some chocolate cake, and some of the remaining pancakes (free) from the Hut breakfast. The Hut looked like a good place to stay. From there it took me just over an hour to walk the three miles down to US 3 and, after mistakenly walking ½ a mile north along the road looking for where the AT left on the other side, I hitched into North Woodstock. I got a lift relatively quickly from a lady who lived in Lincoln and arrived at Cascade House, the guest house where I had arranged to meet Marj and Peter, at 12:30pm. Marj had booked me in, and I had a shower before putting my laundry on and having lunch at a restaurant. I spent the afternoon doing the washing, shopping, food repacking, drying out wet equipment, reading the paper, and eating. During the afternoon, Ruth and Bob turned up (having cut out the Kinsmans Ridge section) as well as the four guys from last night’s Shelter – all very friendly. I started a letter to Barb sitting on the verandah of the guest house at 5:30pm. When half-way through, Marj and Peter turned up and we spent some time sorting out gear before going out to a meal. After dinner, we returned to the verandah to talk and eat our ice-creams for a while before retiring around 10:30pm. It was raining steadily. I had tried, unsuccessfully, to ring Barb a few times. I finished the letter to her and went to sleep at midnight.
Date: Friday, 1 August
Daily AT Miles: 8.6
Daily Other Miles: 1.0 (0.7 on road, 0.3 in town)
Total AT Miles: 1777.4
Total All Miles: 1829.8
Weather: Warm, humid, mostly overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Fish and chips, ice-cream.
Dinner: Chilli, veal, ice-cream.
Aches: None.
Animals Seen: Grouse.
People Seen: 6 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
I got up at 5:30am after a wet night, during which I woke up a number of times when rain came in through the mesh screen. It was still drizzling when I woke up, so I moved things into the Shelter as quickly as possible and didn’t get much wet. After putting on wet clothes and socks, I left at about 7am with 8½ miles to go to US 3 and Franconia Notch. The going was very slow as the Trail ascended Mount Kinsman through sopping wet vegetation and up its hairy slippery rock faces. It was very foggy and there were no views, but the scenery was attractive desolate alpine at the summit as I walked to North Kinsman before beginning the risky descent. It took me 3¼ hours to reach the AMC’s Lonesome Lake Hut. The AMC manages a number of huts on trails in the White Mountains which it operates for hikers who do not wish to carry camping gear and food. They offer dormitory-type accommodation and meals, at a price. I went in and rested for ½ an hour during which time I ate a couple of Hershey Bars, some chocolate cake, and some of the remaining pancakes (free) from the Hut breakfast. The Hut looked like a good place to stay. From there it took me just over an hour to walk the three miles down to US 3 and, after mistakenly walking ½ a mile north along the road looking for where the AT left on the other side, I hitched into North Woodstock. I got a lift relatively quickly from a lady who lived in Lincoln and arrived at Cascade House, the guest house where I had arranged to meet Marj and Peter, at 12:30pm. Marj had booked me in, and I had a shower before putting my laundry on and having lunch at a restaurant. I spent the afternoon doing the washing, shopping, food repacking, drying out wet equipment, reading the paper, and eating. During the afternoon, Ruth and Bob turned up (having cut out the Kinsmans Ridge section) as well as the four guys from last night’s Shelter – all very friendly. I started a letter to Barb sitting on the verandah of the guest house at 5:30pm. When half-way through, Marj and Peter turned up and we spent some time sorting out gear before going out to a meal. After dinner, we returned to the verandah to talk and eat our ice-creams for a while before retiring around 10:30pm. It was raining steadily. I had tried, unsuccessfully, to ring Barb a few times. I finished the letter to her and went to sleep at midnight.
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