In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.
Appalachian Trail - Day 064
Date: Saturday, 5 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 6.5
Daily Other Miles: 2.0 (around town)
Total AT Miles: 1258.1
Total All Miles: 1296.5
Weather: Hot, humid, hazy.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, eggs, sausages.
Lunch: Turkey sandwich, ice-cream.
Dinner: Chicken, vegetables, ice-cream.
Aches: Pain next to big toe on right foot.
Animals Seen: Squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen: 5 overnight hikers, 2 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
I got up at 5:30am and left at about 6:50am for the 6½ miles into Delaware Water Gap. I passed a few other campers in the first few miles and then began descending into the Delaware Water Gap with good views over the Delaware River and its gorge en route. It was already warm and obviously going to be a hot day. The Trail improved as it became one used by day hikers to get to the look-outs. Just before Delaware Water Gap it passed a beautiful lily pond. Delaware Water Gap turned out to be a pretty, historic, art and craft town nestled amongst the hills. I found the Presbyterian Church and its Hostel underneath straight away and checked it out. Very good – shower, lounge, dormitory, radio, fridge, clean towels and nobody in residence. I went down to the Post Office and collected my mail and met Hilda, the elderly volunteer caretaker for the Hostel. She soon turned up at the Hostel with a key for me to use. I went to a cafĂ© and had a second breakfast while reading my mail, including a letter from Syntec (my former employer) offering me an attractive three-year contract for when I returned to Australia, two letters from Barb and one from Pam. After breakfast, I bought groceries and returned to the Hostel. I decided against the 40 minute bus trip to Stroudsburg and did my laundry by hand. Back at the cool Hostel, I wrote a letter to Barb, did the laundry, and then went to a nearby pub for lunch at 2pm. There was baseball on the TV, but the place was noisy and smoky so I returned to the Hostel after lunch and launched into writing a stack of postcards after ringing my cousin, Gordon, and informing him of my impending arrival in his neighbourhood. During the evening an AT Thru-hiker and his girlfriend turned up – they had hitched back after a week hiking north together. We chatted a while. At 10:30pm I rang Marj, then retired at 11pm. A pleasant relaxing day. Tried to ring Barb without luck a couple of times.
Appalachian Trail - Day 063
Date: Friday, 4 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 23.2
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1251.6
Total All Miles: 1288.0
Weather: Warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: Feet very sore, right shoulder very sore.
Animals Seen: Chipmunks, squirrels, deer.
People Seen: 5 overnight hikers, 6 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a good night’s sleep and decided to attempt the 30+ miles to Delaware Water Gap. I left at 6:50am on a very pleasant morning and headed north along the Trail through pretty woods. As usual, I collected all the cobwebs en route. The Trail, although flat, was very rocky and although I could maintain my three miles an hour, it required a lot of concentration, high knee lift, and stamina. I plodded on with Wind Gap as my half-way mark and aiming for five-mile sessions. If it wasn’t for the rocks, it would be really pleasant walking. I just kept hoping I’d strike some more even stretches but, unlike the other days, it was continuous and wearing. I pressed on and reached Wind Gap, tired but on schedule at 12:30pm. I couldn’t see the motel supposedly there, but wandered down the road past some houses and found a guy in his garden nailing up US flags (INDEPENDENCE DAY!) who showed me a tap to get water. Water was again very scarce. The stretch after Wind Gap was a killer. It was a relocation, a few years old, and was just non-stop rocks. I began to get very weary, my pace was slowed and, after two hours to cover five miles, decided that after a 50 minute break for lunch I would seriously consider stopping at Kirkridge Shelter and walk the last six miles into Delaware Water Gap first thing in the morning. Getting to Delaware Water Gap around 8pm tonight wouldn’t save much time and would leave me with very sore feet. After passing Wolf Rocks (views OK), the Trail became a little better but. When I reached the Shelter turn-off at 5:30pm, I decided it would be nice to stop. I walked up to the Shelter, which was in mild disrepair (no rain forecast) and had a relaxed evening. There was a great view from the Shelter’s front and I had hopes of seeing some fireworks as it got dark. There were lots of fireworks and I stayed up until 10:30pm watching them from in my sleeping bag, drinking hot chocolate and listening to patriotic music on the Sony Walkman. A very memorable evening.
Appalachian Trail - Day 062
Date: Thursday, 3 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 25.4
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1228.4
Total All Miles: 1264.8
Weather: Mild, windy, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Noodles and vegetables, instant pudding.
Aches: Feet sore, particularly 4th left toe.
Animals Seen: Deer, squirrels, chipmunks, snake.
