In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.
Appalachian Trail - Day 073
Date: Monday, 14 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 26.8
Daily Other Miles: 0.2 (spring).
Total AT Miles: 1420.0
Total All Miles: 1464.8
Weather: Warm, partly cloudy.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Tuna salad roll, donuts, ice-cream.
Dinner: Broccoli soup, stuffed cabbage, ice-cream.
Aches: 4th toe on left foot sore and right lower back.
Animals Seen: Deer, groundhogs, squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen: 2 AT Thru-hikers, 2 AT Hikers (southbound by sections), 4 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and left at 7am on a beautiful sunny morning with a big day ahead. Everything was wet from rain and it was cool in the forest though promising to warm up. The Trail was fairly easy going through the forest following ridges. After nine miles (some of which seemed a bit long), I reached Morgan Stewart Shelter and met “Timber Jack” and “Professional Radical” (Carol) together with two young couples who I think they were travelling with for two days. They were only having breakfast, having had a late rowdy night. They were very friendly and I’ll probably see them again after my planned day off at Jayne’s. I left and moved on 4½ miles to NY 55 where there was a large grocery. I didn’t need any provisions, but went in to get some lunch and came out with a big tuna salad “hero” (roll), two donuts, a pint of ice-cream, a pint of chocolate milk and a can of Coke, all of which I consumed sitting on the pavement watching the world go by – one of my favourite occupations. At 2pm, I set off for NY 22, 7½ miles away. The first 3½ were quite pleasant road-walking (as had the last 1½ miles to NY 55). Apparently the National Parks Service have purchased an old nuclear reactor site nearby (where there had been an accident) to re-route the Trail, but there was local opposition to that and the compulsory acquisition of other necessary land. After the road, the Trail again went through nice forest and across some attractive farmland before reaching NY 22 and the Quality Ridge Inn. I reached there at 4:45pm, and dinner wasn’t served until 5:30pm but, with 6 miles to go to the Shelter, I thought I could afford the time. I spent a pleasant 1½ hours sitting at the bar, drinking Coke, talking, eating and watching TV. Before leaving, I called Jayne and confirmed a 6:30pm pick-up at Cornwall Bridge tomorrow night. The six miles passed relatively easily (my feet are in much better shape) and I arrived at Wiley Shelter at 8:30pm. A southbound by sections AT Hiker was in residence and possibly asleep. I set up camp, had a wash and retired at 9pm, updating the diary by torchlight before going to sleep.
Appalachian Trail - Day 072
Date: Sunday, 13 July 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 18.8
Daily Other Miles: 0.3 (from Graymoors).
Total AT Miles: 1393.2
Total All Miles: 1437.8
Weather: Foggy, rain and drizzle, mild.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Fruit, eggs and sausages, orange juice, donuts.
Lunch: None.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Deer, squirrels, groundhogs, rabbits.
People Seen: 2 day hikers, some others.
Journal:
Got up at 7:30am and, after a pleasant breakfast with the monks and Bob and Jenny, left Graymoors at 9am. An interesting and worthwhile visit. The weather was poor, fog and drizzle, and I altered my schedule for the next three days so I could stay in Shelters. This meant an easy day today and a long one tomorrow. I decided not to try and ring Clio from the Monastery because it was probably too early for her to know if she was going sailing or not. I set off with a bit of indigestion from the enormous breakfast I had eaten. It was drizzling, but not enough to warrant donning my Goretex jacket. My feet were wet from yesterday’s socks and wet shoes and soon got wetter as I walked through sopping undergrowth. Despite the wetness it was pleasant walking in the mild weather. There were a few climbs, occasionally steep, but never that long, and no views because of the fog. The area, as for the last few days, was historic with traces of farming, mining, etc., dating from the American Revolution. There were lots of collapsed stone fences and the Trail occasionally followed old railway grades. You could feel the history of the place. The miles all seemed a little long, but I was doing it easy and, partly because of the indigestion, decided to forgo lunch (eating my perennial trail snack, “gorp” [sultanas, peanuts and M&Ms], instead), and reach my goal, Ralph’s Peak Hikers Cabin, a little earlier. There was supposed to be a bike there, and a store a mile away, and I would have a big dinner there. After climbing over Shenandoah, I descended to the well-marked cabin and arrived at 5:30pm. A note on the door said someone would open it at 6pm. I sat and started the diary and a very friendly guy from the Club turned up at 5:50pm. He told me the store was closed and there was nowhere to cook so I accepted that I was going to have a cold dinner but wasn’t too bothered. The Cabin was well-furnished and promised to be cosy. Soon after 6pm, thunder sounded and it began to rain heavily. I was glad I hadn’t stopped for lunch. I had a cold dinner and wrote the diary by candlelight.
Appalachian Trail - Day 071
Date: Saturday, 12 July 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 13.7
Daily Other Miles: 1.8 (1.5 to café, 0.3 to Monastery)
Total AT Miles: 1374.4
Total All Miles: 1418.7
Weather: Mild, overcast, raining mostly.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli.
Lunch: 2 cheeseburgers, fries.
Dinner: Hamburgers, salad, fruit.
