In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.
Appalachian Trail - Day 101
Date: Monday, 11 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 16.0
Daily Other Miles: 1.0 (0.5 relocation, 0.5 to Shelter).
Total AT Miles: 1944.5
Total All Miles: 2001.0
Weather: Cloudy and rain at first, clearing and warm later.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bars.
Dinner: Rice and shrimp creole sauce, pop tarts.
Aches: None bad (feet look mouldy).
Animals Seen: Grouse, squirrels.
People Seen: 24 overnight hikers.
Journal:
We got up at 5:30am to intermittent rain. The Trail did not look inviting, but we set out at around 7:15am during a lull in the rain. We first climbed Saddleback Mountain and reached the summit in a little under two hours. The weather steadily improved on the way up and actually cleared briefly as we reached the summit. John and I running up the last 100 feet or so in full packs to get some views must have looked amusing. We did get some views, which were better than nothing, of vast tracts of forests, mountains and lakes. For a while, the Trail followed the bare rocky crest, before descending. En route, we climbed up the North Peak and Saddleback Junior, both demanding, before following an easier, though still boggy, ridge. It began to rain a little at 11:45am, 15 minutes before we reached our planned lunch stop at Poplar Ridge Lean-To. There we ate lunch and talked to the “born-again” “Wayfaring Man” who was hiking parts of the AT, and a mother and son hiking team, both knowledgeable on mountain climbing. We left there just before 1pm with 7½ miles to go to our planned stop of Spaulding Mountain Lean-To, but conscious that there was a new “relo” (trail relocation) which purportedly added miles and was tough going. We met a number of hikers headed towards Poplar Ridge Lean-To for the night and we joked that our target shelter would probably again be full of French-Canadians. The “relo” was hard going, but paralleled a beautiful waterfall and some lovely brooks as well as passing through pretty forest. To our surprise, we reached the Lean-To turn-off at 4:50pm and, despite a very rough trail, reached the Lean-To at 5:00pm. It was full of French Canadians! We had a good dinner then rested amidst the babble of French voices. John found it a bit wearing, and it certainly wasn’t quiet. We went to bed at 8:45pm as the noise gradually subsided.
Appalachian Trail - Day 100
Date: Sunday, 10 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 22.3
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1928.5
Total All Miles: 1984.0
Weather: Warm, humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bars.
Dinner: Noodles and sauce, pop tarts.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Squirrels, grouse.
People Seen: 3 overnight hikers, 9 day hikers, some others.
Journal:
We got up at 5:30am and left about 6:45am with the daunting prospect of over 22 miles in front of us on the boggy Maine trails. Fortunately, there were no major mountains on our route for the day. We set off in foggy damp conditions and first climbed to the fairly bare summit of Beamis Peak but couldn’t really see anything. The Trail then descended over a series of knobs until it reached Beamis Stream. It was too wide to rock-hop across and we both ended up just ploughing through it. By this time the weather was clearing and after our steep ascent to ME 17, we had a great view over the lakes, forests and mountains to the west. We only stopped for a short time to admire the view because we were conscious of the distance we still had to go. The Trail levelled out a little, though still gradually ascending, and was often boggy, slowing us occasionally. John saw a moose, but I missed it! John stepped up the pace in the better going parts, and I hung on. We reached a lovely beach on the north-east end of Long Pond and we both washed our socks and I went for a lovely swim during the 40 minutes we stayed there. We then left to walk another five miles to the Little Swift River Pond campsite where we planned to have a late lunch. The Trail continued to be boggy and, at one point, newly clean from my swim, I slipped on a root and fell sideways into some lovely black mud, dirtying my whole left side. We reached the Pond around 3pm and spent 45 minutes eating and resting. We then moved off through more deciduous forest and boggy trail with the intention of breaking the remaining six miles into two three-mile sections. However, we missed the rocky ledge supposedly marking the halfway point, and walked all the way to ME 4 leaving us only 1½ miles to go. We were pleased that it looked like we were going to reach the Shelter at Piazza Rock at around 7pm – an hour earlier than last night. There were about five cars parked at the trail-head and, as we climbed towards the Lean-To through the forest, we heard a loud screech of tyres and then two big bangs of a car crash. Probably some of the parked cars. We decided we wouldn’t be able to do anything, so didn’t return to the scene. We were very pleased to reach the Lean-To at 7pm and find no-one else there (though there was a care-taker in a tent about 100 yards away). We washed and had dinner, congratulating ourselves on having an empty shelter, when a father and son hiking team turned up, very tired, at 8:15pm. We chatted with them and the care-taker, who brought us some cookies, before retiring around 9pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 099
Date: Saturday, 9 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 20.0
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1906.2
Total All Miles: 1961.7
Weather: Warm, humid, mostly overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink, sub, ice-cream.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter.
Dinner: Cheese Florentine, pop tarts.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Grouse, squirrels.
People Seen: 20 overnight hikers, some others.
