In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.
Appalachian Trail - Day 087
Date: Monday, 28 July 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 22.7
Daily Other Miles: 1.2 (1.0 in Hanover, 0.2 to Shelter).
Total AT Miles: 1707.1
Total All Miles: 1756.2
Weather: Very warm, cloudy in the morning, sunny in the afternoon, humid.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Oats.
Lunch: Sub, fudge brownies, ice-cream, chocolate milk.
Dinner: Pizza, ice-cream, orange juice.
Aches: Feet a bit sore.
Animals Seen: Chipmunks.
People Seen: 1 AT Thru-hiker, 4 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Woke up at 5:30am after a good night’s sleep to hear it raining lightly outside. It was very tempting to roll over and go back to sleep. I got up and packed up using the shelter of my suspended groundsheet, but it had really more or less stopped. I ate the last of my oats for breakfast and set off at 7am through damp undergrowth. The Trail wound around through the wet dripping forest across pastures and through bogs, so it didn’t take long for my feet to become thoroughly saturated. I aimed to walk the 12 miles to West Hartford taking only short breaks and arrived at the general store there at about noon. I bought myself a big lunch. Another Thru-Hiker who had spent last night at Cloudland Shelter (I passed it mid-morning) turned up and we chatted briefly while we sat on the bench outside the store and ate. (He had hitched from Dalton to Killington because he said he had walked that section before.) I left at 1:10pm to walk the remaining ten miles to Hanover, the first town in New Hampshire, where I planned to resupply. The calories I ate for lunch seemed to give me a boost and the time passed fairly quickly as the day became sunny hot and humid. I stopped at Norwich Post Office en route and posted off some used maps. The Trail crossed the pretty Connecticut River where people were swimming and climbed into the pretty college (Dartmouth) town. There were lots of joggers out. I was undecided whether to stop at an Inn in town or keep moving, after buying groceries, to the next Shelter. I also had to ring Peter and John C. I felt that, after the last expensive motel, another Inn was not really justified. Also, if I stayed, I would probably call Barb in the morning – more expense. I walked through town and ½ a mile out the other side before I knew it. There I found a supermarket and did my shopping and then repacked it on a bench in the foyer. By this time it was 6:10pm, and I decided to have dinner, make the calls, and keep moving. I walked back into town – very swanky, full of students and beautiful people, and had a pizza in a shop. I made my calls and arranged to meet Marj (aunt) and Peter (cousin) next Friday night at Cascade Inn in North Woodstock and call John C from Pinkham Notch in a week. I then went to another supermarket, bought some ice-cream for dessert and another quart of orange juice (we’ll see what half a gallon of orange juice does for me tomorrow!), then walked out of town in the gathering dusk at 8:10pm. I arrived at Velvet Rocks Shelter at 8:45pm – almost dark. There was no-one there (it looked like a nice spot). I quickly set up the tent, ate the ice-cream, drank the orange juice, had a wash, hung everything up, and retired at 9:20pm to update my diary and sleep. Not such a bad day.
Appalachian Trail - Day 086
Date: Sunday, 27 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 17.9
Daily Other Miles: 0.4 (motel)
Total AT Miles: 1684.4
Total All Miles: 1732.3
Weather: Warm, humid, some rain, overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Orange juice, oats, omelette, chips, sausages.
Lunch: None.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, oats.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: 1 overnight hiker, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 9am after a good sleep and went and had a big breakfast before paying the bill and leaving at 10:50am. It wasn’t raining, but looked ominous. I had tried to ring John C twice without luck. I was going to try for about 20 miles and do without lunch since my last biscuits would be required for dinner as all wood would be too wet for a cooked dinner. The spirits were low as I left the comfortable indoors for the rough life. I still seemed to be very tired and felt the need of a day off but must keep moving to meet Peter. The Trail was very boggy and the undergrowth wet as I made my way around Kent Pond and, after a mile, I found the Inn I should have found last night. Too bad. There was some road-walking before a solid and wet climb up over a ridge and down the other side. In places, the Trail was flooded by the adjacent creeks. I divided the day into three six-mile sections and just plodded along trying not to think where I’d rather be, or about the weeks still to go. There were some very tough climbs and very wet trails (rivers) through the pretty and wet forest. At about 6pm it began raining very heavily and it looked like I would be setting up camp in the rain. There were no Shelters within range. The Trail had been re-routed so an expected spring wasn’t on the Trail. I only had a bottle and a bit of water. I reached the summit of Dana Hill and decided to stop at 6:40pm. Fortunately, the rain had all but stopped as I set up camp. I decided to get into bed and eat my dinner of biscuits and peanut butter and oats. I ate it while listening to some excellent church choral music (it was Sunday) on my Walkman. Lights out at 9pm. Not a great day. Maybe tomorrow will be better.
