In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.

Appalachian Trail - Day 057

Day:  057
Date:  Saturday, 28 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  10.1
Daily Other Miles:  0.4 (around town)
Total AT Miles:  1111.3
Total All Miles:  1146.7
Weather:  Hot, humid, rain in the morning.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Mars bar, two health bars.
  Lunch:  Sub, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Pizza, ice-cream.
Aches:  None.
Animals Seen:  Deer.
People Seen:  Trail workers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a not particularly good night’s sleep – too hot.  It was raining a bit when I got up, but the tree was good protection and nothing was really wet.  I started walking at 6:25am after a breakfast of a Mars Bar.  Surprisingly, I wasn’t as thirsty as I expected.  I decided to head for Thelma Marks Shelter, 5½ miles away, and, if hungry, have breakfast there.  It began raining quite heavily as the Trail crossed some pleasant open fields and country roads before entering the forest and climbing up steadily to another very rocky ridge – the notorious Pennsylvania rocks.  I reached the Thelma Marks Shelter turn-off at 8:30am but, seeing it was ¼ mile away, decided against going down.  Had a couple of health bars instead and a 15 minute break.  The next four miles into Duncannon involved more of the rocky ridge before a rocky descent which, at one point, gave an excellent view over Duncannon and the Susquehanna River.  It looked a bit like Hannibal on the Missouri.  On the last part of the descent I met a crew clearing vegetation from the Trail – much appreciated.  I reached Duncannon at 10am and, after visiting the Post Office, checked into the old but quaint Doyles Hotel ($7.40 per night!).  After a bath, I did my shopping and laundry and mailed cards to Delaware Water Gap Post Office and Clio before picking up a big “sub” for a late lunch.  During the day, Gordon, Paul and Tommy turned up and checked in, as well as Paul’s girlfriend, Kathy, from Washington DC.  I spent the afternoon watching baseball on TV and writing letters and diary.  At 8pm, the five of us went to a nearby pizza joint where we shared two huge pizzas.  Afterwards, I got an ice-cream and returned to the hotel lounge to watch another baseball game.  At 11pm I returned to my room and finished packing my food and then my pack.  It took longer than I expected (as always) and it was nearly 1am before I got to bed.  Slept quite well though.

Appalachian Trail - Day 056

Day:  056
Date:  Friday, 27 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  28.1
Daily Other Miles:  1.0 (0.2 shelter, 0.8 spring)
Total AT Miles:  1101.2
Total All Miles:  1136.2
Weather:  Hot, humid, mostly sunny, a little rain in the late afternoon.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Soup, salad, dessert (All You Can Eat)
  Dinner:  None.
Aches:  Sore feet.
Animals Seen:  Deer, 2 snakes, squirrels, tortoise.
People Seen:  1 AT Hiker (by sections), 1 overnight hiker, 1 day hiker, many others.

Journal:
I got up at 6am and left at 7:20am for what promised to be a long day including the famous Cumberland Valley 10+ mile road walk which I was looking forward to.  I said good-bye to Kent and Sandy, and Paul.  The Trail was easy going at first and I made good progress.  However, later there were some relocations which took the Trail up on some very rocky ridges and the going became very slow.  It also got very hot.  I was walking 5 mile stretches between breaks because I wanted to reach a Carlisle Truck Stop for a late lunch.  After about 12 miles the Trail descended to the road and I began the road walk.  There was a fierce sun and I was a bit worried about it blazing down on the back of my neck.  However, as the day wore on, the haze got thicker, eventually turning into cloud, and the sun ceased to be a problem.  After I’d walked about 4 miles through the pleasing rural countryside, I reached the small village of Churchtown and found Paul sitting under a tree.  He had taken some short-cuts again – a little tedious.  He then proceeded to follow me along the road about 100 yards behind.  There was supposed to be a lady living along the road who gave ice-creams to AT hikers but, when we found her house, she wasn’t home.  I pressed on along the road walking the 4 miles to the truckstop in an hour – amazing how much quicker the pace is along the road.  Paul fell behind, but not until after we caught two other hikers, Gordon and Tommy, the former completing the AT after starting last year and the latter out for two weeks.  I was first at the truckstop but was later joined by the other three and we all ate big on the All You Can Eat soup, salad and dessert.  It was good.  Paul and I left there at 4:45pm for the 7 miles to Darlington Shelter.  The first 3 or 4 miles were mainly on roads but then the Trail climbed steadily and very rockily to a ridge.  It began raining lightly.  I reached the Shelter at 7:15pm and set out on the long overgrown walk (about ¼ mile) down to the spring.  It had stopped flowing and the water looked bad.  I cursed not having filled my water bottles at the truckstop.  I drank my two cans of Coke before setting off further down the Trail (1.7 miles) to a supposed spring and campsite.  I met Paul coming into the Shelter.  He decided to stay there.  I reached the campsite at 8:30pm but couldn’t get to the water because of poison ivy so just put up my tent (40% chance of rain) and went to bed hot (it was still 80°F), a bit thirsty, but not particularly hungry.  It took me a long time to get to sleep.

