In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.

Appalachian Trail - Day 043

Day:  043
Date:  Saturday, 14 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.0
Daily Other Miles:  0.5 (Blue Ridge Parkway Visitors Centre)
Total AT Miles:  832.7
Total All Miles:  859.0
Weather:  Warm, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli.
  Lunch:  Soup, burger, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Omelette, potato skins, ice-cream.
Aches:  Blisters on both heels, wasp sting on left wrist.
Animals Seen:  Turkey, snake, fawn, rabbit, chipmunks, squirrels.
People Seen:  One overnight hiker, six day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:50am when Pete woke me – he and Ridgerunner got up at 5:30am.  I was underway at 7am – my earliest yet.  I anticipated that the Trail would be easy and mainly downhill for the 17 miles to Rockfish Gap.  Because I wasn’t carrying much food, I hoped that it would be a quick trip and that I would be in the Howard Johnsons Restaurant in the Gap soon after 1pm for lunch.  However, much of the Trail was very slow going.  Some of it was through chest-high grass, nettles and weeds just out of sight of the Blue Ridge Parkway, some of it was steep and some of it wound around and over rocks.  There were occasional good views from rocky outcrops but many of the hills again offered nothing for the strenuous climb.  I caught and passed both Peter and Ridgerunner who had similar opinions about the Trail.  After a slow 10 miles, I called in at the Humpback Blue Ridge Parkway Visitor Centre and called Mark to alter our meeting place for tomorrow to the Loft Mountain Picnic Area which would mean I could have the arvo off.  I replenished water and continued along the Trail which remained the same.  I did, however, surprise a fawn sitting on the path and got a very good look at it.  Eventually, I arrived at Rockfish Gap at 3:15pm and went straight to the restaurant for a late lunch.  I bought a pint of ice-cream for dessert and ate it sitting under a tree on the grass near the highway reading the Washington Post.  Peter turned up and we chatted for a while.  Like everybody else, he was headed into Waynesboro for a few days R & R.  I visited the adjacent service station to see if they had food suitable for dinner.  They didn’t.  I bought a few cakes for tomorrow’s breakfast and a couple of cans of Coke and returned to the grass to pass another hour before having an early dinner at the same restaurant.  Ridgerunner turned up.  They were surprised to see me back in the restaurant at 5:45pm.  I had dinner, bought another pint of ice-cream, and hit the Trail at 6:40pm, hoping to reach Calf Mountain Shelter, 7.2 miles away.  I stopped and ate the ice-cream after half an hour and pressed on during a lovely evening on quite a good Trail.  At 9pm, atop Calf Mountain, I called it quits and quickly set up camp.

Appalachian Trail - Day 042

Day:  042
Date:  Friday, 13 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  20.0
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  809.7
Total All Miles:  835.5
Weather:  Mild, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, Quik.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter.
  Dinner:  Various left-overs, macaroni cheese.
Aches:  Both heels blistered.
Animals Seen:  Grouse and chicks, chipmunk.
People Seen:  Seven overnight hikers, some AT Thru-Hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am and all the others left before I got away at 7:40am.  My intention was to hike 20 miles plus make a trip into Tyro, 1¼ miles off the Trail, for food.  The Trail was quite pleasant through forest with the weather cooler and the pack lighter.  I stopped for morning break and finished my letter to Pete & Chris.  The Trail then ascended over a mountain called The Priest. On the way up, I met a black guy who had been staying in the nearby Shelter.  I later discovered he was a novice in the bush and weka had arrived after dark at his Shelter to find him huddled up with a revolver “sorting out a few problems”.  Weka had a sleepless night and an early departure.  Annoyingly, there wasn’t much of a view from the top – another AT bummer.  There was then a very long descent to the Tye River and the road to Tyro.  I sat beside the road to hitch-hike and decided I probably had enough food to get me to the Loft Mountain Campground in Shenandoah National Park so couldn’t be bothered walking to the Tyro store.  I spent half an hour thumbing in the sun and, after no success, gave it away and began climbing the mountain on the other side.  I stopped for lunch at the attractive Harpers Creek Lean-To before climbing on up to Three Ridges.  There was a short-cut – that Pete and Stu took – to Maupin Shelter that avoided the arduous climb to Three Ridges.  It wasn’t so steep, just rocky, winding and covered with nettles.  What’s more, you couldn’t see anything from the top.  There followed a 3 mile descent to Maupin Shelter where I arrived at 6:15pm to find Peter, Weka, and a family group of six.  They had extra food after just finishing dinner, so the three of us finished off an assortment of stew, chilli and chocolate pudding – very nice.  Another pleasant evening – fire already going.