Appalachian Trail - Day 085
Date: Saturday, 26 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 21.4
Daily Other Miles: 0.4 (to Killington Peak)
Total AT Miles: 1666.5
Total All Miles: 1714.0
Weather: Very warm, humid, overcast, rain late.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Soup, veal, ice-cream.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Small snake, chipmunks.
People Seen: 2 overnight hikers, 8 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a bad night because of mozzies and heat. Felt tired straight away – already warm. Set off at 7am for a relatively short day which, however, incorporated Killington Peak (4250’). I decided to aim for Killington for lunch (there’s supposed to be a cafeteria on top), which meant a relatively short morning. However, the bad night’s sleep seemed to have pushed me over the edge into “over-trained” and, even with a light pack, I struggled all morning. It was foggy, so no views, but the higher altitude forest was pretty and “fairy-tale”. There was a “blue blaze” (side-trail) 0.2 miles very steep trail to the summit from the AT. I reached there at 1:30pm and struggled up the climb only to find the whole resort closed – presumably because of the fog and wind. I walked back down to the AT and Cooper Lodge where I met two girl day-hikers and a guy, Todd, who had started hiking the AT two days before me, but had finished at Harpers Ferry and was now doing a few of the northern sections. I had passed him at Rainbow Springs. He had travelled with Lisa for six weeks, and others, and could fill me in on how they were going. He said he would probably see me in the White Mountains and maybe Katahdin (northern end of the AT), from where he might be able to give me a lift to Boston. We chatted over lunch after which, at 2:30pm, I set off down the mountain. I planned to stop at the Inn on the Long Trail for the night and arrived there, very tired, at 4:40pm. Unfortunately, they didn’t provide evening meals so I decided to walk another two miles to another Inn. I was very tired and not pleased to lose the Trail in rough terrain at one point, costing me 15 minutes, and then to be hit by torrential rain just before reaching the road where the Inn was supposed to be. The Guide Book details were confusing and I got saturated before going into an expensive-looking motel where I took a room despite the $40 price tag. I ate a lot of peanuts in the bar before having a nice dinner. I rang my cousin, Peter, to say I was thinking of putting back my meeting with them in the White Mountains by one day. I had decided that, if the mountains or Trail got worse, I would have to work very hard to reach Franconia Notch on time. Better to give myself the rest, even if it means a day later at Katahdin. I watched TV and rinsed out my clothes. Running short of food and, given likely wet conditions tomorrow, I decided to sleep in and have a late breakfast (no early breakfasts at the motel) before heading off for a long afternoon. Turned off the TV at 12:15am.
Appalachian Trail - Day 084
Date: Friday, 25 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 25.3
Daily Other Miles: 0.2 (shelter)
Total AT Miles: 1645.1
Total All Miles: 1692.2
Weather: Hot, humid, overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, Quik
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter.
Dinner: Noodles, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Chipmunks.
People Seen: 15 day hikers, 8 overnight hikers, some others.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and left soon after 7am after spending some time itinerary planning. Figured out that I can probably last until Hanover before buying food if I stay at the Inn at Kent Pond. If so, it mans a lighter pack for the climb over Killington. It was a warm morning made a little bearable by a strong breeze. The Trail was high on a ridge for quite a long time. The vegetation is becoming conifer-dominated at altitude. I was in good spirits (lighter pack) and made good time. The Trail was occasionally rocky and boggy, but soft underfoot is good for the feet. The Trail passed Griffith Lake, an attractive pond, and later the even more attractive Little Rock Pond. In between, it gave excellent views from Baker Peak. Despite some fatigue, I pushed on to a late lunch at the pretty Greenwall Shelter before negotiating the last 4½ miles to Minerva Hinchey Shelter. Rain was forecast and it looked threatening, but held off. Yet another Shelter to myself. I wasted 20 minutes finding the spring (wrong directions in guide book) but, apart from that, washed and had dinner as normal and retired by 9pm. Just 500 miles to go. There’s a few mozzies around.
Appalachian Trail - Day 083
Date: Thursday, 24 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 24.0
Daily Other Miles: 0.3 (shelters)
Total AT Miles: 1619.8
Total All Miles: 1666.7
Weather: Very warm, humid, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Fettucine, instant pudding.
Aches: Right foot sore, right back chafed.
Animals Seen: Chipmunks.