Appalachian Trail - Day 055

Day:  055
Date:  Thursday, 26 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.2
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (shelter)
Total AT Miles:  1073.1
Total All Miles:  1107.1
Weather:  Warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Two meat rolls, ½ gallon ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, corn chips, pop tarts.
Aches:  Bruised left heel.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, turkeys, snake.
People Seen:  2 AT Thru-hikers, 6 overnight hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am and left at 7:20am to reach Pine Grove Furnace State Park for lunch, 17 miles away.  As was the case yesterday, it looked like a good day for hiking – a little warmer perhaps – and the terrain was easy – undulating hills and mostly even trail though there were a few rocky bits.  I seem to have bruised my left heel a bit, though it wasn’t too bad – hope it doesn’t get worse.  I made good time through the wooded country and reached Toms Run Shelters at 13½ miles soon after noon. There I met two groups totalling six overnight hikers and Paul from three nights ago – the % of AT hitch-hikers increases!  He was looking for a friend who I hadn’t seen.  I talked for a while before setting off for the 3½ miles to Pine Grove Furnace State Park.  I arrived there at 1:30pm and found the General Store close to the historic youth hostel.  I went into the old store and was persuaded by the pretty and flirtatious manageress, Renee, to buy lunch there instead of the snack bar ¼ of a mile away.  I bought two “torpedoes” – large meat rolls – then she told me about the half gallon club.  AT hikers try to eat a ½ gallon of ice-cream as quickly as possible.  I promised to return, bought a few groceries, and she gave me yesterday’s newspaper.  I adjourned to the large verandah and ate lunch reading the paper at a table – very pleasant.  Two AT Thru-hikers, Sandy and Kent, were there too.  I got my half-gallon of ice-cream and ate it without any trouble.  Renee then made me climb the wall to stick my certificate in place.  I left soon after 3pm for the seven mile hike up to Tagg Run Shelters.  There were a few rocky bits and the country is drier.  I reached the Shelters at 5:45pm and crossed the HALF-WAY MARK just before turning off to them. Paul turned up an hour later, and Sandy and Kent a little after that.  Plenty of time to relax after a lot of miles but a comfortable day.

