In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.
Appalachian Trail - Day 108
Date: Monday, 18 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 16.6
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2068.4
Total All Miles: 2126.4
Weather: Mild, raining in the morning, overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Burgers, fries, ice-cream.
Dinner: Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding, Mars Bar.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Squirrels.
People Seen: 7 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5am and left at 6:20am after it had rained heavily during the night and was forecast to rain again during the day. I had 10½ miles to do by 11am to meet the Cocks’ family as arranged. It seemed to be an easy task, but the rough Trail and wet slippery conditions slowed progress considerably. After an hour it began to rain steadily and soon I was soaked through. The forest was mossy and pretty, but cloud and rain prevented any views. I eventually reached the St Regis Paper Company Logging Road, where I was to meet the Cocks’, in light rain and 55 minutes late. They weren’t there, but there seemed nothing to do but wait. I sat on a bridge in the drizzle and ate my gorp, wet, but not unhappy. After 30 minutes, the Cocks’ arrived. It was good to see them all. They suggested we drive into a nearby town and eat at a restaurant out of the rain, so I hid my pack and joined them (still soaking wet) in their Volvo. We drove about 18 miles to Brownville Junction where we found a really nice diner and had a very pleasant hour chatting and catching up on news – me still in my raincoat. At about 2:30pm, we left and they drove me back to the Trail where I resumed walking at 3pm and they set off for the long drive back to Boston. It was still over 13 miles to go to my target Shelter, but there was one six miles away so I decided to go there non-stop and see how the time was. It had stopped raining, but everything was soaking wet and a number of streams had to be forded. There was also a new “relo”, which slowed things a little, but I reached the Shelter, Carl Newhall, at 5:20pm to find Jerry and another hiker there already. It would be too late to try for the next Shelter, so I decided on an early night.
Appalachian Trail - Day 107
Date: Sunday, 17 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 22.6
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2051.8
Total All Miles: 2109.8
Weather: Warm, very humid, partly sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Eggs, pancakes, orange juice.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: 10 overnight hikers, 5 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
I got up at 6:15am and after breakfast (big!) left Monson at about 7:40am. Geoff and Jerry left with me and we all did the long road-walk out of town followed by a climb up on to a ridge on new trail. The going was slow, but the forest was pretty and the Trail passed a number of attractive lakes. Geoff dropped behind. The Trail passed by Little Wilson Falls which were very pretty and followed by the first ford of the day. The Trail then dropped off the ridge back onto a road and we had about five miles of road-walking, some of it in hot sun on a very humid day. We reached the point where the Trail left the road and immediately had to ford Long Pond Stream. We had lunch on the opposite bank at about 3pm while socks and feet dried, before leaving at 4pm to climb up 2000+’ Barren Mountain in very hot conditions. There were some good, but hazy, views on the way up. Once over the peak, the Trail descended and I reached Cloud Pond Lean-To at about 6:15pm. It only had a dirt floor, but was in a very attractive setting by a lake. Jerry arrived shortly after me, and Geoff at about 8:15pm. It had begun to rain at about 7:45pm, and got heavier. I blew out my candle soon after 9pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 106
Date: Saturday, 16 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 9.0
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2029.2
Total All Miles: 2087.2
Weather: Some rain, mostly fine.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, eggs, toast, orange juice.
Lunch: Burger, fries, ice-cream.
Dinner: Steak, vegetables, cake, ice-cream.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: None.
People Seen: 2 AT Thru-hikers, 1 AT Hiker (southbound, by sections), 5 overnight hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 5am and packed and ate quickly and left at 6:15am, just after a brief shower of rain. It was very gloomy. I decided to just walk the nine miles into Monson non-stop and hopefully get there early enough to ring both Marj and Barb. The Trail through the forest was mainly on old logging tracks and was wet and boggy, but there were long sections on the road where I could keep the pace going. I got into the outskirts of Monson, on a big lake, at about 9:15am and immediately found Shaw’s Boarding House, where I planned to stay. I went in and the diminutive operator, Keith (and his wife, Patty), told me I was in time for breakfast and could make my calls from their phone. I checked in, had my big breakfast, rang Marj (ticket had arrived) and Barb before having a shower. I then went downtown, collected my mail and did my shopping. Among others at the hostel were Jerry (who I had hiked with in New Jersey, and who was apparently waiting in Monson for me to catch up) and “Shutterbug” (Geoff). We went down to the only restaurant in town for lunch and I read my mail. It included a letter fromSyntec painting a less-rosy picture of the job they were proposing to me. I was a bit annoyed, but not surprised. During the afternoon I ate, watched baseball on TV, read the paper and did my laundry. Also in residence was Bob Barker, an MS sufferer, and an insufferable bore. After dinner I went for a walk around town with Jerry and Geoff before returning to watch TV until retiring about 10:30pm. During the day, Bo had rung to say they would meet me on Monday for lunch.
