In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.

Appalachian Trail - Day 094

Day:  094
Date:  Monday, 4 August 1986
Daily AT Miles:  14.0
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (from Shelter)
Total AT Miles:  1815.2
Total All Miles:  1868.9
Weather:  Mild, windy, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli.
  Lunch:  Soup, Hershey chocolate.
  Dinner:  ?
Aches:  None.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen:  Many overnight and day hikers.

Journal:
We got up at 6am on what promised to be a good day for climbing and views.  We left at 7:15am for the first 3½ miles which were to be downhill to Crawford Notch before the big ascent up on to the Mount Washington massif (Presidential Range).  Peter was pretty worried about the climb.  We had to make reasonable progress to be at the AMC Lake of the Clouds Hut by 6pm for dinner.  My fears about our rate of progress were realised when Pete’s speed slowed dramatically on the steep climb from the Notch.  At our first break, I decided to take the food he was carrying plus the stove.  It seemed to do the trick and both his speed and spirits improved thereafter.  The rate of ascent wasn’t as great, either.  There were some superb views from the cliff-tops the Trail followed.  It was an excellent day for views.  From here, the Trail essentially followed a long spur towards the peak of Mount Washington (~6300’).  We reached the AMC Mizpah Hut more or less on schedule at 12:45pm and had lunch inside.  They had All-You-Can-Eat soup for $2 so I had that for lunch plus some chocolate.  We left there at 1:45pm for the remaining five miles.  We soon climbed above the tree-line and had more excellent views in all directions.  Pete was enjoying himself and we made good time, taking only one break before arriving at the Hut at 4:20pm.  It was very cold in the wind.  After a scare about not being able to get dinner, we checked in and went down to “the dungeon” (for backpackers) which wasn’t as bad as we’d been led to believe by Tom.  We then went up to the Hut dining area where 92 people were going to be served dinner. There were only six in the Hut “croo”!  It was lights out at 9:30pm, so we retired before then.  We were sharing “the dungeon” with Ruth, Bob, Ruth’s daughter and two others.

Appalachian Trail - Day 093

Day:  093
Date:  Sunday, 3 August 1986
Daily AT Miles:  13.7
Daily Other Miles:  0.3 (to shelter)
Total AT Miles:  1801.2
Total All Miles:  1854.7
Weather:  Warm, humid, partly sunny, fog in the morning.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Noodles, instant pudding.
Aches:  None.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, chipminks.
People Seen:  1 AT Hiker (by sections), many other overnight and day hikers.

Journal:
Got up at 6am after a restless night.  Fortunately, it didn’t rain (though it was quite windy) but lots of people climbed over me during the night to get to the loo.  I packed up and woke Pete at 6:30am.  We had breakfast and left at 7:45am after asking the campsite caretaker to book us into the AMC Lake of the Clouds Hut for tomorrow night.  The fog was clearing and we could see some of the closer mountains.  The Trail was slow going and we made our first stop at AMC Galehead Hut where we had peanut brittle (good!...all we could eat for 50¢!).  We then carried on along the Trail which was mostly through scrubby conifer.  We had lunch at an overlook near Zeacliff in improving weather before walking down to the AMC Zeacliff Hut (all the pancakes you could eat for 20¢!...good!).  It was then another five miles to our target of Ethan Ponds Shelter.  Peter had been moving better today (less uphill) and the last part of the Trail was easy walking with good views and we arrived at 6pm.  In residence already was southbound AT Hiker, Tom, and seven young people (kids, really) from some camp.  It was pretty noisy, but they all went to bed at 9pm, which was good.  Ten of us in the Shelter built for a maximum of eight was a bit of a squeeze, but we managed.  It rained a little, but not much, at dusk.

Appalachian Trail - Day 092

Day:  092
Date:  Saturday, 2 August 1986
Daily AT Miles:  10.1
Daily Other Miles:  0.8 (to Trail)
Total AT Miles:  1787.5
Total All Miles:  1840.7
Weather:  Warm, humid, partly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Eggs, sausages, muffins, pancakes.
  Lunch:  Chicken rolls.
  Dinner:  Fettucine, instant pudding.
Aches:  None.
Animals Seen:  None.
People Seen:  Many overnight hikers, day hikers and others.

