In 1986, a few days after running the Boston Marathon, and following a year of touring the US and Canada in a campervan, I set off by train to realise a dream to walk the Appalachian Trail. I first heard about the Trail from the American wife of a work colleague in Melbourne a few years earlier and had since read widely about the trail. The Trail follows the crest of the Appalachian Mountains for more than 2,200 miles along the eastern side of the US. Starting in mid-spring, I followed the trail northwards from Springer Mountain in Georgia to its northern terminus at Mount Katahdin in Maine, finishing in the late summer. It remains one of the most meaningful experiences of my life, fostering an ambition for more such experiences and inspiring me to retire from work early enough follow through on that ambition. In 1986, only about 80 people each year completed the whole trail, but during that year National Geographic did a feature article on the Trail and its popularity increased dramatically.

Appalachian Trail - Day 105

Day:  105
Date:  Friday, 15 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles:  27.2
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  2020.2
Total All Miles:  2078.2
Weather:  Mild, overcast.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  None bad.
Animals Seen:  Moose, weasel (?).
People Seen:  1 AT Thru-Hiker (southbound), 10 overnight hikers, 2 day hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 4:30pm and packed up in the dark, putting everything in garbage bags in preparation for the big crossing.  After breakfast, I headed down to the river which was now much lower and covered with a patchy mist.  Quite attractive.  I carried a pole for support but, apart from some slippery rocks, the crossing was something of an anticlimax and, at its deepest, the water was only mid-thigh.  On the northern bank, I rearranged some things and put on my shoes and socks before setting off on a long day of 27 miles.  Fortunately, the first six miles were road-walking and I covered them in good time.  The first of those miles took me through the little village of Caratunk where everybody seemed to be still asleep as I tip-toed through.  I took my first break at Pleasant Pond Lean-To before the steep climb up Pleasant Pond Mountain.  I didn’t bother taking the side-trail to the summit.  The Trail descended the other side through deciduous forest and it was here I disturbed and saw my first moose.  It trotted off into the forest.  I continued to make good time and took my second break at a very pleasant spot on the shores of Moxie Pond.  Then followed the ascent of Moxie Bald Mountain from the shoulders of which there were excellent views towards the bluish mountains in the distance.  I had lunch at Moxie Bald Mountain Lean-To on the shores of pretty Bald Mountain Lake and chatted to a female school-teacher from Philadelphia and a southbound AT Thru-hiker.  With weather reports indicating scattered afternoon showers, I walked the remaining seven miles to my target Breakneck Ridge Lean-To through mixed forest with plenty of bogs.  Already there, with a fire going, was Gary, who was out for a few weeks shakedown in preparation for doing the AT next year.  We talked a fair bit and I went to bed at 8:30pm.  A big, but good, day.  I was initially worried a bit about Gary, who seemed the Rambo-type with knives etc., but he loosened up after a while.

Appalachian Trail - Day 104

Day:  104
Date:  Thursday, 14 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles:  16.8
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1993.0
Total All Miles:  2051.0
Weather:  Mild, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  Lower right back chafing.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels.
People Seen:  14 overnight hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 5:30am and, after water-proofing various pack items with garbage bags for the coming Kennebec River crossing, left at 7:10am.  It was going to be a beautiful day as I set out to try and reach the Kennebec, 17 miles away, by lunchtime.  The Trail passed through pretty deciduous forest for most of the morning and also by three beautiful lakes.  The second, East Carry Pond, was particularly beautiful, with a loon calling, and I took an early mid-morning break to enjoy the scene.  It made me feel quite melancholy that the trip was nearing the end.  After a break at Pierce Pond Lean-To, I pushed on to the Kennebec.  The Trail was new and, although following an attractive large stream, was hard slow going.  Just before reaching the Kennebec, I met an elderly couple coming the other way who’d just crossed the river by canoe.  They said the river was running very high – too high to ford.  Alice Ference, an AT Thru-hiker nearing her goal, drowned while fording the Kennebec last year, so I was a bit anxious about the dangers involved.  I reached the river, more than 100 metres wide, at 2:45pm and found the two mid-river gravel bars, which were supposed to be above water for safe fording, beneath the surface.  I was tempted to try the ford and assume I could swim pushing my water-proofed pack if too deep, but decided to leave that as a last resort for tomorrow morning.  The river is supposed to be at its lowest at 6am (there’s a dam upstream making timed releases of water).  It is possible to call in advance to arrange to be ferried across the river, but I didn’t really want to do that, having walked every step of the way so far.  I had lunch and waited on the banks in the sun for 1½ hours to see if there was any change in the water level – there wasn’t – before walking inland 100 yards to a small conifer grove where I set up camp.  There is a major road across the river.  It is strange to contrast that normality with my life-risking struggle to go on first thing tomorrow morning.  Around 5pm, two hikers (I think) began testing the water depth on the other side.  The current was far too strong and the river too deep for them to go more than a few yards from the shore and they gave up.  I had dinner early, made some preparations for tomorrow, and went to bed at 7:30pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 103