Aches: Right knee sore.
Animals Seen: Deer (including fawns), squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen: 2 AT Thru-hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 6am after some showers during the night and almost immediately it began to rain steadily. I ate breakfast and packed up in the rain keeping things as dry as I could. A few things got damp but nothing too bad. It was the first tent pack up in the rain, so I suppose I have been lucky. I set off along the muddy path (in some cases “river”) and steadily walked the six miles to Bear Mountain Inn passing over West Mountain and Bear Mountain en route. No views because of the weather. I arrived at the Inn at 10:10am to find the café, where I had planned to spend a few hours, closed. I found a covered area in front of the toilets and spent 1½ hours writing my reply to Syntec’s job offer standing up at a wall and getting colder and colder. Shivering, by the end. I then walked, in the rain, up to the Post Office which was closed, then back to the now-open café where I had some lunch. It was a big place, filled mostly with blacks whose picnics had been spoiled by the rain. They were noisy and happy. After lunch, I went to the Inn lobby and left the Syntec letter with them. I also called Clio, but she couldn’t give me a time when she could meet up, but wanted me to call back tomorrow. She said she could perhaps make it Monday night. I’ll probably ring her, though I’ve a few long days ahead of me. I left the Inn at 1:10pm and walked through the picnic area and zoo (foxes, bears, raccoons) en route to the Bear Mountain Bridge which I used to cross the big Hudson River. We had driven across it with Rod and Tracey just three months ago – seemed ages. The rain had more or less stopped as I climbed up to the ridges on the north-east side – a landmark passed. The Trail was reasonable, the weather cool, and I was in good spirits walking along, singing with my Walkman, and a short afternoon in prospect. I arrived at Graymoors Franciscan Monastery at 4:30pm and was met by the kindly Father Bosco who arranged a room for me. I had a shower and went down to dinner at 5:30pm where I met Bob and Jennifer, also AT Thru-hikers, who’d spent the day there because of rain. Jennifer was walking around the Monastery in short shorts which I’m sure would have been a little distracting to the monks. They told me about their encounter with the psycho “Fighter Pilot” on the Trail who had threatened to kill them and had harassed them for a few days in New Jersey. Glad I missed him. After an ample dinner, I went to my room and wrote a letter before going down to a small lounge to watch TV. At 9pm I found a Michael Douglas movie called “Running” which was interesting but far-fetched.
Appalachian Trail - Day 070
Date: Friday, 11 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 13.9
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1361.5
Total All Miles: 1403.2
Weather: Warm, humid, mostly cloudy.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Cereal, eggs, toast.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: Feet a bit sore, right knee sore.
Animals Seen: Many deer, 2 fawns, squirrels, chipmunks, small snake, grouse.
People Seen: 18 overnight hikers, 1 day hiker, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 8am and, after a shower and Pam-cooked breakfast, said good-bye to Pam and Aidan and left with Gordon at 9:20am. It was sad to be leaving so soon. Another day off would have been nice and I think nthey would have liked me to stay. Anyway, it’s good to know they’ll be moving to Melbourne to live next March. Gordon drove me to the spot near Arden at the entrance to Harriman State Park where I left the AT on Wednesday night. I started walking at 10:15am on a much more pleasant (cooler) day than recently. That, plus my feet feeling improved and a day’s rest, had me in good spirits as I negotiated the gentle grades and occasional rocky bluffs of the Park. There was little undergrowth and spring-like growth on the trees as well as evidence of gypsy moth. It was pleasant forest. I only planned to do 12 miles so that tomorrow night I would arrive at GraymoorMonastery. I stopped for lunch at 1pm then pressed on to the William Brian Shelter, where I planned to spend the night, arriving at 4:30pm. Unfortunately, the water well was dry and I had little, , so ended up pressing on another few miles and stopping by a pleasant stream in a lovely spot at about 6:10pm. En route, the Trail passed over Black Mountain and I got superb views of the Hudson River which I will cross tomorrow – a landmark. I had time for a leisurely dinner though time was spent boiling suspect water for tomorrow’s breakfast. I went to bed soon after 9pm after a relaxing day.
Appalachian Trail - Day 069
Date: Thursday, 10 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 0
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1347.6
Total All Miles: 1389.3
Weather: Warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Cereal, muffins.
Lunch: Salad rolls, muffins.
Dinner: Roast lamb, vegetables, ice-cream, jelly.
Aches: Feet stiff and sore.
Animals Seen: 0
People Seen: Many.
Journal:
Got up at 8am and called Clio to see if she wanted to come out to the AT. No conclusion was reached so I left it that I would call again on Saturday. After breakfast, I spent the morning doing washing and cleaning, updating my diary, trip-planning and playing with the good-natured Aidan. Gordon came home for lunch and a friend, Celia, and her two children came as well. A few hours passed chatting and the afternoon went quickly too, as I drafted my reply to Syntec, watched TV and played with Aidan. After an early dinner, Bo Cocks rang from Australia to say they would be in Maine from August 19 and would like to see me (Bo, the American wife of an Australian work colleague, was the person who had first sparked my interest in the AT). We worked out some means of contact. It would be good to see them, but I might almost be finished by August 19th. Pam then took me to the supermarket and I did my shopping. On return we all watched TV and talked. I went to bed at midnight. It was a very restful day and I feel it has done my feet some good.