People Seen: 9 overnight hikers, 7 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 6am and managed to get away by 7:15am. Chuck gave me his address near Boston and suggested I look him up. I set off toward Blue Mountain summit, 4 miles away, hoping I would be able to get some water there. I only had half a bottle and, because of the dry winter, the majority of the springs close to the Trail were dry. There was a restaurant at Blue Mountain, but it was closed until 11am and it was 8:30am when I arrived. There was no outside water tap, but I found a Pepsi vending machine and scraped together enough change to buy two cans. This is America – no water, but Pepsi. The going had been relatively good and I was making good time as I pressed on northward. The AT continued to follow a low wooded ridge. Soon it became very rocky and slow again (at least the rocks weren’t wet) and followed a rocky ridge known as The Knife Edge. It would have been good fun without a pack on! I continued to make surprisingly good time which I attributed to the much lighter pack. There continued to be clear views from a number of rocky knobs and outcrops in both directions. I reached Overbridge Shelter at 2:30pm for a late lunch. There was a dead (shot) copperhead snake in the fireplace. The Trail then descended to Lehigh Gap and crossed the Lehigh River on a road bridge – there was lots of traffic around; people knocking off early for a long weekend. The mountains around the Gap had been denuded by pollution from the nearby zinc smelting operation. The ascent up the other side was steep and involved clambering over barren rocks. Good views. At the ridge top the vegetation was still sparse. I decided to walk until 6:30pm even though I would have passed the day’s target (a spring). If the going was good tomorrow, I might make it to Delaware Water Gap. At 6:30pm I found a nice little campsite by the Trail and had a pleasant evening before retiring at 9pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 061
Date: Wednesday, 2 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 24.4
Daily Other Miles: 0.1 (hotel)
Total AT Miles: 1203.0
Total All Miles: 1239.4
Weather: Mostly cloudy, rain in the morning.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter.
Dinner: Noodles and vegetables, pop tarts.
Aches: Feet sore, right shoulder aching, lower back chafed.
Animals Seen: 2 BEARS, ground hog, grouse, small snake.
People Seen: 2 overnight hikers, some others.
Journal:
Got up at 6:20am and ate breakfast in my room before leaving at 7:10am. It was a good night’s sleep and my feet didn’t cause me to wake at all, though they still feel battered. It had begun raining during the night and was still raining steadily as I left. The Trail followed the Schuylkill River for a short distance before climbing away from the picturesque Port Clinton. The Trail reached the ridge and followed the crest. Again, there were patches of bad rocks which slowed progress and were more treacherous when wet. The Trail passed close to some good viewpoints – Pulpit Rock, The Pinnacle – and I got some great views over the Pennsylvanian countryside. The Trail descended into a valley where it passed through conifer forest which was very pleasant. My feet, while sore, weren’t as bad as on the other days. I had lunch in a nice spot and then ascended back up to the ridge. Again, there were a lot of rocky sections which slowed progress and were very tiresome. I stopped for my last break of the afternoon at 5:30pm near Dans Spring and while sitting down looking at the map I heard a twig snap. I loked up to find a full-grown black bear less than 15 yards away sniffing the air – it hadn’t seen me. Five yards away was a companion of similar size. They moved off slowly into the bush foraging and I got out my camera as quietly as possible and set off in stealthy pursuit. After about 200 yards I got a couple of pictures and they still hadn’t seen me. If they had seen me and were aggressive, there was nowhere I could have gone. All very exciting. I continued on for the rocky last three miles to the Allentown Shelter arriving at 6:50pm. Chuck, a five-day hiker, was in residence. We chatted and got along well while I successfully got a fire going with wet wood. Went to bed at 9:15pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 060
Date: Tuesday, 1 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 18.5
Daily Other Miles: 0.1 (hotel)
Total AT Miles: 1178.6
Total All Miles: 1214.9
Weather: Mild, sunny in the morning and cloudy in the afternoon.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter.
Dinner: Salad, hamburger steak, fresh vegetables, ice-cream.
Aches: Feet extremely sore, blister.
Animals Seen: Rabbits, deer, grouse.
People Seen: 1 day hiker, many others.