Journal:
We got up at 8:15am and had breakfast in the dining room before messing around for a while buying odds and ends around town and leaving at 10:30am.  Marj had decided to walk the first few miles with us, so she bought some sandwiches and carried them.  Because of construction work, we had to park nearly a mile away from where the AT crossed US 3, so had to walk that distance along new trail before reaching the AT and beginning the ascent of Lafayette Mountain.  The climb was tough and relentless and Marj was falling behind, so we stopped earlier than our planned Liberty Spring and, after lunch, bade farewell to Marj who returned down the mountain.  She had decided to stay another night in North Woodstock.  We continued our ascent. Seventeen year old Peter also began to find the climbing hard and we had more frequent rests and travelled more slowly than I had anticipated.  We eventually reached Little Haystack Mountain and were greeted with excellent views.  The Trail was now above the tree-line and we had a magnificent walk along the exposed ridge as the Trail passed over a number of peaks including the 5249’ Mount Lafayette.  We were there at 5pm and still had four miles to our target of Garfield Ridge Campsite.  We pushed on with Peter becoming very tired and eventually reached there at 7:30pm just as a shower of rain passed through.  The Shelter was pretty full, but we squeezed in and I cooked dinner outside after the rain stopped.  We had the stove so didn’t have to worry about wet wood.  We retired at 9pm with me having to sleep right across the entrance of the Shelter hoping it didn’t rain and that I wasn’t stood on as some-one made a night-time excursion.

Appalachian Trail - Day 091

Day:  091
Date:  Friday, 1 August
Daily AT Miles:  8.6
Daily Other Miles:  1.0 (0.7 on road, 0.3 in town)
Total AT Miles:  1777.4
Total All Miles:  1829.8
Weather:  Warm, humid, mostly overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Fish and chips, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Chilli, veal, ice-cream.
Aches:  None.
Animals Seen:  Grouse.
People Seen:  6 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
I got up at 5:30am after a wet night, during which I woke up a number of times when rain came in through the mesh screen.  It was still drizzling when I woke up, so I moved things into the Shelter as quickly as possible and didn’t get much wet.  After putting on wet clothes and socks, I left at about 7am with 8½ miles to go to US 3 and Franconia Notch.  The going was very slow as the Trail ascended Mount Kinsman through sopping wet vegetation and up its hairy slippery rock faces.  It was very foggy and there were no views, but the scenery was attractive desolate alpine at the summit as I walked to North Kinsman before beginning the risky descent.  It took me 3¼ hours to reach the AMC’s Lonesome Lake Hut.  The AMC manages a number of huts on trails in the White Mountains which it operates for hikers who do not wish to carry camping gear and food.  They offer dormitory-type accommodation and meals, at a price.  I went in and rested for ½ an hour during which time I ate a couple of Hershey Bars, some chocolate cake, and some of the remaining pancakes (free) from the Hut breakfast.  The Hut looked like a good place to stay.  From there it took me just over an hour to walk the three miles down to US 3 and, after mistakenly walking ½ a mile north along the road looking for where the AT left on the other side, I hitched into North Woodstock.  I got a lift relatively quickly from a lady who lived in Lincoln and arrived at Cascade House, the guest house where I had arranged to meet Marj and Peter, at 12:30pm.  Marj had booked me in, and I had a shower before putting my laundry on and having lunch at a restaurant.  I spent the afternoon doing the washing, shopping, food repacking, drying out wet equipment, reading the paper, and eating.  During the afternoon, Ruth and Bob turned up (having cut out the Kinsmans Ridge section) as well as the four guys from last night’s Shelter – all very friendly.  I started a letter to Barb sitting on the verandah of the guest house at 5:30pm. When half-way through, Marj and Peter turned up and we spent some time sorting out gear before going out to a meal.  After dinner, we returned to the verandah to talk and eat our ice-creams for a while before retiring around 10:30pm.  It was raining steadily.  I had tried, unsuccessfully, to ring Barb a few times.  I finished the letter to her and went to sleep at midnight.

Appalachian Trail - Day 090

Day:  090
Date:  Thursday, 31 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  22.6
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (shelter)
Total AT Miles:  1768.8
Total All Miles:  1820.2
Weather:  Mild, overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding, Snickers Bar.
Aches:  None bad.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels.
People Seen:  4 AT Thru-hikers, 3 AT Hikers (by sections).

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a good night’s sleep (cool weather) and left at 7:201m.  It hadn’t rained overnight, but did for a while shortly after I started walking.  The first miles seemed to be short again, but who’s complaining.  I passed “Boater Bill” and caught Larry (who’d apparently walked past me while I was packing) who was talking to a southbound (by sections) AT Hiker. The country was again pretty, mossy woodland, and I was in good spirits for some reason.  I guess I knew I was going to make it to North Woodstock OK.  The ascent of Mount Moosilauke (4800’) followed, but it wasn’t as bad as feared though a bit endless and rocky in parts.  The summit was above the tree-line and, if it hadn’t been cloudy, would have provided good views. Nevertheless, it was enjoyable up there in the fog.  The descent was tiring and interminable.  For a long stretch it followed an attractive cascade and, in many places, steps had been attached to the slippery rock surfaces.  I reached Beaver Brook Shelter at the base and stopped there for lunch at 2pm.  After an hour for lunch, I crossed NH 112 in Kinsman Notch and began the steep ascent of Mount Wolf.  The going was slow along the crest with many rocky and boggy bits, and some relocated trail.  It took longer than I thought it would to eventually reach Eliza Brooks Shelter.  I arrived there at 6:50pm and found it already filled up with four AT Thru-hikers.  I decided to pitch a tent then tried to light a fire with damp wood but was unsuccessful, so resorted to biscuits and peanut butter.  Went to bed at 8:40pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 089

