In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.

Appalachian Trail - Day 036

Day:  036
Date:  Saturday, 7 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.0
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  685.9
Total All Miles:  709.5
Weather:  Hot, very humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast: Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Two ham & salad sandwiches, fudge brownie, quart of ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding.
Aches:  Right foot numb, sweat rash.
Animals Seen:  Two tortoises, deer, chipmunk, groundhog.
People Seen:  Four AT Thru-Hikers, eight day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:00am and away by 7:20am on a day that promised to be tough.  My feet, particularly the right one, didn’t seem to have recovered from yesterday.  I decided that it would be sensible to take it steady and have a break every hour.  I would have liked to do 28 miles, but would be happy with 24 which would only leave 13 for tomorrow.  The Trail descended at first then passed through an undulating and fairly tiring section.  I met Debbie and Alan, AT Thru-Hikers camped on the Trail.  The Trail then wound around the side of a long ridge with tough inclines right to left.  It was very tough on my feet and it was hot.  This was followed by a tough climb to a rocky ridge (Cove Mt) and then slow progress along that pretty ridge.  Good views and a pretty Trail.  It ended at the jagged rocks known as the Dragons teeth and stopped for the views and a rest.  Stu arrived, having put in a big morning from Sarver’s Cabin.  There was a rocky descent to the road and the Catawba Grocery.  On arrival we found Charlie and Tricia (from Pearisburg) who had hitched in to collect a new pack.  I gorged myself on ice-cream, Coke and orange juice as well as sandwiches and fudge while sitting in the shade for an hour and chatting.  There was a hot slog up onto NorthMountain where I met “The Greenhorns” (Mike and Frank) who were having an easy day avoiding the heat.  It was rumoured they wanted to hike from Georgia to Maine without washing, but they denied it.  There was then a long walk along the fairly easy North Mt ridge but I was tired and hot and just wanted to reach water and camp.  Eventually the Trail began its descent and crossed a creek where I got water and camped on the Trail.  Stu and The Greenhorns camped nearby.  It was 7:45pm and I had a cold dinner and retired at 9:15pm.  It rained during the night, my feet hurt and the ground was rocky to sleep on.

Appalachian Trail - Day 035

Day:  035
Date:  Friday, 6 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  30.4
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  661.9
Total All Miles:  685.5
Weather:  Hot, very humid, rain in the morning, partly cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding.
Aches:  Both feet, very tired.
Animals Seen:  Two snakes, two tortoises, deer, turkey, chipmunks.
People Seen:  Two AT Thru-hikers (one southbound)

Journal:
Got up at 6:00am and away by 7:10am.  Spending less time treating feet. Stu a bit slower to start.  I wanted to see how far I could get so that I would have a chance of reaching Troutville on Sunday lunchtime and so have ½ a day off.  The weather was steamy and by the time I had climbed to Bailey Gap Shelter I was absolutely soaked.  From there, what looked level on the map was, but required constant boulder scrambling which was very tedious.  After the boulders I met Sonny Daze, a southbound Thru-Hiker, who I chatted to for a while.  He explained some confusing trail marking up ahead.  There followed a steep descent then and even longer steep ascent up to Big Pond Shelter in the rain.  It was extremely humid and there were lots of bugs out biting me on the ankles.  Although my shoes were not giving me blisters, the right one kept coming off and both kept swallowing my socks which was very annoying when the Trail was tough enough anyway.  After Big Pond Shelter, there was another long descent, a stretch through farmland and along a road, then a tough climb up to a ridge.  I met another black snake on the ridge as I struggled along trying to get the miles in.  Progress was slow along the ridge in the late afternoon sun.  It was very rocky in most parts, but enabled good views down to the right.  I reached the turn-off to Sarver’s Cabin (0.3 miles steeply down) after 24 miles and, although tired, decided to press on.  I eventually reached Niday Shelter at 8:50pm in the late evening gloom to find Jack, from NY, already in bed.  I hurriedly washed and ate cold by candlelight before getting into bed at 10:30pm.  There were a lot of bugs in the shelter and my feet were sore so I didn’t have a very good night.  A new ThermaRest mattress would be nice (the present one has a puncture).  My first, and maybe last, 30+ mile day.

