In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.

Appalachian Trail - Day 076

Day:  076
Date:  Thursday, 17 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  20.7
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1464.6
Total All Miles:  1509.4
Weather:  Very warm, humid, overcast.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Toast and jam, ice-cream.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, Snickers Bar.
  Dinner:  Snickers Bar, instant pudding.
Aches:  Right foot blister again, hips chafed.
Animals Seen:  Chipmunks, small snake.
People Seen:  2 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 8am and had some breakfast with Jayne and her parents.  We took our time and left at 9:45am to drive me back to Cornwall Bridge from Granby.  We arrived at 11am and, after going to the Post Office, I bought some ice-cream and chocolate milk before moving off on a warm humid day with approximately 20 miles to go to my target campsite.  No fires allowed in Connecticut, so I knew I would be eating cold for dinner and hence could arrive late.  The Trail started by following a lane up to the crest of a ridge and then, for the rest of the day, was fairly easy going through pretty forest – some deciduous, some conifer, with a pine needle-covered floor.  Occasionally, there was some nice road-walking and, though there was pretty scenery, there were only a few views.  It was very pleasant except for the mosquitoes – I’m afraid I’m going to run out of repellent.  I had lunch at 3pm in a picnic area en route and then walked approximately 12 miles to Deans Ravine, one of the designated camp areas, where I arrived at 8:15pm.  It was already getting dark as I hurriedly collected and purified water from the stream which flowed through the beautiful valley, ate a skimpy dinner, put up my tent and tarpaulin (40% chance of rain), and had a wash before getting into bed at 9:30pm.  Updated diary and went to sleep at 10pm.  A bit worried that the old blister between my right big toe and second toe is sore again.  Spent a lot of the day pre-occupied with reaching the end, having decided the likely completion date will be August 21st and having spent a day at Jayne’s and seeing all the comforts I’m forgoing was unsettling.  I think I was lucky the Trail wasn’t harder today.

Appalachian Trail - Day 075

Day:  075
Date:  Wednesday, 16 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  0
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1443.9
Total All Miles:  1488.7
Weather:  Very warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Porridge, scrambled eggs, orange juice.
  Lunch:  Cottage pie, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  ?
Aches:  None.
Animals Seen:  None.
People Seen:  Some.

Journal:
Got up at 7:45am after a poor night’s sleep and tried to ring John Cederholm again.  No answer.  Tried to ring Barb.  No answer. I then spent another 45 minutes working on my itinerary then tried calling John at work.  He’s on holiday till next Monday.  Then rang Barb and talked for a while.  We decided she would book me a flight from Boston to Melbourne to arrive on September 1st.  I also gave her some proposed meeting places and dates to give Bo.  She sounded though she’ll be glad when I get home.  After cooking myself breakfast (Jayne was out), I spent the morning planning, washing and drying out damp gear.  Jayne returned at 11am and then left at 1pm to take her in-laws to Boston to fly home and collect her parents.  I spent the afternoon eating, watching TV and doing chores.  I then cooked my own dinner as Jayne wasn’t expected back until 9:30pm.  After dinner, I finished chores and packed up ready for tomorrow’s departure.  Jayne arrived home at 9:40pm and I spent a few hours talking to her jet-lagged parents and watching TV before going to bed at midnight.

Appalachian Trail - Day 074

Day:  074
Date:  Tuesday, 15 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  23.9
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1443.9
Total All Miles:  1488.7
Weather:  Very warm, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, Mars Bar.
  Dinner:  Cottage pie, vegetables, ice-cream and fruit.
Aches:  Toes sore.
Animals Seen:  Deer, snake, chipmunks.
People Seen:  AT trail crew, 2 AT Hikers (southbound, by sections), 9 overnight hikers, 2 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and left at 7am with the Shelter’s other resident still in bed – he told me the night before he was an early riser.  I’d disturbed him at both ends of the night!  It was a beautiful morning and after a mile I passed into Connecticut. The Trail passed through some farmland and climbed a short sharp mountain which tired me.  It then descended and crossed a bridge over 10 Mile River, a beautiful spot, and followed the Housatonic River through beautiful conifer forest.  The Trail reached a road and I met a Connecticut Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) trail crew who were about to resume work on a relocation.  We chatted for a while.  There was then a 2½ mile road-walk before a couple of tough hills with views from the tops over the lovely Housatonic Valley.  The hills were wearing me out and I was a bit worried that I’m losing condition.  It also meant that I was losing time on the way to meet Jayne at Cornwall Bridge.  Just before lunch, I met a couple of south-bounder AT Hikers in company with an AMC ridge-runner – a hiker paid by the AMC to monitor the Trail.  I had lunch on a rock ledge giving a magnificent view before making a steep descent to the river.  The Trail then more or less followed the river on a level path upstream to Cornwall Bridge.  I arrived there at 6:10pm and was met by Jayne and her mother-in-law.  We then drove back to their house at Granby, about an hour’s drive.  We stopped at a supermarket and I shopped for the next few days.  On arrival I met Jayne’s father-in-law.  Both in mid-70s.  We had a good dinner of cottage pie.  I rang my cousin Peter in Boston and he said he still hoped to hike with me for a few days.  I said I would ring back tomorrow night with some suggestions.  I couldn’t get in touch with John Cederholm, a Boston friend who also had expressed interest in joining me for a few days on the Trail.  After dinner, I watched TV and chatted with Jayne and her in-laws.  Went to bed at 11:30pm, but had trouble sleeping after a bit of trip planning.