Day:  089
Date:  Wednesday, 30 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.6
Daily Other Miles:  0.9 (0.3 shelter, 0.6 restaurant).
Total AT Miles:  1746.2
Total All Miles:  1797.4
Weather:  Mild, overcast, fog and drizzle.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Cake and ice-cream, cookies.
  Dinner:  Noodles and sauce, instant pudding.
Aches:  None real bad.
Animals Seen:  3 snakes.
People Seen:  1 overnight hiker, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am after a good night’s sleep.  It had stopped raining.  I packed up and left at 7am, saying goodbye to the others who I’ll probably meet again in the White Mountains.  Everything was extremely wet and rain was forecast.  Fortunately, the Trail was easy and not overgrown.  A lot of it was on roads and woods roads and I made good time – I suspect the miles were short.  I climbed to the top of Smarts Mountain without a break.  It was very steep near the top and the Trail was extremely wet.  It was alpine-like at the top and quite cool and windy.  Fog prevented any views.  I descended down the difficult rocky and wet Trail and then had some more road-walking before the ascent of Mount Cube.  Another wet difficult ascent but, at least this time, I got occasional views through the blowing clouds – they were spectacular.  The descent was especially difficult and dangerous in the wet conditions.  I slipped and fell twice but suffered no damage.  I reached NH 25A at about 2pm and walked the ¼ mile to a small restaurant for lunch.  Unfortunately, pancakes were off at noon and they’d run out of apple pie, so I settled for two plates of cake and ice-cream and six big fresh cookies.  The manageress was very nice.  I left at 3:10pm to walk the remaining 7½ miles I’d planned.  More very wet Trail and hence feet.  Progress was a bit slower but at least more level.  It was through old forest, reclaimed farmland and past weekenders.  I stopped with three miles to go to find there’d been a relocation.  The distance was supposed to be the same but, of course, the new Trail was slow and I didn’t reach NH 25C till 6:40pm.  I crossed it, and then a stream, and found a good campsite on the other side amongst the pines.  I decided to try a fire despite everything being wet and was successful.  I set everything up as quickly as possible because of the forecast rain but, fortunately, it held off and it was a pleasant though hurried evening.  I went to bed at 8:50pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 088

Day:  088
Date:  Tuesday, 29 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  15.5
Daily Other Miles:  1.2 (0.2 shelter, 0.3 spring, 0.4 mistake, 0.3 shelter)
Total AT Miles:  1722.6
Total All Miles:  1772.9
Weather:  Warm, overcast, humid, rain later.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  Left heel sore.
Animals Seen:  3 snakes, chipmunks.
People Seen:  3 AT Thru-hikers, 4 overnight hikers, some others.

Journal:
Had a bad night’s sleep because of indigestion and a monstrous thunderstorm at 2am.  Tent didn’t leak.  Got up at 6am and left at 7:40am with plans to walk 23 miles.  Early progress through conifer forest was slow and I had to make a detour for water from a spring.  Rain threatened and was forecast, but it was hot and humid.  Once again, I felt enervated and found it hard going.  It’s hard to know whether it’s physical or mental.  I kept plugging away on the Trail, which was always fairly close to civilization, and passed through a number of boggy areas so my feet became wet again and my left outside heel became quite sore.  I began to ponder the merits of stopping early for a restful day in the hope my attitude would improve.  I would still be on schedule for North Woodstock for midday Friday as planned.  The Trail passed over Moose Mountain which was enshrouded in fog so no views.  On the descent, the radio warned that severe thunderstorms were on the way with heavy rain.  I decided to push on over the exposed Holts Ledge in the hope of getting to Trapper John’s Shelter before the bad weather hit.  I was tired (pack heavy), but kept going and passed over the Ledge where there was a fog-impaired view before descending to the Shelter.  In residence was Larry, a friendly AT Thru-hiker, and later arrived two overnight hikers then Ruth and Bob, also AT Thru-hikers. The overnight hikers slept in their tent and the rest of us in the Shelter.  I managed to get a fire going and cooked dinner, generally taking my time.  At about 6:45pm, it began raining steadily.