Journal:
Got up at 6am and left at 7:25am hoping that it would only take two hours for the for the five miles down to the road where I was supposed to meet John. The going wasn’t too bad, and I arrived there 1½ minutes ahead of schedule. John was impressed. He was waiting there with his father and they drove me the eight miles into Andover where I resupplied and bought a sub, a quart of orange juice, and a pint of ice-cream. We drove back to the Trail and, after a quick re-pack, set off with 15½ miles to go at 10:45am. The first six miles to Hall Mountain Lean-To were covered in 2½ hours and we stopped there for lunch. The Trail wasn’t too bad, but was becoming more boggy. After lunch, our progress seemed to be much slower though it was hard to know whether it was because we were slower or because the miles were long. We descended steeply into Sawyer Notch, then had a tough climb up and down a mountain, then another big ascent to the 3600’ mountain of Old Blue. Unfortunately, the fog was thick and there were no views, but at least the rain had stopped. We were both tired and still had three miles to go. It went very slowly as we crossed bog after bog and didn’t reach Elephant Mountain Lean-To until 8:10pm. It was already fairly dark and we were disappointed to find the place crowded with a French-Canadian camp group and several other hikers. There was only room for one more in the Shelter, so John slept there and I put up my tent while John cooked us some dinner. Within and hour we were in bed.
Appalachian Trail - Day 098
Date: Friday, 8 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 19.4
Daily Other Miles: 0.3
Total AT Miles: 1886.2
Total All Miles: 1941.7
Weather: Warm, humid, overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, 2 health bars.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Grouse, squirrels.
People Seen: 1 AT Thru-hiker (southbound), 3 overnight hikers, 1 other.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am with the prospect of a long hard day through the Mahoosucs so as to be within range of my rendezvous with John tomorrow morning. I was already doubting the wisdom of my schedule. I set out a bit before 7am and climbed up on to Goose Mountain. I was rewarded with fantastic views in all directions. Vast forests, some lakes, and peaks poking through the clouds. All could be seen from the bare summits. Rocks were slippery and the muddy slopes treacherous as I continued north towards Mahoosuc Notch. The descent was hair-raising. On reaching the Notch, I entered the supposed toughest mile on the Trail. It involved scrambling over, around, and under huge rocks which had tumbled to the bottom of the gorge some time past. Near the bottom, the temperature was distinctly cooler and in crevasses could be seen snow and ice. I took just over an hour to negotiate the extremely strenuous stretch, then had to climb the Mahoosuc Arm of Old Speck Mountain. It was a tough climb and no view at the top because of fog. Progress was very slow as I pushed on to Old Speck Pond and the Shelter there for a 2pm lunch. There was a French-Canadian hiker there having a day off to dry some wet gear. She was an artist from Montreal and very friendly and I felt more than a little encouraged to stay for the night. However, I needed to press on. The Trail then climbed steeply up Old Speck Mountain (no views again because of fog) before plunging steeply into Grafton Notch – the end of the Mahoosucs. It was getting late, and I was very tired but, after a brief rest,, started climbing the next mountain in my path, Bald Pate. I crossed the summit soon after 7pm. It was a barren forbidding place in thick fog and I didn’t hang around. The last few miles took longer than I expected and it was fairly dark by the time I reached Frye Notch Shelter at 8:40pm. There was no-one there, although there was some discarded camping gear around, and the very loud thunderstorm that arrived at the same time as I did, lit up the place spookily. I had a quick cold dinner by candlelight before retiring at 9:30pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 097
Date: Thursday, 7 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 18.8
Daily Other Miles: 1.3 (1.0 to Gorham, 0.3 to Shelter).
Total AT Miles: 1866.8
Total All Miles: 1922.0
Weather: Warm, humid, overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Cornflakes, eggs, burger, brownies.
Lunch: Gorp.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Squirrels.
People Seen: 1 AT Thru-hiker, 20 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and packed and left by 6:15am without having breakfast. After ½ and hour walking, I reached US 2 and began walking and hitching towards Gorham. I soon got a lift which dropped me off at the town Laundromat at 7am. I put my laundry on and rang Bo and arranged to send suggested rendezvous details to her mother’s in Salem. I also tried to call Bruce, but he wasn’t going to be there for another 1½ hours. I went to an adjacent restaurant for a big breakfast before going to the supermarket to do my shopping. After that, I rang Bruce again, sent a card to Ray and Marilyn, ate some brownies and drank a quart of chocolate milk before walking out of town and beginning to hitch. I soon got a lift and began walking on the AT again at 10:40am. I was now in the Mahoosucs and still had 17½ miles to go. The Mahoosucs are supposed to be the toughest range on the Trail. The first few miles were pretty easy as the Trail climbed to the ridge. There were some views, but it was foggy/hazy. It began to rain steadily for a while and I decided to keep walking to the Gentian Pond Shelter for a late snack and give lunch a miss. En route, I passed Dan, Chuck and Arletta, and caught “Lumberjack”, another AT Thru-hiker. The Shelter was full of people and I sat in the entrance talking to some of them. The scenery from the Shelter was dramatic. They thought I was silly to go on the six miles to Carlo Col Shelter when it was already 4:30pm, but I had to meet John C in a couple of days and was confident I could get there in daylight, despite the Trail being slow because of the mud, rocks, and steep ascents and descents. I reached the Shelter and was pleased to find only three people there – Bob and Patty, and Wes. I repacked my Gorham-purchased food by torch and candle before eating a cold dinner and going to bed at 9pm. I was now in Maine.