Day:  103
Date:  Wednesday, 13 August 1986
Daily AT Miles:  18.8
Daily Other Miles:  1.0 (relocation).
Total AT Miles:  1976.2
Total All Miles:  2034.2
Weather:  Mild, sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Eggs, bacon, orange juice.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bar.
  Dinner:  Macaroni cheese, instant pudding.
Aches:  None bad.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, grouse.
People Seen:  15 overnight hikers, 3 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
Got up at 7:40am and finished packing before going down to breakfast, which Jerry cooked.  Two eggs and toast wasn’t really enough, but what could I say.  After breakfast, Jerry gave me a lift back to the Trail for a dollar, and I was walking by 8:50am, which was good.  It was a perfect day as I began the ascent of the Bigelow Range – the last big mountains before Katahdin.  I was in good spirits and the climb wasn’t too tough.  My pace was a little better than expected and I reached the west summit of Bigelow Mountain soon after noon and admired the fantastic views in all directions – lakes, forests, mountains, towns.  I continued on over the eastern peak enjoying views all the way then descended into Safford Notch.  The forest was very pretty in the mottled sunlight.  There was a relocation which added a mile to the Trail, unexpectedly, however it passed through attractive mossy rocky forest and wasn’t too difficult.  The Trail then climbed up on to Little Bigelow Mountain and I found a nice sunny spot on a flat rock with a view for a late lunch at 3pm.  After lunch, the Trail descended from the Bigelow Range using another “relo” and offered some views.  It then went through deciduous forest and some boggy areas.  I reached Jerome Brook Lean-To at 6:30pm and found it empty.  I had a wash and dinner without incident on a pleasant sunny evening and decided to take a chance and drink the water untreated, though the stream was at low altitude.  Went to bed at 8:30pm and did my diary by candlelight.

Appalachian Trail - Day 102

Day:  102
Date:  Tuesday, 12 August 1986
Daily AT Miles:  12.9
Daily Other Miles:  0.5
Total AT Miles:  1957.4
Total All Miles:  2014.4
Weather:  Sunny, mild, windy.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli.
  Lunch:  Tuna sub, ice-cream.
  Dinner:  Chicken, salad, ice-cream.
Aches:  Bruised thigh and elbow from fall.
Animals Seen:  Grouse.
People Seen:  5 day hikers, many others.