Appalachian Trail - Day 034

Day:  034
Date:  Thursday, 5 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  19.1
Daily Other Miles: 1.5
Total AT Miles:  631.5
Total All Miles:  655.1
Weather:  Very warm, humid, partly cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, scrambled eggs (6!), orange juice.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  Feet very tired in new shoes.
Animals Seen:  Dogs, black snake, chipmunks, turkey, cow.
People Seen:  Five overnight hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:45am after not a particularly good night’s sleep (too warm) and went down and rang Mark Binning from the call phone attached to the excellent Hospice (kitchen, bathroom, large living area and loft sleeping area in an old renovated barn). Fran had sent the shoes First Class after being told they would easily get there and bought New Balance instead of Nike.  Not exactly a success story.  Mark said they would probably make it out to Shenandoah National Park the weekend after next to see me for a picnic which will be good.  I decided to try the Post Office on my way out but otherwise to just trust the redirect I left yesterday.  Stu had bought a dozen eggs so we each gorged ourselves for breakfast.  I had a six-egg scramble preceded by muesli and followed by a quart of orange juice.  After breakfast I called the Post Office who said the shoes hadn’t come in but that the parcel post arrived around 9:15am.  I walked into town, meeting Stu on the way, and at the Post Office a guy offered us a lift back to the Trail.  No news at the Post Office, although they were helpful, so we set off.  The first few miles passed through trashy wasteland and along the highway before then messing around going up and down gullies prior to a long ascent.  The late start and slow progress made it doubtful that the Bailey Gap shelter (24 miles) would be reached.  We didn’t start walking until 9:35am.  Near the top of the first ascent I met a long black snake on the Trail that was in no hurry to get off despite being hit on the head by a rock.  I was travelling slowly in my new shoes and resting plenty.  On the top of the ridge the Trail was mostly flat going through thigh high undergrowth.  It was very warm and muggy and I was drenched in sweat.  I had a late lunch at SymmsGap Meadow which had good views.  I then pressed on going even slower than I thought and after a difficult 1½ mile rocky descent to Pine Swamp Shelter, arriving at 6:45pm, I found Stu there with a fire going and called it a day.  Feet very tired but no blisters from new shoes.  I think they’re half a size too big.  Went to bed at 9:15pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 033

Day:  033
Date:  Wednesday, 4 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  15.8
Daily Other Miles:  5.5 (2.5 Hospice, 3.0 shopping)
Total AT Miles:  612.4
Total All Miles:  634.5
Weather:  Warm, humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, Quik.
  Lunch:  Cheeseburger, fries, milkshake.
  Dinner:  Pizza, salad, ice-cream.
Aches:  Feet very tired and sore.
Animals Seen:  Two deer, chipmunks, dogs.
People Seen:  Six day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:10am and managed to get away by 7:20am.  On the map it looked like that, after a climb, the walking should be easy.  However, despite the fact that my feet felt better and I could stride out and the Trail was fairly easy, progress seemed to be slow.  It was, however, very pretty with lots of flowers, rocky bits, and occasional views.  I fell heavily at one point, when a rock I stepped on moved, but my pack absorbed most of the impact and, after lying there for a minute wondering what damage was done, I got up to find none apart from a sore arm.  Stu had headed off earlier at a fast pace and I didn’t expect to see him until Pearisburg.  The Trail climbed up steeply to an escarpment where it wended its way through thigh-high undergrowth.  It seemed that miles were longer than indicated in the guide.  The Trail came out onto a ledge overlooking the valley in which Pearisburg lay.  Stu was there having a rest.  He too was finding the miles long.  The Trail began to descend and I made a short detour to Angels Rest, a lookout over Pearisburg.  There I found the local Methodist retired men’s group and accompanied them for the remainder for the descent.  There were about seven of them.  They told me that a couple had been murdered at Wapiti II Shelter a few years ago!  The descent was slower than I expected and I didn’t get to the Pearisburg Post Office until after 3:00pm to find the running shoes Fran was supposed to have sent me hadn’t arrived.  My feet were very tired and I hurried out to the Catholic Hospice for AT hikers, 1½ miles out of town, had a shower, then quickly walked back into town.  I saw a small shop which sold KangaRoos running shoes, so mailed my boots back to Marj, then went and bought a pair – they were so good, the high school track team wore them according to the sales lady.  After checking both the supermarket and laundromat were open late, I went to the Dairy Queen and had a very late lunch before shopping and washing.  On the way back to the Hospice, I stopped at the Pizza Hut for dinner, but found myself very full.  Nevertheless, I bought a pint of ice-cream and ½ gallon of orange juice for later on my weary way home carrying washing and groceries and shoes and valuables.  Back at the Hospice I met brother and sister AT hikers, Charlie and Tricia, and spent until midnight repacking groceries, chatting, trying to ring Mark and Fran Binning and eating before going to bed.

Appalachian Trail - Day 032

Day:  032
Date:  Tuesday, 3 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.1
Daily Other Miles:  0.3 (Shelter)
Total AT Miles:  596.6
Total All Miles:  613.2
Weather:  Mild, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bars.
  Dinner:  Noodles and egg, pop tarts, chips.
Aches:  Both heels, right shoulder.
Animals Seen:  Two deer, cows, dogs.
People Seen:  About ten.

