In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.
Appalachian Trail - Day 078
Date: Saturday, 19 July 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 21.4
Daily Other Miles: 0.4 (0.2 Shelter, 0.2 spring)
Total AT Miles: 1509.3
Total All Miles: 1554.9
Weather: Very warm, very humid, hazy.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, chocolate bar.
Dinner: Fettucine, instant pudding.
Aches: Foot problems, bad chafing all over.
Animals Seen: Deer, small snake.
People Seen: 12 overnight hikers, 7 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
I woke up at 5am, when the others began stirring, and got up at 5:30am after a bad night’s sleep. I resolved to sleep in my tent on future warm nights. Chafing was also hurting a lot. I left at 7am on what I hoped would be an easy day of about 21 miles with no big hills. However, it was going to be another triple H day, which would make it unpleasant. The first four miles were slow going over, and down, Jug End to a road where I replenished my water at a spring. While resting, two joggers went past (I wish I was just out for a jog) and some pre-breakfast walkers. My mind was much pre-occupied with how much further I had to go all day. It will be nice to finish. There were some fields to be crossed and a mozzie-infested forest before a fairly long road-walk. After the road-walk, there was another mountain to go over. Sweat was pouring off me and my chafing was getting very bad despite heaps of Vaseline. There followed another brief road-walk, at the end of which I had lunch at about 2:30pm leaning against a lamp-post on a quiet lane. Very pleasant and I nearly went to sleep. The final six miles involved negotiating another sweaty mountain to reach the Mount Wilcox North Shelter where I arrived at 6pm. The mozzies were bad, so I had a wash in the adjacent pond and donned long pants and shirt for protection before cooking dinner and erecting my tent. Too many mozzies to sleep in the Shelter. AMC ridge-runner, Liz, and boyfriend, Matt, arrived during dinner and we chatted while we ate. Matt had not been hiking overnight before, and Liz spent a lot of time explaining to him the rules of “leave no trace” camping, including not washing clothes in water sources (which I had clearly done, as my clothes were hanging out to dry near the stream) and going to the loo well away from water sources and the camp area. I got into bed at 8:30pm (mozzies getting bad) and did my diary before going to sleep at 9pm. During the night, I was woken by shouting. Matt had gone to the loo and got lost in the dark. He only found his way back after wandering around for a long time then resorting to shouting for help. Eventually, he woke Liz and me and Liz shouted in reply directing him back to camp. It was all a bit sad – both were very upset.
Appalachian Trail - Day 077
Date: Friday, 18 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 23.3
Daily Other Miles: 0.4 (0.2 to spring, 0.2 to Shelter)
Total AT Miles: 1487.9
Total All Miles: 1533.1
Weather: Very warm, humid, partly cloudy.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Omelette, sausages, fries, orange juice, ice-cream.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, candy bar.
Dinner: Noodles and vegetables, instant pudding.
Aches: Right foot, chafing.
Animals Seen: 2 small snakes, deer, grouse, chipmunks, squirrels.
People Seen: 5 AT-Thru-hikers (1 by sections), 2 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 6:30am to give myself eight hours sleep and packed up and left by 7:30am without breakfast because there was a diner just up the Trail. Although only two miles, it included a tough climb over Barrack Mountain. At the diner, I had a large breakfast before setting off for the remainder of what promised to be a hot humid day. Initially, there was a fair bit of road-walking as the Trail crossed back to the west bank of the Housatonic. As usual, I didn’t really mind the road-walk since I made better time and there were things to look at along the way. After the road, the Trail began climbing into the mountains and progress slowed. It was nice scenery in the forest, but marred by the hot humid weather which left me constantly sweating, and the bugs, especially mozzies, which tormented me. The sweat was washing off the repellent and I began to wonder if I would run out. Life wasn’t very pleasant. To top it off, the old blister next to the right big toe was hurting again and causing me to walk awkwardly. The views from the mountains were reduced by the heavy haze. I stopped for a late lunch at Sage’s Ravine, a beautiful shady glen. After that I pushed on another seven miles of slow progress over two mountains (Race and Everett) passing en route AT Thru-hikers, Stan and Linda Brooks, who were camped by the Trail. A Connecticut AMC ridge-runner at Sage’s Ravine had told me of a new Shelter, Glenbrook, which was my target. I eventually arrived there at 7:10pm to find already in residence “The Man Who Dares”, “Appalachian Al”, and Roy (all northbound, Roy by sections). They were really nice guys and we had a good chat. I was amused by “The Man Who Dares” wearing pyjamas (and slippers) to bed, and apparently being accompanied much of the time by his father in a Recreation Vehicle. I went to bed at 9pm, a little worried about the warm night and bugs.
Appalachian Trail - Day 076
Date: Thursday, 17 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 20.7
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1464.6
Total All Miles: 1509.4
Weather: Very warm, humid, overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Toast and jam, ice-cream.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, Snickers Bar.