Journal:
We got up at 5am in order to reach ME 27 and John’s father by 1pm.  We did not have a good night because of the tossing and turning of the three boys in the shelter which rocked its flimsy floor.  At one point, John said loudly “for crying out loud!”.  I think they got the message.  After a hurried breakfast and packing we left at 6:15am and returned to the new AT via the very rough side-trail then began our ascent of Spaulding Mountain.  It was a crisp clear morning – a good day for hiking.  Near the summit, we took a short side-trail to the peak and enjoyed some good views.  From there we pressed on north-east past the side-trail to Sugarloaf Mountain where John was tempted to detour to capture another 4000’ mountain.  We then descended gradually, then steeply, to the south branch of the Carrabasset River.  On the way down, I slipped twice in quick succession breaking my watch strap the first time, and suffering some grazes and a bad thigh bruise the second.  More care required.  We had a short break a bit past the river and adjacent road before making the solid ascent of the twin-peaked Crocker Mountain. We made good time and got some good views on the way up and from the north peak where we had our second break.  We left there at 11am, leaving us two hours, for the remaining five miles.  We hoped to arrive exactly on time but, despite reasonable going, arrived at 1:10pm.  We found John’s dad waiting for us as arranged and they drove me the five miles into Stratton and Widow’s Walk, an historic bed and breakfast place.  We said our goodbyes and they headed for Boston.  No-one was around, but notices invited me to sign in and select a room, which I did.  After a shower, I walked up the street of the pretty town, put my laundry on and bought a sub and milkshake for lunch.  I sent off a card to Vic, a mutual friend, as suggested by John, then collected the laundry and did my shopping before returning to the B&B, registering and writing a letter to Barb.  I went to a nearby pub for dinner, then returned to the B&B, repacked my food and went down to the lounge for a while.  Hosts, Jerry and Mary, lent me a set of pliers with which I repaired my watch band.  At 9:30pm I returned to my room and listened to the radio while looking at my maps, planning my final days and writing up my diary.  A call to Marj in Boston to determine if my air-ticket had arrived was not successful, so I decided to leave ringing Barb till Monson, by which time I might know for sure.

Appalachian Trail - Day 101

Day:  101
Date:  Monday, 11 August 1986.
Daily AT Miles:  16.0
Daily Other Miles:  1.0 (0.5 relocation, 0.5 to Shelter).
Total AT Miles:  1944.5
Total All Miles:  2001.0
Weather:  Cloudy and rain at first, clearing and warm later.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bars.
  Dinner:  Rice and shrimp creole sauce, pop tarts.
Aches:  None bad (feet look mouldy).
Animals Seen:  Grouse, squirrels.
People Seen:  24 overnight hikers.

Journal:
We got up at 5:30am to intermittent rain.  The Trail did not look inviting, but we set out at around 7:15am during a lull in the rain.  We first climbed Saddleback Mountain and reached the summit in a little under two hours.  The weather steadily improved on the way up and actually cleared briefly as we reached the summit.  John and I running up the last 100 feet or so in full packs to get some views must have looked amusing.  We did get some views, which were better than nothing, of vast tracts of forests, mountains and lakes.  For a while, the Trail followed the bare rocky crest, before descending.  En route, we climbed up the North Peak and Saddleback Junior, both demanding, before following an easier, though still boggy, ridge.  It began to rain a little at 11:45am, 15 minutes before we reached our planned lunch stop at Poplar Ridge Lean-To.  There we ate lunch and talked to the “born-again” “Wayfaring Man” who was hiking parts of the AT, and a mother and son hiking team, both knowledgeable on mountain climbing.  We left there just before 1pm with 7½ miles to go to our planned stop of Spaulding Mountain Lean-To, but conscious that there was a new “relo” (trail relocation) which purportedly added miles and was tough going.  We met a number of hikers headed towards Poplar Ridge Lean-To for the night and we joked that our target shelter would probably again be full of French-Canadians.  The “relo” was hard going, but paralleled a beautiful waterfall and some lovely brooks as well as passing through pretty forest.  To our surprise, we reached the Lean-To turn-off at 4:50pm and, despite a very rough trail, reached the Lean-To at 5:00pm.  It was full of French Canadians!  We had a good dinner then rested amidst the babble of French voices. John found it a bit wearing, and it certainly wasn’t quiet.  We went to bed at 8:45pm as the noise gradually subsided.

Appalachian Trail - Day 100

Day:  100
Date:  Sunday, 10 August 1986
Daily AT Miles:  22.3
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1928.5
Total All Miles:  1984.0
Weather:  Warm, humid, mostly sunny.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter, health bars.
  Dinner:  Noodles and sauce, pop tarts.
Aches:  None bad.
Animals Seen:  Squirrels, grouse.
People Seen:  3 overnight hikers, 9 day hikers, some others.