Journal:
Got up at 6:10am and away by 7:40am.  Decided not to bandage feet, just Mercurochrome and Vaseline.  Both heels were still very sore and I started slow.  The left Achilles just feels like old times!  The weather was cool, which was good, and the Trail was good and easy walking through forest along the ridge.  Occasionally it was possible to see down to the farms in the valleys. I started slow and Stu went ahead.  In late morning the Trail descended to a road which I walked along for about 4 miles. It was quite pleasant despite being chased by a few dogs.  The Trail then climbed steeply up over a hill then along another pretty ridge before descending towards another road through a lovely open field in the warm sun.  I found Stu having lunch in the sun and joined him.  Stu left early and decided to detour to a nearby grocery where he offered to get me a Coke and chips for dinner.  I carried on after lunch with ½ a mile of road walking before following a lovely easy graded ascent through glades, open forest and sometimes on pine needles.  My feet felt a little better towards the end though my right shoe now has a big hole in the sole. I reached Wapiti II Shelter at 5:40pm and had a cold wash in a nearby stream before a leisurely dinner on a lovely evening augmented by my Coke and chips.

Appalachian Trail - Day 031

Day:  031
Date:  Monday, 2 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  24.8
Daily Other Miles:  0.7 (0.3 Shelter, 0.4 Spring)
Total AT Miles:  573.5
Total All Miles:  589.8
Weather:  Very warm, humid, partly sunny in afternoon.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health drink.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, pop tarts.
Aches:  Both heels, front of feet.
Animals Seen:  Grouse, deer.
People Seen:  One day hiker, two overnight hikers, couple of cars.

Journal:
Got up at 6:10am and after treating feet and breakfast got away at 8:00am.  Ken and Lewis left at 7:00am but we caught them after about 6 miles.  The Trail was fairly easy going, being mainly downhill, and again was mainly on a ridge with occasional views down to the farms in the valleys.  It was again through forest with many flowers.  While stopped for my morning break (Stu had gone on ahead) at Jenkins Shelter (lots of mosquitoes) I met a day hiker who belonged to a club responsible for maintaining the Trail around Atkins.  We discussed the cow pastures.  They were having a work bee next weekend to try and improve it.  From the Shelter the Trail descended to Laurel Creek (everything’s laurel-something) and passed through boggy swampy country with many creek crossings.  At one I found Stu stopped for a wash and lunch as well as a father/son overnight hiker team.  I stopped too.  After lunch the Trail climbed steadily up on to the ridge againwith some of it sloping left to right hurting my feet a lot.  Most of the time it was good, however.  At a rest stop I accidentally knocked a water bottle off the track and it crashed off down the very steep hillside.  I didn’t bother chasing it as I could hear it crashing for a long time.  The Trail descended to cross a road and freeway (I-77).  Somewhere around here, Barb and I crossed the AT on our way to West Virginia.  I got a toot from a semi-trailer on the freeway as I crossed overhead.  From there it was a couple of miles uphill to the turn-off then ¼ mile to Helveys Mill Shelter which was very nice including a table.  Stu already had a fire going.  It was a long steep walk down to a stream for water that my sore feet didn’t appreciate.  At least I was a bit earlier than last night and had time for a leisurely dinner before retiring at 9:15pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 030

Day:  030
Date:  Sunday, 1 June 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.8
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  548.7
Total All Miles:  564.3
Weather:  Sunny, warm, humid.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Sausages and eggs, orange juice
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  Both heels sore.
Animals Seen:  Chipmunks, squirrels.
People Seen:  Four AT hikers (by stages), many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6:50am and had a shower and breakfast before leaving at 7:55am after saying goodbye to Stu, Patti and Greyhound (Tom, the Belcher in Hill Street Blues look-a-like) though I expected to see Stu again because he was keen to move a bit faster and was going to make for the same shelter.  The first few miles were very difficult as they followed cow-trodden paths through farms and were very boggy in parts.  Later the Trail left the farmland and began climbing gently onto the forested ridges.  Once again, many flowers were around – azaleas, laurels, rhododendrons. Both feet were sore – the left one now so because I was too cavalier in cutting away skin over a deep blister.  Stu soon caught me and I let him go because my progress was slow though we met many times during the day.  There were a few tough hills which made my feet hurt.  At about 1pm, we came out onto a country road and the Trail followed that for some time.  We passed pretty farm houses and waved and chatted to a few of the friendly inhabitants.  We stopped for lunch in a picnic area before negotiating a long hill up to Chestnut Ridge.  On the crest of the ridge the trees disappeared and there were good views in the late afternoon haze of surrounding ridges.  The guidebooks told us that there was no water at Chestnut Knob Shelter so we stopped at a spring 1.8 miles before the shelter and filled our water bottles and bags.  They were heavy and made it a long slog uphill (gradual) to the shelter.  When we arrived (Stu first) two other hikers, also northbound, were in residence.  There was Ken (~60) and Lewis (~45), the latter suffering from a withered left shoulder and arm which made it hard for him to carry a pack.  We got a fire going after our 7:30pm arrival and managed to cook dinner while chatting to Ken, who was interested in our trip and had hiked about half of the AT.  He promised to send us a carved boot if we notified him we had finished the AT.  Bunk space in the old stone cabin on top of the ridge was limited and I slept on the table and didn’t have a real good night when we retired at 9:30pm.  Ken and Lewis went to bed earlier and Ken snored.