Appalachian Trail - Day 041

Day:  041
Date:  Thursday, 12 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.8
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (to Shelter)
Total AT Miles:  789.7
Total All Miles:  815.5
Weather:  Very warm, humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni pudding, instant pudding.
Aches:  Blisters on toes and both heels.
Animals Seen:  Snake, tortoise, turkeys and chicks, two deer.
People Seen:  Three AT Thru-Hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am after a bad night, broke out in sweat and bitten by insects.  Left at 7:25am after wishing and singing Happy Birthday to Ole.  The Trail was very nice, passing through an old conifer forest in some parts with little undergrowth.  It was a warm sunny day, but more pleasant down in the dark forest which was still wet from the previous night’s rain. The Trail also followed the edge of an attractive reservoir and a lovely stream before reaching Brown Mountain Creek Lean-To where I had my morning break, part of it with Stu and Pete.  There followed a long (4½ mile) climb to the top of Bald Knob, from which you couldn’t see anything.  Very sweaty.  Later on, however, the Trail crossed some open fields on the crest of the ridge and there were some good views in all directions.  I had a late lunch in a sunny spot by the Trail before covering the last 7½ miles to Seeley-Woodworth Memorial Shelter through medium forest.  My blisters were bothering me again.  At the Shelter I met OldRidgerunner, Peter, Ruben (Czech-born Australian) and Weka, who moved on another few miles.  Stu arrived later.  Another pleasant evening chatting.

Appalachian Trail - Day 040

Day:  040
Date:  Wednesday, 11 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  26.0
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (to Shelter)
Total AT Miles:  765.9
Total All Miles:  791.5
Weather:  Hot, humid, mostly sunny, thunderstorms later.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding.
Aches:  Blisters on outside of both heels.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, chipmunks, deer, tortoise.
People Seen:  Six AT Thru-Hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:00am and was visited by a deer while having breakfast.  Got away at 7:20am with a long day in prospect.  The day started ominously when, in the first few miles, it passed through deep nettles and over jagged rocks.  Progress was slow and the blisters, which had developed on the outside of my heels over the last couple of days, were sore despite having been pricked last night.  Fortunately, the condition of the Trail improved and speed picked up.  After two hours, I stopped and bandaged both blisters but the pain worsened as I continued the long descent through the James River Wilderness on a nicely graded trail.  The Trail crossed the James River just below a dam and power station and I walked for another 1½ miles on what had become a very hot sunny and humid day before stopping for lunch on top of a big rock by a stream.  My feet were very sore and the pain was depressing me to the point where all I could think of was a day off and finishing the Trail.  After lunch I removed one set of insoles from the shoes, leaving the Sorbothane, and the bandages.  I found that by walking pigeon-toed the pain was less and it gradually diminished through the afternoon.  Morover, the shoes fitted better and didn’t “eat” my socks as much but I could feel the front of my feet absorbing more punishment.  Lunch was followed by two long climbs up to Little Rocky Row and Big Rocky Row which both provided excellent views over the James River valley.  However, the heat and humidity made both ascents extremely sweaty affairs.  Because my feet were less ainful and because I was making good time today, my mood improved as the Trail maintained an easy grade along the crest and side of a ridge through forest.  Not as many flowers, though.  At about 5:30pm, Stu caught me and we then caught AT Thru-Hikers, Alice and Ole, and Barb.  They were also headed for Punchbowl Shelter and told us three other hikers were already there.  We pressed on for the last 3 miles but, with 1½ miles to go, were hit by a heavy thunderstorm and got soaked.  At the Shelter we met AT Thru-Hikers, Florida Boy (Pete), EZ Doesit and OD Doe plus a dog.  Had a good chat with Pete.  The three we had met earlier chose to sleep in their tent (the rain stopped) so the Shelter wasn’t too crowded.  Wet wood so a cold dinner.

Appalachian Trail - Day 039

Day:  039
Date:  Tuesday, 10 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  21.5
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (to Shelter)
Total AT Miles:  739.9
Total All Miles:  765.3
Weather:  Mild, overcast, a little rain.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Noodles and chicken, instant pudding.
Aches:  Blisters on both heels.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, chipmunks, three deer.
People Seen:  Stu and The Greenhorns.

Journal:
Got up at 6:00am and messed around a bit before leaving at 7:50am.  The Trail was mostly through forest and fairly easy walking.  It was nice to have it a bit cooler.  The Greenhorns had arrived at the shelter just before I left and Mike indicated they wanted to get to Rockfish Gap the same time as me and said they would try to stick to my schedule though I don’t think that Frank was so keen.  I was happy at the prospect of a 20 mile day and hoped to finish early for a change.  The miles seemed shorter, which was nice.  After a steady descent, the majority of the day was spent ascending Floyd Mt and then up to the Blue Ridge Parkway.  The last part of the day was through a lot of nettles and later through very rocky and difficult terrain.  It drizzled a little in the late afternoon.  I reached the Thunder Hill Lean-To at 5:15pm and spent a pleasant leisurely evening eating, writing and listening to the radio, as well reading the Philosopher’s Guide to see where my next motel stop might be.