Appalachian Trail - Day 105
Date: Friday, 15 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 27.2
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 2020.2
Total All Miles: 2078.2
Weather: Mild, overcast.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Moose, weasel (?).
People Seen: 1 AT Thru-Hiker (southbound), 10 overnight hikers, 2 day hikers, some others.
Journal:
Got up at 4:30pm and packed up in the dark, putting everything in garbage bags in preparation for the big crossing. After breakfast, I headed down to the river which was now much lower and covered with a patchy mist. Quite attractive. I carried a pole for support but, apart from some slippery rocks, the crossing was something of an anticlimax and, at its deepest, the water was only mid-thigh. On the northern bank, I rearranged some things and put on my shoes and socks before setting off on a long day of 27 miles. Fortunately, the first six miles were road-walking and I covered them in good time. The first of those miles took me through the little village of Caratunk where everybody seemed to be still asleep as I tip-toed through. I took my first break at Pleasant Pond Lean-To before the steep climb up Pleasant Pond Mountain. I didn’t bother taking the side-trail to the summit. The Trail descended the other side through deciduous forest and it was here I disturbed and saw my first moose. It trotted off into the forest. I continued to make good time and took my second break at a very pleasant spot on the shores of Moxie Pond. Then followed the ascent of Moxie Bald Mountain from the shoulders of which there were excellent views towards the bluish mountains in the distance. I had lunch at Moxie Bald Mountain Lean-To on the shores of pretty Bald Mountain Lake and chatted to a female school-teacher from Philadelphia and a southbound AT Thru-hiker. With weather reports indicating scattered afternoon showers, I walked the remaining seven miles to my target Breakneck Ridge Lean-To through mixed forest with plenty of bogs. Already there, with a fire going, was Gary, who was out for a few weeks shakedown in preparation for doing the AT next year. We talked a fair bit and I went to bed at 8:30pm. A big, but good, day. I was initially worried a bit about Gary, who seemed the Rambo-type with knives etc., but he loosened up after a while.
Appalachian Trail - Day 104
Date: Thursday, 14 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles: 16.8
Daily Other Miles: 0
Total AT Miles: 1993.0
Total All Miles: 2051.0
Weather: Mild, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: Lower right back chafing.
Animals Seen: Squirrels.
People Seen: 14 overnight hikers, some others.
Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and, after water-proofing various pack items with garbage bags for the coming Kennebec River crossing, left at 7:10am. It was going to be a beautiful day as I set out to try and reach the Kennebec, 17 miles away, by lunchtime. The Trail passed through pretty deciduous forest for most of the morning and also by three beautiful lakes. The second, East Carry Pond, was particularly beautiful, with a loon calling, and I took an early mid-morning break to enjoy the scene. It made me feel quite melancholy that the trip was nearing the end. After a break at Pierce Pond Lean-To, I pushed on to the Kennebec. The Trail was new and, although following an attractive large stream, was hard slow going. Just before reaching the Kennebec, I met an elderly couple coming the other way who’d just crossed the river by canoe. They said the river was running very high – too high to ford. Alice Ference, an AT Thru-hiker nearing her goal, drowned while fording the Kennebec last year, so I was a bit anxious about the dangers involved. I reached the river, more than 100 metres wide, at 2:45pm and found the two mid-river gravel bars, which were supposed to be above water for safe fording, beneath the surface. I was tempted to try the ford and assume I could swim pushing my water-proofed pack if too deep, but decided to leave that as a last resort for tomorrow morning. The river is supposed to be at its lowest at 6am (there’s a dam upstream making timed releases of water). It is possible to call in advance to arrange to be ferried across the river, but I didn’t really want to do that, having walked every step of the way so far. I had lunch and waited on the banks in the sun for 1½ hours to see if there was any change in the water level – there wasn’t – before walking inland 100 yards to a small conifer grove where I set up camp. There is a major road across the river. It is strange to contrast that normality with my life-risking struggle to go on first thing tomorrow morning. Around 5pm, two hikers (I think) began testing the water depth on the other side. The current was far too strong and the river too deep for them to go more than a few yards from the shore and they gave up. I had dinner early, made some preparations for tomorrow, and went to bed at 7:30pm.