Appalachian Trail - Day 073

Day:  073
Date:  Monday, 14 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  26.8
Daily Other Miles:  0.2 (spring).
Total AT Miles:  1420.0
Total All Miles:  1464.8
Weather:  Warm, partly cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Tuna salad roll, donuts, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Broccoli soup, stuffed cabbage, ice-cream.
Aches:  4th toe on left foot sore and right lower back.
Animals Seen:  Deer, groundhogs, squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen:  2 AT Thru-hikers, 2 AT Hikers (southbound by sections), 4 overnight hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and left at 7am on a beautiful sunny morning with a big day ahead.  Everything was wet from rain and it was cool in the forest though promising to warm up.  The Trail was fairly easy going through the forest following ridges.  After nine miles (some of which seemed a bit long), I reached Morgan Stewart Shelter and met “Timber Jack” and “Professional Radical” (Carol) together with two young couples who I think they were travelling with for two days.  They were only having breakfast, having had a late rowdy night.  They were very friendly and I’ll probably see them again after my planned day off at Jayne’s.  I left and moved on 4½ miles to NY 55 where there was a large grocery.  I didn’t need any provisions, but went in to get some lunch and came out with a big tuna salad “hero” (roll), two donuts, a pint of ice-cream, a pint of chocolate milk and a can of Coke, all of which I consumed sitting on the pavement watching the world go by – one of my favourite occupations.  At 2pm, I set off for NY 22, 7½ miles away.  The first 3½ were quite pleasant road-walking (as had the last 1½ miles to NY 55). Apparently the National Parks Service have purchased an old nuclear reactor site nearby (where there had been an accident) to re-route the Trail, but there was local opposition to that and the compulsory acquisition of other necessary land.  After the road, the Trail again went through nice forest and across some attractive farmland before reaching NY 22 and the Quality Ridge Inn.  I reached there at 4:45pm, and dinner wasn’t served until 5:30pm but, with 6 miles to go to the Shelter, I thought I could afford the time.  I spent a pleasant 1½ hours sitting at the bar, drinking Coke, talking, eating and watching TV.  Before leaving, I called Jayne and confirmed a 6:30pm pick-up at Cornwall Bridge tomorrow night.  The six miles passed relatively easily (my feet are in much better shape) and I arrived at Wiley Shelter at 8:30pm.  A southbound by sections AT Hiker was in residence and possibly asleep. I set up camp, had a wash and retired at 9pm, updating the diary by torchlight before going to sleep.

Appalachian Trail - Day 072

Day:  072
Date:  Sunday, 13 July 1986.
Daily AT Miles:  18.8
Daily Other Miles:  0.3 (from Graymoors).
Total AT Miles:  1393.2
Total All Miles:  1437.8
Weather:  Foggy, rain and drizzle, mild.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Fruit, eggs and sausages, orange juice, donuts.
  Lunch:  None.
  Dinner:  Biscuits and peanut butter, instant pudding.
Aches:  None bad.
Animals Seen:  Deer, squirrels, groundhogs, rabbits.
People Seen:  2 day hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 7:30am and, after a pleasant breakfast with the monks and Bob and Jenny, left Graymoors at 9am.  An interesting and worthwhile visit.  The weather was poor, fog and drizzle, and I altered my schedule for the next three days so I could stay in Shelters.  This meant an easy day today and a long one tomorrow.  I decided not to try and ring Clio from the Monastery because it was probably too early for her to know if she was going sailing or not.  I set off with a bit of indigestion from the enormous breakfast I had eaten.  It was drizzling, but not enough to warrant donning my Goretex jacket.  My feet were wet from yesterday’s socks and wet shoes and soon got wetter as I walked through sopping undergrowth.  Despite the wetness it was pleasant walking in the mild weather.  There were a few climbs, occasionally steep, but never that long, and no views because of the fog.  The area, as for the last few days, was historic with traces of farming, mining, etc., dating from the American Revolution.  There were lots of collapsed stone fences and the Trail occasionally followed old railway grades.  You could feel the history of the place.  The miles all seemed a little long, but I was doing it easy and, partly because of the indigestion, decided to forgo lunch (eating my perennial trail snack, “gorp” [sultanas, peanuts and M&Ms], instead), and reach my goal, Ralph’s Peak Hikers Cabin, a little earlier.  There was supposed to be a bike there, and a store a mile away, and I would have a big dinner there.  After climbing over Shenandoah, I descended to the well-marked cabin and arrived at 5:30pm. A note on the door said someone would open it at 6pm.  I sat and started the diary and a very friendly guy from the Club turned up at 5:50pm.  He told me the store was closed and there was nowhere to cook so I accepted that I was going to have a cold dinner but wasn’t too bothered.  The Cabin was well-furnished and promised to be cosy.  Soon after 6pm, thunder sounded and it began to rain heavily.  I was glad I hadn’t stopped for lunch.  I had a cold dinner and wrote the diary by candlelight.