Appalachian Trail - Day 054

Day:  054
Date:  Wednesday, 25 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.2
Daily Other Miles:  0.3
Total AT Miles:  1049.0
Total All Miles:  1082.7
Weather:  Mild, sunny – perfect.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, two health bars.
  Dinner:  Noodles and chicken, instant pudding, chips, Pepsi.
Aches:  Tired feet.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, rabbits.
People Seen:  6 overnight hikers, 4 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am after a good night’s sleep and left at 7:20am, bidding farewell to my colleagues.  It was cool and looked to be set for a nice day for hiking.  The first 5 miles incorporated a lot of clambering over rocks and progress was slow.  During my first break I was caught by KC and one of the CC.  Both were headed for the Raccoon Run Shelters at 20 miles whilst I was aiming for Quarry Gap at 24 miles.  It showed again that my hiking speed wasn’t faster than the others it was just that I could comfortably go on longer.  I reached the Mason-Dixon Line (Pennsylvania border) at the same time and got KC (a nice guy – they all were) to take my picture.  The first few miles in Pennsylvania were a composite of many old trails and was difficult to follow and badly marked.  I had to stop three times to get the guidebook out – can’t remember the last time I had to refer to one.  After those first few miles, it settled down and passed through pretty woodlands with no tough grades though occasional rocky sections.  On the whole it was pleasant hiking.  I saw KC twice more.  At a break, two scouts (~13 years old) came the other way and couldn’t understand a word I said.  I decided to try and get to Caledonia State Park before 5pm so that I could visit the snack bar reported to be there.  This required a few longer sections and a 30 minute lunch.  En route, I passed Raccoon Run Shelters and found KC and CC (one of) in residence.  They had walked the roads!  My guess is that 70% of AT Thru-hikers take short-cuts and walk roads fairly frequently (with 5% hitching bits).  Each to his own.  I got to the State Park at 4:45pm.  It’s strange going into these Parks where people are picnicking and playing (and camping, etc.) as Barb and I had been doing three months ago.  You feel like a visitor from outer space.  I had a salad roll, two ice-creams and two Pepsis and some chips to accompany dinner.  It was very pleasant sitting in the sun eating these with only 2½ miles to go to the Shelter.  I even saw a jogger when entering the Park.  I left the picnic area at 5:30pm and, after a short sharp climb and an easy walk (with a stop to collect water ¼ mile before the Shelter), I reached it at 6:20pm.  I’m getting efficient at setting up, washing and cooking and, by 7:35pm, I had eaten main course.  There were no other occupants, it was a nice spot, a nice evening, and a picnic table – perfect end to a good day.

Appalachian Trail - Day 053

Day:  053
Date:  Tuesday, 24 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.9
Daily Other Miles:  0.6 (shelters)
Total AT Miles:  1024.8
Total All Miles:  1058.2
Weather:  Warm, humid, rain in the morning, mostly cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter.
  Dinner:  Noodles, pop tarts.
Aches:  Sore behind right knee.
Animals Seen:  Chipmunks, squirrels, rabbits.
People Seen:  6 AT Thru-hikers, 20 overnight hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am to steady rain and packed up slowly.  Chainsaw, who had joined us during the night’s thunderstorm, left in the rain at 7am.  I left at 7:30am just as it stopped.  The Trail followed a broad ridge which didn’t offer views but was basically easy going, though wet weeds and brambles and some rocky bits made life unpleasant.  Paul caught and passed me though I passed him again later.  The Trail passed by the Dahlgren Campground for hikers only (free hot showers), but I didn’t stop.  I met Melissa there, who was hiking most of the AT.  She was with T-Turf when I met them later (they took a short-cut) at the Washington Monument (1827’) which gave good views over the countryside.  Chainsaw was also there.  I walked steadily for the remainder of the day, stopping for a 2:30pm lunch.  The Trail continued to follow a ridge – dropping down to cross roads in passes every so often.  My feet weren’t so bad today.  I reached Devils Racecourse Shelter at 6:25pm and found 4 AT Thru-hikers already in residence – the Connecticut Connection (3 guys) and Kid Charlemagne.  They squeezed up to make room for me.  I got a fire going despite damp wood, had dinner, caught up the diary, and got into bed by about 9pm.  The boys told me about the “flasher” they had met on the Trail before Harpers Ferry and how the guy had been arrested.  I’d heard about it in Harpers ferry too.