Appalachian Trail - Day 068
Date: Wednesday, 9 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 24.7
Daily Other Miles: 2.3 (0.6 water, 1.7 Arden)
Total AT Miles: 1347.6
Total All Miles: 1389.3
Weather: Very warm, very humid, overcast, some showers.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, Mars Bar.
Dinner: Pizza, ice-cream.
Aches: Feet sore.
Animals Seen: Deer, groundhogs, small snake, squirrels, grouse.
People Seen: 1 day hiker, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 6am after a showery night. Didn’t sleep that well. Set off, still undecided whether to ring Gordon and arrange to stay tonight and tomorrow. I walked to the side-trail to Wawayanda Visitor Center, arriving there at 8:45am and rang Gordon to see if it would be OK. He seemed pleased, so we arranged that I would call him from Arden, still 22 miles along the Trail. It was a very dull humid day and I set off along the Trail hoping that my feet, particularly the right one, would be better in the cooler weather and clean socks. The Trail was easier on the feet with fewer rocks and flatter rocks and I didn’t push it. Progress was not all that quick because there seemed to be many escarpments to climb and descend using hands and muscles. It was quite tiring, but I just kept plugging away and enjoyed the change in terrain. In some places, the Trail was along the top of long stretches of exposed rock which gave good views over the nearby lakes. It was obviously a populated area with the sounds of civilization evident and several roads to cross. I had a late lunch at about 4:10pm and then pressed on non-stop for the last 6½ miles to NY17 near Arden. More escarpments and progress was slow. I arrived at the road at 8pm to find the telephone I had been counting on vandalized. Very tired and not happy, I walked another mile to the small Post Office at Arden along the railway line to where there was supposed to be another phone. If there was, it was inside and locked. I walked to NY17 and began to hitch south at 8:30pm. It was getting dark and I realised I may as well start walking to the next town, 2½ miles away since no-one in New York was going to pick me up after dark. After a mile, I got a lift from a shift worker to Sloatsburg, about 12 miles down the road, arriving at 9:15pm. I rang Gordon and then ate a pizza sitting on the footpath watching the world go by while Gordon made the long trip out to get me. It was quite pleasant sitting there with the prospect of a day off. Gordon arrived while I was buying some ice-cream and drink and we drove back to his house at Sparkill arriving at 10:30pm. It was great to see Gordon and Pam again, and Aidan soon woke up and joined in the fun. We stayed up talking till about 1am and then I went to sleep in Aidan’s room.
Appalachian Trail - Day 067
Date: Tuesday, 8 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 20.9
Daily Other Miles: 0.8 (to store)
Total AT Miles: 1322.9
Total All Miles: 1362.3
Weather: Hot, humid, hazy, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli.
Lunch: Pizza, pint of ice-cream, quart of orange juice.
Dinner: Noodles and vegetables, instant pudding.
Aches: Feet, particularly toes, very sore.
Animals Seen: Rabbits, groundhogs.
People Seen: Many.
Journal:
Got up at 6am, hoping to do 24 miles on another hot day. Hoping feet better. Jerry said he planned to do 24 miles too! We left (the shadow and I) at 7:30am and walked steadily at first through woods then across farm and grazing land for seven miles. I then said I was going into Unionville (0.4 miles off the AT) in New York to get some supplies and have a snack. Jerry wasn’t that keen on the detour, but came anyway. After shopping, we went to the local pub and had an early lunch of pizza (shared). Very friendly barmaid. We left at 12:30pm in the heat of the day with 17 miles to go. It was going to be tough. Jerry wanted to take a short-cut, but I wouldn’t, so he didn’t either. The Trail went through woods for a while, then across fields then a hot road-walk. The feet were sore – Jerry’s too. After the road-walk, there was a solid climb over a ridge then, to our horror, a relocation which was hard going – badly prepared – and cost us a good half hour. There was then another hot road-walk with my feet killing me. I removed my inner socks but that seemed to make things worse – perhaps my wool socks needed a wash. I don’t know why the feet were so sore, particularly the toes. Could be from awkward walking because of exposed skin on old blister, could be the heat, could be dirty socks, could be the rocks. We were short on water, but got some from a house because the campsite we were aiming for was dry. We reached the end of the road-walk with six miles to go at 5:30pm. I decided to change my socks and told Jerry I was only going another three miles then camping. He said he wanted to go further, so we said friendly farewells and he was off. The last three miles involved a steep rocky climb to Mount Wawayanda then along its crest. It was slow going and took me until 7:10pm to reach my target campsite next to a suspect stream. Still, it was a nice spot and I was glad to stop. If my feet are bad tomorrow, I may try and get to Gordon’s tomorrow night and have a day off, though it will put pressure on me to reach later deadlines. We’ll see tomorrow. Went to bed at 9:10pm and spent 40 minutes catching diary up. Lots of mozzies, very warm and I’m thirsty. Had better days! That’s three toughies in a row. Record temperatures in New York.