Appalachian Trail - Day 103
Date: Wednesday, 13 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 18.8
Daily Other Miles: 1.0 (relocation).
Total AT Miles: 1976.2
Total All Miles: 2034.2
Weather: Mild, sunny.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Eggs, bacon, orange juice.
Lunch: Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
Dinner: Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches: None bad.
Animals Seen: Squirrels, grouse.
People Seen: 15 overnight hikers, 3 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
Got up at 7:40am and finished packing before going down to breakfast, which Jerry cooked. Two eggs and toast wasn’t really enough, but what could I say. After breakfast, Jerry gave me a lift back to the Trail for a dollar, and I was walking by 8:50am, which was good. It was a perfect day as I began the ascent of the Bigelow Range – the last big mountains before Katahdin. I was in good spirits and the climb wasn’t too tough. My pace was a little better than expected and I reached the west summit of Bigelow Mountain soon after noon and admired the fantastic views in all directions – lakes, forests, mountains, towns. I continued on over the eastern peak enjoying views all the way then descended into Safford Notch. The forest was very pretty in the mottled sunlight. There was a relocation which added a mile to the Trail, unexpectedly, however it passed through attractive mossy rocky forest and wasn’t too difficult. The Trail then climbed up on to Little Bigelow Mountain and I found a nice sunny spot on a flat rock with a view for a late lunch at 3pm. After lunch, the Trail descended from the Bigelow Range using another “relo” and offered some views. It then went through deciduous forest and some boggy areas. I reached Jerome Brook Lean-To at 6:30pm and found it empty. I had a wash and dinner without incident on a pleasant sunny evening and decided to take a chance and drink the water untreated, though the stream was at low altitude. Went to bed at 8:30pm and did my diary by candlelight.
Appalachian Trail - Day 102
Date: Tuesday, 12 August 1986
Daily AT Miles: 12.9
Daily Other Miles: 0.5
Total AT Miles: 1957.4
Total All Miles: 2014.4
Weather: Sunny, mild, windy.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli.
Lunch: Tuna sub, ice-cream.
Dinner: Chicken, salad, ice-cream.
Aches: Bruised thigh and elbow from fall.
Animals Seen: Grouse.
People Seen: 5 day hikers, many others.
Journal:
We got up at 5am in order to reach ME 27 and John’s father by 1pm. We did not have a good night because of the tossing and turning of the three boys in the shelter which rocked its flimsy floor. At one point, John said loudly “for crying out loud!”. I think they got the message. After a hurried breakfast and packing we left at 6:15am and returned to the new AT via the very rough side-trail then began our ascent of Spaulding Mountain. It was a crisp clear morning – a good day for hiking. Near the summit, we took a short side-trail to the peak and enjoyed some good views. From there we pressed on north-east past the side-trail to Sugarloaf Mountain where John was tempted to detour to capture another 4000’ mountain. We then descended gradually, then steeply, to the south branch of the Carrabasset River. On the way down, I slipped twice in quick succession breaking my watch strap the first time, and suffering some grazes and a bad thigh bruise the second. More care required. We had a short break a bit past the river and adjacent road before making the solid ascent of the twin-peaked Crocker Mountain. We made good time and got some good views on the way up and from the north peak where we had our second break. We left there at 11am, leaving us two hours, for the remaining five miles. We hoped to arrive exactly on time but, despite reasonable going, arrived at 1:10pm. We found John’s dad waiting for us as arranged and they drove me the five miles into Stratton and Widow’s Walk, an historic bed and breakfast place. We said our goodbyes and they headed for Boston. No-one was around, but notices invited me to sign in and select a room, which I did. After a shower, I walked up the street of the pretty town, put my laundry on and bought a sub and milkshake for lunch. I sent off a card to Vic, a mutual friend, as suggested by John, then collected the laundry and did my shopping before returning to the B&B, registering and writing a letter to Barb. I went to a nearby pub for dinner, then returned to the B&B, repacked my food and went down to the lounge for a while. Hosts, Jerry and Mary, lent me a set of pliers with which I repaired my watch band. At 9:30pm I returned to my room and listened to the radio while looking at my maps, planning my final days and writing up my diary. A call to Marj in Boston to determine if my air-ticket had arrived was not successful, so I decided to leave ringing Barb till Monson, by which time I might know for sure.