People Seen: 10 overnight hikers, 4 day hikers.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a disturbed night. Woke at 11pm first because I was too hot, so applied insect repellent to legs and opened out my sleeping bag. The woken at 3pm by a porcupine chewing on the Shelter. It left when I shone the torch on it. I realised then that the rocks I had seen lined up along the inside walls of the Shelter were for throwing at porcupines! I left at 7:10am and passed the nearby Caughnawaga Shelter where it looked like a single female was in residence (bathing suit hanging up) but she was nowhere to be seen. I continued on quite a warm morning but nice in the green forest. My right little toe was still sore so, at my first break, I changed into my spare New Balance running shoes. They were an improvement, though made my feet hot. I made good time to the attractive Stratton Pond and had my morning break there. Couldn’t be bothered going for a swim. Continued on along the reasonable Trail through pretty woodland. Feeling a bit tired and thinking a lot about finishing. Passed a girl doing trail maintenance then a group of young hikers and their leaders just before I reached Spruce Peak Shelter where I had a late lunch at 3pm. The group turned up to stay for the night and I chatted to a few of them while eating and resting. I set off at 4pm to cover the remaining six miles to Mad Tom Shelter which included a solid climb up the 3260’ Bromley Mountain. Because of the humidity, it was hazy and the views were nowhere near as good as yesterday. Another mile brought me to the Shelter. The spring was almost dry, but I decided to stay and boil water. The Shelter faced west and I had a fine view of the sun setting in the haze. Went to bed at 9pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 082
Date: Wednesday, 23 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 23.2
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1595.8
Total All Miles: 1642.4
Weather: Very warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut, health bar.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: Right little toe and right foot sore.
Animals Seen: Porcupine.
People Seen: 4 overnight hikers, 5 day hikers, some others.
Journal:
To give myself eight hours sleep, I waited till 6am to get up then took longer than usual to leave because I still had to repack my muesli and gorp. I left just before 8am and set out on a beautiful day, even a little cool at the start. The Trail was fairly easy walking and I made good time despite my right little toe still hurting a lot and placing a lot of strain on my right foot as a whole. There was a steep rocky descent from Harmon Hill to VT 9 where I took my morning break next to a stream. As I set out up the mountain on the other side, I met a little man with paint brush and pail who was putting the blaze marks on trees for the Trail. The climb was steady but, for some reason, I was in better spirits today and it didn’t bother me and I still made good progress despite limping. I had a late lunch at 3pm with only a little over six miles to go to my target Shelter. It had warmed up, but was still quite pleasant walking in the forest – I guess a bit of altitude helped. At the top of Glastonbury Mountain (3750’), I climbed the old fire tower which gave absolutely superb views in every direction. Lots of mountains and the Green Mountains National Forest. It was great. It was then a fairly rocky descent to Kid Gore Shelter where I arrived at 6:50pm. Had it to myself. A porcupine visited after dinner. Decided to sleep without the tent – nowhere to pitch it – and hope the bugs aren’t too bad. Went to bed at about 9pm. Not a bad day.
Appalachian Trail - Day 081
Date: Tuesday, 22 July 1986
Daily AT Miles: 16.1
Daily Other Miles: 1.0 (to laundry and supermarket)
Total AT Miles: 1572.6
Total All Miles: 1619.2
Weather: Very warm, sunny, moderately humid.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Porridge, scrambled eggs.
Lunch: Burgers, fries, donuts.
Dinner: Fettucine, instant pudding.
Aches: Right little toe extremely sore.
Animals Seen: Chipmunks.
People Seen: 1 day hiker, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 7am and was still undecided whether to try and ring Barb or not. Had breakfast at the long table again and decided to ring, which I did at 8am. Found out I’m booked to fly out on August 30th, arriving in Melbourne on September 1st. I finished packing and left at 9am with the plan of hiking down to North Adams, seven miles away, to do laundry and shopping. Outside the Lodge, I met the two AT Thru-hikers from yesterday again. The trip down the mountain was hard on the feet but provided some good views and pleasant walking on a perfect day. I had to walk ½ a mile off the Trail to the laundry and supermarket, and left my laundry going and pack there while I did my shopping. I returned to the laundry and repacked my groceries while the laundry dried. After that, I walked down to a hamburger joint and had lunch. Met the two AT Thru-hikers again, and chatted while eating. I left at 1:45pm with 14½ miles to go to my planned Shelter, which meant I would be late. As the Trail climbed up into the mountains, my little toe on right foot began hurting a bit. I reached the Vermont border with the pain becoming severe for no apparent reason. There didn’t seem to be a blister. I tried a few things and continued walking, but painfully and with a limp. I decided that I would have to stop around 7pm and get my shoes off. I filled my water bottles at a spring and found a small campsite near a beaver pond and stopped at 6:50pm. The fire was slow and I didn’t get into the tent until 9:10pm. I was short by 4½ miles of my target and desperately hoping the toe would be better tomorrow, otherwise I would fall further behind. I hope it’s not an infection.