Journal:
Woke up at midnight with feet aching mercilessly. They were burning too, and I nearly got up to stand in the creek. Dreading tomorrow. I got up at 6am and, apart from the feet, slept reasonably well. Managed to get going by 7:35am. I was not moving well and my feet were already feeling battered as well as having sharp pain between the big and second toes on right foot. Feared infection and had to stop after two miles. Fortunately, it turned out to be a big blister. I pressed on for another four miles but was amazed how bad my feet felt so early in the day. My pack was still heavy, but more tolerable. My intended distance for the day was 25 miles, but I was moving so slow because of the extremely rocky terrain and sore feet that it seemed doubtful and foolhardy to try and make it. I decided to reduce my sessions from four to three miles and checked the AT Log Book to find that I could probably still make Delaware Water Gap before noon on Saturday if I stopped the night in Port Clinton. The Trail was basically flat along the top of a ridge through attractive woods but the path was covered with loose and projecting sharp rocks. It was slow, tedious and risky walking. I descended into Port Clinton at about 4:40pm, found the Post Office and sent another card to Clio, then went to the Port Clinton Hotel where I got a room, the only guest, from the amiable Helen. She offered to cook me dinner for an extra $3.50, so I accepted. After a shower I had a salad, hamburger steak, fresh vegetables and ice-cream dinner in the bar watching TV. No other patrons.I stayed there drinking Cokes, watching a few customers drift in, watching TV and talking to Helen until 9pm. Decided sleep was probably more important than baseball and my feet hurt when sitting in a chair or stool so retired to update my diary, pack for an early start, and maybe read a little.
Appalachian Trail - Day 059
Date: Monday, 30 June 1986
Daily AT Miles: 25.7
Daily Other Miles: 0.4 (0.2 spring, 0.2 campsite)
Total AT Miles: 1160.1
Total All Miles: 1196.3
Weather: Mild, partly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: Feet and back sore (chafing).
Animals Seen: Squirrels, rabbit, groundhog.
People Seen: AT trail crew (2), 5 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 6am and, for some reason, took a long time to get going. Left at 7:40am. However, I seemed to cover the miles quickly in the first session which passed through pleasant woods and the remains of an old mining area and the site of the Rausch Gap settlement. After that, the AT descended to meet a road and then followed various roads for two or three miles – quite populated. The weight of my pack is beginning to tell on my feet which are excessively sore and I feel tired generally. After crossing under the I-81 several times, the AT climbed back up onto another ridge. Some of the climb was rocky, as was the Trail along the crest. There were some views out across the closely farmed valley to the east. I stopped for lunch at Blue Mountain campsite, having covered a good 18½ miles in the morning (till 2:30pm). It began spitting while I lunched. I continued on after an hour’s break with full water bottles. My pace slowed and I felt very tired (sore feet). There were also some long difficult rocky stretches. It took until 7pm to reach Hertlein campsite only seven miles from lunch. Very slow and I’m a bit concerned I’m overdoing it – 25 miles again tomorrow. The campsite was quite nice and I had a quick dinner, etc., and got into my tent at 9:10pm. Rain is forecast. During the day, I remembered I hadn’t addressed the card sent to Clio. Tonight is one when I would rather be home.
Appalachian Trail - Day 058
Date: Sunday, 29 June 1986
Daily AT Miles: 23.1
Daily Other Miles: 0.4 (0.2 to AT, 0.2 store)
Total AT Miles: 1134.4
Total All Miles: 1170.2
Weather: Hot, humid, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Eggs and bacon, chocolate milk, ice-cream.
Lunch: None.
Dinner: Chicken and noodles, pop tarts.
Aches: Sore hips and feet.
Animals Seen: Deer, squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen: AT trail crew (2), 16 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 7:20am and went downstairs for a nice, but small, bacon and eggs breakfast cooked by Mr Doyle himself and eaten at the bar. At 8:20am I collected my pack and started walking. It was already very warm and humid and forecast to get hotter, my pack was very heavy (6 days food and 3 full water bottles), and there was the prospect of a tough climb up onto the ridge followed by six days rock scrambling (the dreaded Pennsylvania section). I was a bit low and on the way out of town decided to give Barb a call. We had a good chat and I followed it with a quart of chocolate milk and a pint of ice-cream. My spirits rose a little and I crossed the mighty Susquehanna River and began the steep, though not all that long, climb. As usual, it had taken me a longer time to get out of town than expected and the prospect of the planned 23 miles and a late finish did not thrill me. It took me a long time to cover the first five miles but it was cooler on the ridge and not rocky all of the time and I began to speed up. There were occasional good views over the Pennsylvania farmland and, despite my heavy load, things were OK after all. I met a few families out day hiking. I wasn’t exactly starved after a lot of eating yesterday so gave lunch a miss and reached the site of the old Yellow Springs village, my goal, at about 7:40pm. It was pleasant spot and I found a good campsite. I hastily attended to all my chores and managed to get a cooked meal, wash, etc., in while listening to BBC shows on National Public Radio. Not such a bad evening and I was pleased to have covered the scheduled distance with the heavy pack. There were deer around the campsite as well as fireflies. I got into the tent at 9:40pm and updated the diary before going to sleep at 10pm.