Journal:
We got up at 5:30am and left about 6:45am with the daunting prospect of over 22 miles in front of us on the boggy Maine trails. Fortunately, there were no major mountains on our route for the day.  We set off in foggy damp conditions and first climbed to the fairly bare summit of Beamis Peak but couldn’t really see anything.  The Trail then descended over a series of knobs until it reached Beamis Stream.  It was too wide to rock-hop across and we both ended up just ploughing through it.  By this time the weather was clearing and after our steep ascent to ME 17, we had a great view over the lakes, forests and mountains to the west.  We only stopped for a short time to admire the view because we were conscious of the distance we still had to go.  The Trail levelled out a little, though still gradually ascending, and was often boggy, slowing us occasionally.  John saw a moose, but I missed it!  John stepped up the pace in the better going parts, and I hung on.  We reached a lovely beach on the north-east end of Long Pond and we both washed our socks and I went for a lovely swim during the 40 minutes we stayed there.  We then left to walk another five miles to the Little Swift River Pond campsite where we planned to have a late lunch.  The Trail continued to be boggy and, at one point, newly clean from my swim, I slipped on a root and fell sideways into some lovely black mud, dirtying my whole left side.  We reached the Pond around 3pm and spent 45 minutes eating and resting.  We then moved off through more deciduous forest and boggy trail with the intention of breaking the remaining six miles into two three-mile sections.  However, we missed the rocky ledge supposedly marking the halfway point, and walked all the way to ME 4 leaving us only 1½ miles to go.  We were pleased that it looked like we were going to reach the Shelter at Piazza Rock at around 7pm – an hour earlier than last night.  There were about five cars parked at the trail-head and, as we climbed towards the Lean-To through the forest, we heard a loud screech of tyres and then two big bangs of a car crash.  Probably some of the parked cars.  We decided we wouldn’t be able to do anything, so didn’t return to the scene.  We were very pleased to reach the Lean-To at 7pm and find no-one else there (though there was a care-taker in a tent about 100 yards away).  We washed and had dinner, congratulating ourselves on having an empty shelter, when a father and son hiking team turned up, very tired, at 8:15pm.  We chatted with them and the care-taker, who brought us some cookies, before retiring around 9pm.

Appalachian Trail - Day 099

Day:  099
Date:  Saturday, 9 August 1986
Daily AT Miles:  20.0
Daily Other Miles:  0
Total AT Miles:  1906.2
Total All Miles:  1961.7
Weather:  Warm, humid, mostly overcast, some rain.
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli, health drink, sub, ice-cream.
  Lunch:  Biscuits and peanut butter.
  Dinner:  Cheese Florentine, pop tarts.
Aches:  None bad.
Animals Seen:  Grouse, squirrels.
People Seen:  20 overnight hikers, some others.

Journal:
Got up at 6am and left at 7:25am hoping that it would only take two hours for the for the five miles down to the road where I was supposed to meet John.  The going wasn’t too bad, and I arrived there 1½ minutes ahead of schedule.  John was impressed.  He was waiting there with his father and they drove me the eight miles into Andover where I resupplied and bought a sub, a quart of orange juice, and a pint of ice-cream.  We drove back to the Trail and, after a quick re-pack, set off with 15½ miles to go at 10:45am.  The first six miles to Hall Mountain Lean-To were covered in 2½ hours and we stopped there for lunch. The Trail wasn’t too bad, but was becoming more boggy.  After lunch, our progress seemed to be much slower though it was hard to know whether it was because we were slower or because the miles were long.  We descended steeply into Sawyer Notch, then had a tough climb up and down a mountain, then another big ascent to the 3600’ mountain of Old Blue. Unfortunately, the fog was thick and there were no views, but at least the rain had stopped.  We were both tired and still had three miles to go.  It went very slowly as we crossed bog after bog and didn’t reach Elephant Mountain Lean-To until 8:10pm.  It was already fairly dark and we were disappointed to find the place crowded with a French-Canadian camp group and several other hikers.  There was only room for one more in the Shelter, so John slept there and I put up my tent while John cooked us some dinner.  Within and hour we were in bed.