Appalachian Trail - Day 096
Date: Wednesday, 6 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 18.4
Daily Other Miles: 0.2 (to Carter Notch Hut)
Total AT Miles: 1848.0
Total All Miles: 1901.9
Weather: Very warm, humid, mainly overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Fruit, oats, French toast, sausages.
Lunch: Stew.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, brownies.
Aches: Chafing in crutch.
Animals Seen: 2 small snakes, squirrels.
People Seen: 3 AT Hikers (by sections), 4 overnight hikers, 8 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 6am so I could try calling Barb and Bo Cocks before breakfast then make a quick getaway on what promised to be a tough 20 miles over the Carter Range to US 2 and a hitch into Gorham for the night. Bo was out, and Barb didn’t answer. I packed, woke Pete, and we went across to the 6:45am breakfast. I ate a lot and it was good. Pete then went out to the highway to catch his bus back to Boston. We said a short goodbye and I then tried to call Barb one more time and this time got her. We chatted for over 20 minutes. I think she’s ready for me to come home. She also said Bruce B (one of my colleagues at Syntec) was trying to get hold of me to do something for them in the US prior to my return. I left Pinkham Notch just before 8am and began the very tough climb up to the 4000’ level on Carter Ridge. Fortunately, this section of the AMC trails has less people on it, although I did meet a number of people heading to Pinkham Notch from the AMC Carter Notch Hut, six miles along the Trail. I got very tired hiking on the rugged Trail, but enjoyed the views and walked non-stop to Carter Notch Hut. It was a very pretty spot next to a couple of lakes. The Hut boys were very chatty and gave me two full bowls of stew for nothing. I decided to call it lunch – it had taken me three hours to hike the six miles from Pinkham Notch, making US 2 look doubtful by dusk. I left at 11:45am and began yet another very steep and tiring ascent to Carter Dome (4800’). The Trail continued to be very tough and slow but, despite feeling very tired, I just kept plugging away. The views were good and I was in good spirits. I stopped on a rock ledge with terrific views near Imp Shelter for afternoon tea before pushing on for the last six miles to Rattle River Shelter. The Trail was becoming slightly faster walking. I arrived at the Shelter at 7:30pm after descending from Carter Ridge and met three elderly AT Hikers – Dan and Chuck and Arletta. They had done Georgia to Harpers Ferry last year and were doing Harpers Ferry to Maine this year. They were very friendly and Dan gave me some brownies (his wife had visited them at the Shelter earlier) to accompany my biscuits and peanut butter dinner. I’d decided it wasn’t worth walking the extra 1½ miles to US 2 and hitching into Gorham since it would be too late to do anything and just cost me money. An early start tomorrow, since I’ve got to cover sufficient miles to meet John C on Saturday morning.
Appalachian Trail - Day 095
Date: Tuesday, 5 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 14.4
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1829.6
Total All Miles: 1883.3
Weather: Cool up high, windy, partly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Porridge, pancakes.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, Hershey Bars.
Dinner: Soup, chicken and vegetables, custard.
Aches: None.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: Many.
Journal:
Got up at 6:30am and packed up before going up to the dining room for breakfast at 7am. It was a big breakfast (people kept giving me extra) and we talked with Ruth, Bob and others. As always, everybody was impressed with the Thru-hikers. We left soon after 8am for the 1½ mile climb to the Mount Washington summit which is very developed (Barb and I had been there before). I planned to ring Barb from there but, despite trying for an hour, had no luck. She must be away for the night. A ranger let me into the Post Office and I picked up a couple of letters. Because of hanging around for the phone calls to Melbourne we didn’t leave the summit until after 10am, which was later than planned. By this time, fog had closed in but we’d had excellent views on the way up. The Trail followed the cog railway and we saw three trains. As we went down, the fog cleared and we again had excellent views. The trail followed the northern spur of the Presidential Range which was above the tree-line and although rocky and slow gave great views. It was an ideal day for travelling this route. It took us about three hours to walk the six miles to the AMC Madison Hut where we stopped for lunch. Ruth and Bob were there again. We had lunch and left at 2:15pm, giving us 3¾ hours to cover the six miles to the AMC Pinkham Notch Camp, where we were booked for the night, in time for dinner at 6pm. It took us a slow scenic hour to cover the first mile and the next two miles of mainly steep descent weren’t much faster. We re-entered the forest and found that we had further to go than we had thought. The last three miles were covered in a mad rush through pretty forest and we arrived at Pinkham Notch at 6:15pm and were hurried in late for dinner, which was good. After dinner, we checked in, showered and spent some time in the lounge drinking Cokes and me trying to ring the Cocks’ and Cederholm’s to arrange meetings further up the Trail. Peter was sore and tired, but seemed to have enjoyed himself.