Appalachian Trail - Day 071

Day:  071
Date:  Saturday, 12 July 1986.
Daily AT Miles:  13.7
Daily Other Miles:  1.8 (1.5 to café, 0.3 to Monastery)
Total AT Miles:  1374.4
Total All Miles:  1418.7
Weather:  Mild, overcast, raining mostly.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli.
  Lunch:  2 cheeseburgers, fries.
  Dinner:  Hamburgers, salad, fruit.
Aches:  Right knee sore.
Animals Seen:  Deer (including fawns), squirrels, chipmunks.
People Seen:  2 AT Thru-hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am after some showers during the night and almost immediately it began to rain steadily. I ate breakfast and packed up in the rain keeping things as dry as I could.  A few things got damp but nothing too bad.  It was the first tent pack up in the rain, so I suppose I have been lucky.  I set off along the muddy path (in some cases “river”) and steadily walked the six miles to Bear Mountain Inn passing over West Mountain and Bear Mountain en route.  No views because of the weather.  I arrived at the Inn at 10:10am to find the café, where I had planned to spend a few hours, closed.  I found a covered area in front of the toilets and spent 1½ hours writing my reply to Syntec’s job offer standing up at a wall and getting colder and colder.  Shivering, by the end.  I then walked, in the rain, up to the Post Office which was closed, then back to the now-open café where I had some lunch.  It was a big place, filled mostly with blacks whose picnics had been spoiled by the rain.  They were noisy and happy. After lunch, I went to the Inn lobby and left the Syntec letter with them.  I also called Clio, but she couldn’t give me a time when she could meet up, but wanted me to call back tomorrow.  She said she could perhaps make it Monday night.  I’ll probably ring her, though I’ve a few long days ahead of me.  I left the Inn at 1:10pm and walked through the picnic area and zoo (foxes, bears, raccoons) en route to the Bear Mountain Bridge which I used to cross the big Hudson River.  We had driven across it with Rod and Tracey just three months ago – seemed ages.  The rain had more or less stopped as I climbed up to the ridges on the north-east side – a landmark passed.  The Trail was reasonable, the weather cool, and I was in good spirits walking along, singing with my Walkman, and a short afternoon in prospect.  I arrived at Graymoors Franciscan Monastery at 4:30pm and was met by the kindly Father Bosco who arranged a room for me.  I had a shower and went down to dinner at 5:30pm where I met Bob and Jennifer, also AT Thru-hikers, who’d spent the day there because of rain.  Jennifer was walking around the Monastery in short shorts which I’m sure would have been a little distracting to the monks.  They told me about their encounter with the psycho “Fighter Pilot” on the Trail who had threatened to kill them and had harassed them for a few days in New Jersey.  Glad I missed him.  After an ample dinner, I went to my room and wrote a letter before going down to a small lounge to watch TV.  At 9pm I found a Michael Douglas movie called “Running” which was interesting but far-fetched.

Appalachian Trail - Day 070

Day:  070
Date:  Friday, 11 July 1986
Daily AT Miles:  13.9
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1361.5
Total All Miles:  1403.2
Weather:  Warm, humid, mostly cloudy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Cereal, eggs, toast.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  Feet a bit sore, right knee sore.
Animals Seen:  Many deer, 2 fawns, squirrels, chipmunks, small snake, grouse.
People Seen:  18 overnight hikers, 1 day hiker, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 8am and, after a shower and Pam-cooked breakfast, said good-bye to Pam and Aidan and left with Gordon at 9:20am. It was sad to be leaving so soon.  Another day off would have been nice and I think nthey would have liked me to stay.  Anyway, it’s good to know they’ll be moving to Melbourne to live next March.  Gordon drove me to the spot near Arden at the entrance to Harriman State Park where I left the AT on Wednesday night.  I started walking at 10:15am on a much more pleasant (cooler) day than recently.  That, plus my feet feeling improved and a day’s rest, had me in good spirits as I negotiated the gentle grades and occasional rocky bluffs of the Park.  There was little undergrowth and spring-like growth on the trees as well as evidence of gypsy moth.  It was pleasant forest.  I only planned to do 12 miles so that tomorrow night I would arrive at GraymoorMonastery.  I stopped for lunch at 1pm then pressed on to the William Brian Shelter, where I planned to spend the night, arriving at 4:30pm.  Unfortunately, the water well was dry and I had little, , so ended up pressing on another few miles and stopping by a pleasant stream in a lovely spot at about 6:10pm.  En route, the Trail passed over Black Mountain and I got superb views of the Hudson River which I will cross tomorrow – a landmark.  I had time for a leisurely dinner though time was spent boiling suspect water for tomorrow’s breakfast.  I went to bed soon after 9pm after a relaxing day.