Appalachian Trail - Day 052

Day:  052
Date:  Monday, 23 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  17.4
Daily Other Miles:  2.5 (0.2 to ATCHQ, 2.0 to store, 0.3 to shelter)
Total AT Miles:  999.9
Total All Miles:  1032.7
Weather:  Hot humid, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Egg and bacon pie, muffins, burger, ice-cream.
  Lunch:  Hot dog, beans, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Muesli, muffins.
Aches:  Sore toes on both feet.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, turtles.
People Seen:  4 AT Thru-hikers, 1 day hiker, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am after a reasonable sleep on a hot night.  I packed up and was underway by 7:15am.  It was already warm and humid and the day was forecast to be hot.  It took me until 9:20am to reach Harpers Ferry and the Appalachian Trail Conference Headquarters after crossing the Shenandoah River.  Goodbye Virginia.  They let me use the office phone to ring Barb, which I did.  Not a great call because neither of us had much news and the line wasn’t great (I couldn’t shout because of the office staff).  While in the office, I met Chainsaw (so-named because of his snoring), also northbound, and Jean Cassin (ATC information lady who remembered me from my previous visit) and a Harpers Ferry visitor who talked with me for a long time, and a local newspaper reporter who also talked to me for a while.  I then walked a mile to a cluster of three small groceries where I got my supplies and had a snack.  I wrote cards to Cederholms and Birches and posted them at the Post Office on my way back.  Met George and Karin there, who had had a good night with the alcoholic tramp.  Jean had gone out so I decided to get some lunch at a nearby cafĂ©.  I returned at 1pm, hung around for a while and met Paul, another northbound Thru-hiker, who’d been off for a week in Washington DC.  I had my photo taken for the AT album (Australian flag prominent), said goodbye to Jean and the other staff, and set off about 1:50pm, about 3 hours later than intended.  It was very hot.  The Trail descended through historic Harpers Ferry and crossed the Potomac on a railway bridge to Maryland.  Goodbye West Virgina.  The trail then followed the Ohio & Chesapeake Canal and the Potomac River for quite some time.  It was flat, and cooler in the shade.  I had hoped to do another 18 miles but my toes hurt for some reason and, after climbing up onto a ridge in Maryland, I decided 12 miles would be enough – it was getting late.  I caught Chainsaw and we bot decided to head for Crampton Gap Shelter. He stopped in Gothland State Park to cook dinner and I went on to the Shelter which was unoccupied.  However, during the next two hours, George and Karin and their son (joining them for a week) turned up with George determined to utilise all space in the small Shelter so the snoring Chainsaw would have to sleep elsewhere.  Next, however, Paul turned up so they found room for him.  Then it really was full.  Chainsaw turned up at 8:30pm and good-naturedly agreed to sleep outside, even though he didn’t have a tent.  At about 3am, there was a huge thunderstorm and torrential rain.  Chainsaw didn’t get much sleep.  I felt sorry for the gregarious eccentric old guy.

Appalachian Trail - Day 051

Day:  051
Date:  Sunday, 22 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.8
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (shelter)
Total AT Miles:  982.4
Total All Miles:  1012.8
Weather:  Hot, humid, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Egg and bacon pie, fruit salad, muffins.
Aches:  Right little toe and sole of right foot sore.
Animals Seen:  Tortoises, snake, deer, squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen:  2 AT Thru-hikers (GEOKA), 6 overnight hikers, 2 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:45am and was on the Trail by 7am.  I had said I would meet the Binnings 24½ miles up the Trail by 5pm but, as Uncle Al had warned me, the early going was hard.  New Trail with lots of rocks, turns, abrupt rises and descents, and bramble overgrowth that scratched up my legs.  Just before lunch I caught George and Karin again – they had passed while I was I was in Front Royal.  We talked for a while and I managed to point out to them that Harpers Ferry was further away than they anticipated.  I left them and hiked another 3 miles to a sand spring and had lunch.  They caught me again and I wasted another half hour talking.  Despite rumours to the contrary, the going was still hard for the next 4 miles and it became evident that I was going to be late for my appointment even though I was taking fewer breaks.  Some sore spots on my right foot (little toe and sole) also were slowing me down.  I reached my destination, Keyes Gap Shelter, at 5:45pm to find an old alcoholic tramp in residence and the Binnings gone (but expected to return).  I tended my feet and 20 minutes later they appeared.  I decided to go down to their car for our picnic, which we did, and spent a pleasant few hours chatting.  I decided that, rather than stay with the tramp, I would hike another mile or so and sleep in my tent. This I did, and stopped at 8:15pm, washed, got into bed at 9pm, and updated my diary until 9:30pm before going to sleep.