Dinner: Snickers Bar, instant pudding.
Aches: Right foot blister again, hips chafed.
Animals Seen: Chipmunks, small snake.
People Seen: 2 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 8am and had some breakfast with Jayne and her parents. We took our time and left at 9:45am to drive me back to Cornwall Bridge from Granby. We arrived at 11am and, after going to the Post Office, I bought some ice-cream and chocolate milk before moving off on a warm humid day with approximately 20 miles to go to my target campsite. No fires allowed in Connecticut, so I knew I would be eating cold for dinner and hence could arrive late. The Trail started by following a lane up to the crest of a ridge and then, for the rest of the day, was fairly easy going through pretty forest – some deciduous, some conifer, with a pine needle-covered floor. Occasionally, there was some nice road-walking and, though there was pretty scenery, there were only a few views. It was very pleasant except for the mosquitoes – I’m afraid I’m going to run out of repellent. I had lunch at 3pm in a picnic area en route and then walked approximately 12 miles to Deans Ravine, one of the designated camp areas, where I arrived at 8:15pm. It was already getting dark as I hurriedly collected and purified water from the stream which flowed through the beautiful valley, ate a skimpy dinner, put up my tent and tarpaulin (40% chance of rain), and had a wash before getting into bed at 9:30pm. Updated diary and went to sleep at 10pm. A bit worried that the old blister between my right big toe and second toe is sore again. Spent a lot of the day pre-occupied with reaching the end, having decided the likely completion date will be August 21st and having spent a day at Jayne’s and seeing all the comforts I’m forgoing was unsettling. I think I was lucky the Trail wasn’t harder today.
Appalachian Trail - Day 075
Date: Wednesday, 16 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 0
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1443.9
Total All Miles: 1488.7
Weather: Very warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Porridge, scrambled eggs, orange juice.
Lunch: Cottage pie, ice-cream.
Dinner: ?
Aches: None.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: Some.
Journal:
Got up at 7:45am after a poor night’s sleep and tried to ring John Cederholm again. No answer. Tried to ring Barb. No answer. I then spent another 45 minutes working on my itinerary then tried calling John at work. He’s on holiday till next Monday. Then rang Barb and talked for a while. We decided she would book me a flight from Boston to Melbourne to arrive on September 1st. I also gave her some proposed meeting places and dates to give Bo. She sounded though she’ll be glad when I get home. After cooking myself breakfast (Jayne was out), I spent the morning planning, washing and drying out damp gear. Jayne returned at 11am and then left at 1pm to take her in-laws to Boston to fly home and collect her parents. I spent the afternoon eating, watching TV and doing chores. I then cooked my own dinner as Jayne wasn’t expected back until 9:30pm. After dinner, I finished chores and packed up ready for tomorrow’s departure. Jayne arrived home at 9:40pm and I spent a few hours talking to her jet-lagged parents and watching TV before going to bed at midnight.
Appalachian Trail - Day 074
Date: Tuesday, 15 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 23.9
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1443.9
Total All Miles: 1488.7
Weather: Very warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, Mars Bar.
Dinner: Cottage pie, vegetables, ice-cream and fruit.
Aches: Toes sore.
Animals Seen: Deer, snake, chipmunks.
People Seen: AT trail crew, 2 AT Hikers (southbound, by sections), 9 overnight hikers, 2 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and left at 7am with the Shelter’s other resident still in bed – he told me the night before he was an early riser. I’d disturbed him at both ends of the night! It was a beautiful morning and after a mile I passed into Connecticut. The Trail passed through some farmland and climbed a short sharp mountain which tired me. It then descended and crossed a bridge over 10 Mile River, a beautiful spot, and followed the Housatonic River through beautiful conifer forest. The Trail reached a road and I met a Connecticut Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) trail crew who were about to resume work on a relocation. We chatted for a while. There was then a 2½ mile road-walk before a couple of tough hills with views from the tops over the lovely Housatonic Valley. The hills were wearing me out and I was a bit worried that I’m losing condition. It also meant that I was losing time on the way to meet Jayne at Cornwall Bridge. Just before lunch, I met a couple of south-bounder AT Hikers in company with an AMC ridge-runner – a hiker paid by the AMC to monitor the Trail. I had lunch on a rock ledge giving a magnificent view before making a steep descent to the river. The Trail then more or less followed the river on a level path upstream to Cornwall Bridge. I arrived there at 6:10pm and was met by Jayne and her mother-in-law. We then drove back to their house at Granby, about an hour’s drive. We stopped at a supermarket and I shopped for the next few days. On arrival I met Jayne’s father-in-law. Both in mid-70s. We had a good dinner of cottage pie. I rang my cousin Peter in Boston and he said he still hoped to hike with me for a few days. I said I would ring back tomorrow night with some suggestions. I couldn’t get in touch with John Cederholm, a Boston friend who also had expressed interest in joining me for a few days on the Trail. After dinner, I watched TV and chatted with Jayne and her in-laws. Went to bed at 11:30pm, but had trouble sleeping after a bit of trip planning.