Appalachian Trail - Day 038

Day:  038
Date:  Monday, 9 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  19.6
Daily Other Miles:  1.4 (0.2 from motel, 1.0 to Post Office, 0.2 to Shelter)
Total AT Miles:  718.4
Total All Miles:  743.6
Weather:  Very warm, humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Two croissants, chocolate milk.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Noodles and chicken, pop tarts.
Aches:  Feet still sore.
Animals Seen:  Two grouse, two black snakes, rabbit.
People Seen:  Eight AT Thru-Hikers (two by stages), one day hiker, many others.

Journal:
Got up at about 7:30am after not a particularly good night’s sleep – too much food and air-conditioning.  Stu left to get his mail in Cloverdale and, after an unsuccessful attempt to ring Barb, I left at about 8:40am.  It was a bit of a wrench to leave all that comfort behind.  I could easily have stayed another day and was glad I had only scheduled 20 miles for today.  I rejoined the Trail, which had recently been relocated, and in about 45 minutes, after a not particularly pleasant walk through waste grassland and beside the freeway, reached a road.  I left the AT and walked down the road about a mile (supposed to be a ½ mile) to Troutville and went to the Post Office where I collected my mail – but no shoes.  I found a phone and rang Barb at about 10:00am and had a nice chat.  The comforts of home are becoming more attractive.  I went into the grocery, bought some stuff for breakfast and ate that while I read my letters (Barb (2), Marj, Peter, Jean, Bill).  Time was passing but I decided to take my time.  I returned to the Post Office mailed some stuff to Barb, Marj, and myself at Linden and left at about 11:30am.  I was fortunate to hitch a ride back to the AT and began walking.  After crossing a bit of farmland, it followed a country road for a few miles which was quite pleasant in the warm sun.  It then entered the forest again and climbed steadily to Fullhardts Knob on a reasonable Trail.  I stopped by the Trail for lunch and read the Kew Camberwell Athletic Club newsletter and Barb’s again.  After lunch I continued on the pleasant Trail and met Mike of The Greenhorns running back along the Trail to retrieve a neck charm he’d left at a stream.Shortly after I reached Wilson Creek Shelter where I met AT Thru-Hikers, Darryl and Melinda, and Frank of The Greenhorns.  I stopped for a break and a chat.During the break a day hiker came down the AT from the north, said hello, and retraced his steps.  I left 10 minutes later and soon caught him up the hill but he had no intention of letting me through so I slowed my pace and chatted to him.  He stopped for a drink and I passed and the AT soon reached the Blue Ridge Parkway which it paralleled for the remainder of my day to Bobblets Gap Lean-To.  There would good views at various points down both sides of the Blue Ridge.  I reached the Shelter at 7:10pm and found Stu and Gus (a southbound AT hiker, by stages) who was a real nice guy.  We had a good evening in the Shelter, which had been adopted by a local, Running Richard, who kept everything in excellent shape for AT hikers.  A bear had been seen in the vicinity the previous day and there were a few jokes about the food bags hung over my bedding, but it was an uneventful night.

Appalachian Trail - Day 037

Day:  037
Date:  Sunday, 8 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  12.9
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (to motel)
Total AT Miles:  698.8
Total All Miles:  722.6
Weather:  Hot, humid, partly cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Two hamburgers, fries, shake.
  Dinner:  Catfish, salad bar, ice-cream.
Aches:  Feet sore.
Animals Seen:  Two tortoises, rabbit, squirrel, chipmunk.
People Seen:  Two AT Thru-hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:00am after a sleepless night and was away by 7:20am after arranging to meet Stu at the road in Cloverdale at 12:30pm so we could get a motel room to share.  After a rough descent the Trail crossed some farmland before climbing through some rough very weedy unattractive countryside up to Scorched Earth Gap.  It was warm and muggy again and I was sweating a lot.  From there the Trail improved and became a pleasant undulating walk through conifer and deciduous forest on a partly rocky trail along the edge of an escarpment which gave good views into the valley below.  Further along there were views in the other direction over a reservoir.  At about 11:45am I began the steady descent towards Cloverdale with my feet hurting a lot and looking forward to their half day off.  I met Stu at 12:45pm and we walked down to the Country Pride Motel and truckstop by the freeway and just had time to get some hamburgers, fries and shakes before the NBA final began on TV (which also had cable). It was heaven sitting there with our feet up, eating and watching the game which our team (both of us supported the Boston Celtics) won to clinch the Championship.  The motel had a laundry so we did our washing and some TV watching and diary writing before going to the great value All-You-Can-Eat salad restaurant across the road where we ate big.  After that we shopped and returned to the motel.  I called the Binnings and gave them a shopping list and Marj before returning to pack my groceries and write a late letter to Barb.  I got to bed at 1:30am, feeling still very full.