Appalachian Trail - Day 073
Date: Monday, 14 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 26.8
Daily Other Miles: 0.2 (spring).
Total AT Miles: 1420.0
Total All Miles: 1464.8
Weather: Warm, partly cloudy.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Tuna salad roll, donuts, ice-cream.
Dinner: Broccoli soup, stuffed cabbage, ice-cream.
Aches: 4th toe on left foot sore and right lower back.
Animals Seen: Deer, groundhogs, squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen: 2 AT Thru-hikers, 2 AT Hikers (southbound by sections), 4 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and left at 7am on a beautiful sunny morning with a big day ahead. Everything was wet from rain and it was cool in the forest though promising to warm up. The Trail was fairly easy going through the forest following ridges. After nine miles (some of which seemed a bit long), I reached Morgan Stewart Shelter and met “Timber Jack” and “Professional Radical” (Carol) together with two young couples who I think they were travelling with for two days. They were only having breakfast, having had a late rowdy night. They were very friendly and I’ll probably see them again after my planned day off at Jayne’s. I left and moved on 4½ miles to NY 55 where there was a large grocery. I didn’t need any provisions, but went in to get some lunch and came out with a big tuna salad “hero” (roll), two donuts, a pint of ice-cream, a pint of chocolate milk and a can of Coke, all of which I consumed sitting on the pavement watching the world go by – one of my favourite occupations. At 2pm, I set off for NY 22, 7½ miles away. The first 3½ were quite pleasant road-walking (as had the last 1½ miles to NY 55). Apparently the National Parks Service have purchased an old nuclear reactor site nearby (where there had been an accident) to re-route the Trail, but there was local opposition to that and the compulsory acquisition of other necessary land. After the road, the Trail again went through nice forest and across some attractive farmland before reaching NY 22 and the Quality Ridge Inn. I reached there at 4:45pm, and dinner wasn’t served until 5:30pm but, with 6 miles to go to the Shelter, I thought I could afford the time. I spent a pleasant 1½ hours sitting at the bar, drinking Coke, talking, eating and watching TV. Before leaving, I called Jayne and confirmed a 6:30pm pick-up at Cornwall Bridge tomorrow night. The six miles passed relatively easily (my feet are in much better shape) and I arrived at Wiley Shelter at 8:30pm. A southbound by sections AT Hiker was in residence and possibly asleep. I set up camp, had a wash and retired at 9pm, updating the diary by torchlight before going to sleep.
Appalachian Trail - Day 072
Date: Sunday, 13 July 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 18.8
Daily Other Miles: 0.3 (from Graymoors).
Total AT Miles: 1393.2
Total All Miles: 1437.8
Weather: Foggy, rain and drizzle, mild.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Fruit, eggs and sausages, orange juice, donuts.
Lunch: None.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Deer, squirrels, groundhogs, rabbits.
People Seen: 2 day hikers, some others.
Journal:
Got up at 7:30am and, after a pleasant breakfast with the monks and Bob and Jenny, left Graymoors at 9am. An interesting and worthwhile visit. The weather was poor, fog and drizzle, and I altered my schedule for the next three days so I could stay in Shelters. This meant an easy day today and a long one tomorrow. I decided not to try and ring Clio from the Monastery because it was probably too early for her to know if she was going sailing or not. I set off with a bit of indigestion from the enormous breakfast I had eaten. It was drizzling, but not enough to warrant donning my Goretex jacket. My feet were wet from yesterday’s socks and wet shoes and soon got wetter as I walked through sopping undergrowth. Despite the wetness it was pleasant walking in the mild weather. There were a few climbs, occasionally steep, but never that long, and no views because of the fog. The area, as for the last few days, was historic with traces of farming, mining, etc., dating from the American Revolution. There were lots of collapsed stone fences and the Trail occasionally followed old railway grades. You could feel the history of the place. The miles all seemed a little long, but I was doing it easy and, partly because of the indigestion, decided to forgo lunch (eating my perennial trail snack, “gorp” [sultanas, peanuts and M&Ms], instead), and reach my goal, Ralph’s Peak Hikers Cabin, a little earlier. There was supposed to be a bike there, and a store a mile away, and I would have a big dinner there. After climbing over Shenandoah, I descended to the well-marked cabin and arrived at 5:30pm. A note on the door said someone would open it at 6pm. I sat and started the diary and a very friendly guy from the Club turned up at 5:50pm. He told me the store was closed and there was nowhere to cook so I accepted that I was going to have a cold dinner but wasn’t too bothered. The Cabin was well-furnished and promised to be cosy. Soon after 6pm, thunder sounded and it began to rain heavily. I was glad I hadn’t stopped for lunch. I had a cold dinner and wrote the diary by candlelight.